jimmaki
Active Member
I'm going through a 1998 SPX and have run into a number of seized screw problems which can really slow you down as I imagine you alreadyknow. I finally managed to get all of them out but I'm wondering if I should use an anti seize lubricant to put it back together. On some of the "seized" screws I think it may just have been too much locktite used during initial assembly. My main concern is using s.s. screws which tend to gall and lock up without anti seize.
I realize it depends where the screws are, but is there anyone using antiseize as a matter of course during assembly? Or does thread locker seal the threads from water entry and corrosion? Many of these small screws don't have torque values in the shop manual, especially the small carb screws.
The last screw that I had problems with was the tiny phillips head that holds the needle seat in the carb. I could almost fee the head starting to twist off the stud. I couldn't get my hammer driver down in that small space. I plan to get an slender extension next trip out. Since I had all the rubber and plastic parts out of the carb except the o-ring around the needle seat I was replacing, I tried heating the area with a small soldering torch and was able to finally get the screw out. Some say the copper and/or aluminum in most anti seize compounds just adds another metal for the "battery" and can actually promote corrosion. I dunno ... that's why I'm asking before I put everything back together.
[EDIT] One more option I just remembered is using a good waterproof grease on the theads. I have a tube of Mercury 2-4-C with Teflon marine lube lying around for the boat. Anyone tried it on PWCs?
[EDIT 2] Man, I just had to drill out a screw on the other carb that holds in the check valve housing. What's amazing is I just had that same screw and it's brother out earlier in the week and while I ran the engine with that carb, the doo hasn't been in the water or near it, even a hose. Something is going on beside corrosion. I think I'm going to get out my miniature torque wrench or find miniature hex socket screws.
I realize it depends where the screws are, but is there anyone using antiseize as a matter of course during assembly? Or does thread locker seal the threads from water entry and corrosion? Many of these small screws don't have torque values in the shop manual, especially the small carb screws.
The last screw that I had problems with was the tiny phillips head that holds the needle seat in the carb. I could almost fee the head starting to twist off the stud. I couldn't get my hammer driver down in that small space. I plan to get an slender extension next trip out. Since I had all the rubber and plastic parts out of the carb except the o-ring around the needle seat I was replacing, I tried heating the area with a small soldering torch and was able to finally get the screw out. Some say the copper and/or aluminum in most anti seize compounds just adds another metal for the "battery" and can actually promote corrosion. I dunno ... that's why I'm asking before I put everything back together.
[EDIT] One more option I just remembered is using a good waterproof grease on the theads. I have a tube of Mercury 2-4-C with Teflon marine lube lying around for the boat. Anyone tried it on PWCs?
[EDIT 2] Man, I just had to drill out a screw on the other carb that holds in the check valve housing. What's amazing is I just had that same screw and it's brother out earlier in the week and while I ran the engine with that carb, the doo hasn't been in the water or near it, even a hose. Something is going on beside corrosion. I think I'm going to get out my miniature torque wrench or find miniature hex socket screws.
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