To rebuild the supercharger, or not to rebuild? That is the question.

[dothadoo]

I have been reading several threads on these pre 2008 superchargers. I just sold my 2003 sportster 150 with the 155, and bought a 2007 Speedster 150, SC with 29 hours on it. It runs great, but as you know, it has the ceramic washers. I really would like to avoid any engine trouble or replacement in the future. Should I go ahead and have it totally rebuilt or simply get the washers done? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Just my opinion, since I don't have a SC motor.
The sooner you do preventive maintenance the better off you'll be.
I wouldn't trust the ceramic washers any longer then necessary. Even though is has only 29 hrs, it's also 5 years old now.
As the saying goes....spend $350 now or up to $3000 later.

 

[trapperjack1]

i found out about this washer deal at 80 hours
that was the last time i road it untill replacing
complete rebuild never looked back

 

[Andrew_lbreman]

I just did the washers and as long as you get everything tight, it is no problem. Now if you get inside and find the gear worn down, then sure go ahead and change it, but I did both of mine and I must say both of the gears and everything looked brand new except the clutch washers looked burnt. I even reused the ever difficult needle bearings. I put a little bit of 80-90 oil on a qtip, wiped it on the shaft and put the needles back on. But when I do it again, I am going to just spend the extra 15$ on the new bearings. just buy the tool kit and the clutches. If you want a little more breakaway pounds buy some new springs. I like S E N I C A power sports in maryland for parts. The guy is no cheat and ships quick. He will tell you what to do. Also use a impact wrench on the shaft nut while holding the shaft with a good wrench. I did have one break free and get sloppy once but when I used the impact I have put many hours since and have no problems. If you dont have an impact, go to a local style tire shop and float the guy 5 bucks to tighten it for you. It will literally take him 30 seconds and that way you know it is tight. also get riva cltuches, they are cheaper than seadoo and better.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Should I go ahead and have it totally rebuilt or simply get the washers done? Any advice is appreciated.

At only 29 hours on it, just change out the ceramic washers and enjoy it for the next 71 hours of operation (which could take a couple years). There's no point in rebuilding the entire thing with so few hours on it, especially with summertime upon us now. You can change the washers yourself in just an hour or two one evening, they're not especially difficult and plenty of places sell the tool kit with new steel slip washers including instructions.

- Michael

 

[Dennis]

I STRONGLY disagree with Andrew about using a impact on the s/c nut. Just clean the threads, apply a little red loctite and then torque the nut to 22 ft/lbs. The use of a impact is just asking for trouble.

 

[Andrew_lbreman]

I used medium locktight and it worked for about an hour. I had let it set for about 24 hrs prior to install and everything. I later used the impact and didnt blast them, but made them tighter and I have had no problems for alot of recent hours. However, I could see how it could possibly add pounds of breakaway pressure that may not be a good thing. Maybe using strong lock tight or maybe I did something wrong, but I used impact for both of my skis and have put 10-15 hours on them recently and have had no problems. Alot of that riding was at about full throttle for a 30-35 mile stretch down and back. We go for long rides and it hasnt been an issue yet. But getting a strong disagreement, I may also have to rethink the impact and check my breakaway pressure.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Wow! I didn't catch that... I agree with Dennis on this, NO impact wrench unless you just like playing russian roulette!

Red loctite, a bench vise, some decent SC holding tools, and a good torque wrench are your friends in this procedure! Screw this up and you will regret it $$$$$$. Also a torch, I had to heat the nut on mine to get the orginal loctite to break loose so I could remove the nut that red stuff is tough! After heating it a few seconds I was able to break the nut free no problemo.

Keep everything organized and in the correct order, it all has to go back on the shaft in the exact same order AND orientation it came off. Watch those tiny needle bearings inside the drive gear they like to fall out (suggest placing it on a white towel when you are ready to remove that drive gear from the shaft, just in case the bearings fall out so you won't lose any... put them back inside the gear with a dab of engine assembly grease to hold them in place if you have to, I did).

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

I used medium locktight and it worked for about an hour.

Use Red loctite, and clean the threads with some acetone before applying the loctite so there won't be any oily residue on them. Once the red sets up, it's VERY hard to break loose again.

You're probably wayyy too tight right now, no slip at all so it won't release pressure when you suddenly let off the throttle. I'm pretty sure that's a bad thing.

- Michael

 

[dothadoo]

I just did the washers and as long as you get everything tight, it is no problem. also get riva cltuches, they are cheaper than seadoo and better.

Are these the ones I need? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CWA4HA...e=395261&creativeASIN=B005CWA4HA&linkCode=asn
They are actually for the 2006-07 RXP RXT and GTX, but are they not all the same when it comes to the SC?

 

[dothadoo]

At only 29 hours on it, just change out the ceramic washers and enjoy it for the next 71 hours of operation (which could take a couple years). There's no point in rebuilding the entire thing with so few hours on it, especially with summertime upon us now. You can change the washers yourself in just an hour or two one evening, they're not especially difficult and plenty of places sell the tool kit with new steel slip washers including instructions.

- Michael

I found an old thread where you bought some washers and tools off of ebay. I believe you said you would invest in a better tool the next time. After some more hours, have you noticed anything good, bad or indifferent about them?

If I can really change everything out in a couple hours, that would be worth it to me, provided the SC isn't too hard to remove and reinstall. Are there any available PDF files to make sure I know how everything goes back together?

 

[Dennis]

What Michael said. A hot air gun will also soften the locktite for disassembly.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Ahhh! I have a hot-air gun too but didn't think to try that Dennis. Maybe next time. LOL!

There are much sturdier tools for the SC's available than the gold colored set I bought off Ebay, but weak as they were I was able to get the job done with them once I got that shaft nut loose (took heat to get it to finally come loose). Search Ebay and you should find quite a few choices... I'm not sure if the shaft diameter is the same on all the models of SC's SeaDoo has used over the years, best to get a washer set stated to be the upgrade for YOUR year model and if in doubt ask the seller!

I have no idea how hard it is to remove the SC from a SeaDoo Speedster 4-TEC engine... on the RXT PWC we have to undo the waterbox strap and slide the waterbox back about a hand-span to get enough space for the SC shaft to clear the engine crankcase, and 1 of the 3 SC retaining bolts is a SOAB to get at with a wrench! Arghhhh!

We had a bad drought here in Texas last summer, I only got to take my RXT out to the lake a few times and only put like ~5 hours on it the whole summer it sucked, lake and river water levels just plummeted around here 2011. All I can tell you is that my SC is still blowing air (reving it slightly with the seats off and a hand squeezing down on the DC to carb air hose, I can feel the air pressure in the hose go up as the engine is rev'ed up).

- Michael