Tons of Oil in Cylinders

[Carhopper]

Hello, this is my first post here. I picked up a 1996 Speedster last week for a very good price but wasnt running. I started by doing a large single battery conversion because the smaller batteries were shot. Then the left starter bendix was sticking and I replaced it. The right starter was original and weak so I replaced it. So once I could engage the starters the engines would not turn. I removed the plugs and tons of oil shot out. Soon after that, after clearing fouled plugs multiple times I got them running. I assume they were running well as I reached 7000 RPM per engine and 47 MPH.

Now my question. I would like to do a premix conversion but I can't find a specific DIY. Some say that oil is required for the lower engine. Can someone help me with a positive experience and procedure?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The oil in the cylinders is from a defective crank shaft seal. Once they are bad, they allow oil to drain from the tank to the cylinders. The repair will require a new drive shaft. Not worth fixing it. Put a shut off valve on it and turn off during storage. The issue with going strictly premix is, the rave and gears will get less oil as that is what the oil tank is for. If it were mine, I would not do the premix thing.

 

[Carhopper]

Thanks, I have seen several posts where people go back to a tank so I'll take your advice. I also read a post that said a shut off valve didn't help, but there weren't any details. I haven't had it long enough to know how much oil leaks from weekend to weekend. If it's minimal, I won't worry about it until the end of the season and put in shutoff valves as you suggested. Can you recommend a valve and where to place them?

There is also the issue of fouling plugs. I'm going to put in some new plugs next weekend and see if they work without fouling for at least a couple of months until the season is over. I'm just going with the standard BR8ES, but I would purchase iridium or other types if that would help with fouling.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If a shut off valve didn't help, then they put it on the wrong line. Hundreds here have installed them and they absolutely work. I have a 4-tech ski, so I don't have an answer as to what valve to use. I'll try to search the forum for you.

It would need installed in the feed line that comes from the the tank to the engine.


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[Carhopper]

I still haven't seen where anyone has posted a shut off valve configuration. I extracted from the manual that the lines exiting the bottom of the oil tank are 12mm or around 1/2". Parts must be designed for use with oil. This is what I found for a relatively low price.

Smith-Cooper International 9121 Series PVC Ball Valve, One Piece, Inline, T-Handle, 1/2" NPT Female
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835RVYM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Spears 1436 Series PVC Tube Fitting, Adapter, Schedule 40, Gray, 1/2" Barbed x NPT Male
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HQ5M4I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[Carhopper]

Also, aren't there 2 lines? Do we only need a valve in one of them? I show 2 lines exiting the bottom of the tank.

 

[Upallnight]

Also, aren't there 2 lines? Do we only need a valve in one of them? I show 2 lines exiting the bottom of the tank.

There are two lines
1. for the oil pump
2. other is for the lower end of the crankcase for the rotary gear.

You will need to install a shut off valve on the line the lower end of the crankcase not the line feeding the oil pump.

I installed a shut off valve that I got from my local hardware store. Get a brass shut off valve because of the water environment, second choice would be one made of plastic.

 

[Carhopper]

OK, is that the left or right facing the tank from the rear of the boat and is 1/2" correct for the ID?

 

[Upallnight]

Line will be on the left as you face the rear of the boat from the seats. You will use barb fittings so they should accommodate a 1/2" i.d. lines.

 

[Carhopper]

Thanks a lot.

 

[BLAKWater]

Old thread I know, but I have what I think to be a legitimate question that I can't find answered on here anywhere.
I feel I have bad seals on mine as well. My question is really two part.

1. I've read where some say that if oil is coming out of both cylinders then it could be the RV shaft seal since it's unlikely that both inner crank seals would be bad. If it were only one cylinder then maybe inner crank seals. Thoughts?

2. Either way I intend to install a ball valve on the supply line as close as possible to the crankcase. But here is my real concern - why wouldn't you also want to install one on the return line as close to the crankcase as well? It seems to me that whatever oil is in the return line would simply bleed back down. Or could I put some sort of one way check valve on the return line? That might even be better

Thoughts?