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Terrible vacation with my doo

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jammin777

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so i had the tps on my 99 seadoo gsx rfi reset last week at the nearby stealer. got to the camp ground for a few days of fun. NOT!
it was much worse than before! bad bog at take off it wouldn't get out of it's own way till i hit 4600 rpm and struggled to plane out then it would run good at higher rpm. after a bit i pulled the plugs and looked tan which i knew was not good so i reinstalled them proceeded to do a wot plug chop, nice mocha color, so i figured i ride a bit but was very hard starting so i gave up for the day.

day 2, having wife drive the trailer to the loading ramp, it took an act of congress to get her started so i could meet the wife at the loading ramp.
the first thing i did was take a compression reading on the trailer and the results are 125 psi per cylinder! not sure if my 30 year old gauge is right so i will borrow/ buy a quality one and recheck. Sooo i took the ski to another seadoo dealer 15 min from where i was camping to confirm if it was done right or not as my instincts told me it was done wrong from the first stealer and sure enough, it was all wrong!!! they didn't back off the throttle body all the way before zeroing it like i asked them to! at the dealer near my camp sight they took it in right away and let me hangout while they re reset the tps and confirmed that as it was set from the stealer no1 was only at 2.7 degrees! should have been set at 6-7 degrees or above at final reading! which can cause it to run lean! so the dealer no 2 reset it for me right this time in front of me and had them document on my receipt of the wrong setting so that i have a trump card to go back to stealer no1 that screwed it all up.
while i am was relieved that my hunch was right that the tps was off from the first stealer i am also very po'ed.
so i took her back to the lake and is a bit better but still a horrible bog at take off and lower to mid rpm. so i pulled over on a beach and rechecked the plugs, nice mocha color. so next i remove the rave caps and the raves move freely and also pulled the vac tube from the rave solenoid blowing by mouth to see if the raves responded against my hands on the bellows and checked out ok. still bog so i trailer it and put new plugs in clip the plug wires, still bog, Done! oh, and also checked for voltage,
12.9 while sitting and 13.3 while running 3000 rpm so that rules that out.
i'm thinking if my compression is really at 125 psi per hole, is why it is running like crap?
half the time while cruising at 30 mph then gun it it will bog and struggle then after a bit it will take off.

next when i recoup, i will pull the raves and have a look see at the cylinders for issues as well as re test the compression with a good gauge, if it is bad stealer no 1 has better watch out! if all is ok then i will simply demand my money back.
i will post updates as i get this sorted. keep in mind that i checked, rebuild and replaced everything questionable while i had it all apart last winter but i may be missing something, oh i also pulled the cover off the electrical box and was nice and dry with no corrosion or loose connections. engine was rebuilt by ses and tom installed and timed a new rotary valve.


any ideas and input please chime in! sorry for the long post and rant but please give input. thanks guys.
 
yep that's what i am afraid of. if that's really the case then season over:( and ship engine back to ses. if i remember right the old gauge worked well on my truck a couple years ago. i'm going to see if i can borrow one from a buddy of mine and recheck. mine is an old equus gauge from the 80's. any thoughts on getting the dealer to take some responsibility for not doing their job right? or am i screwed?
 
Sorry to hear of the troubles....I know you were looking forward to a good trip. Let's just hope the compression reads higher with another gauge and it's something minor. Keep us posted.
 
update: i borrowed i cornwell compression gauge and both cylinders read 140 psi! can it read 140 due to having only 8 hrs on it? i feel better but kinda bummed that it is only 140. but at least i can try and figure out the issue so i can hopefully retrieve the rest of the summer and give ses a call when the seasons over. that i am happy about:) so now what?
i have been running 87 octane non ethanol gas. i would try a higher octane but that's all that is available
 
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Maybe drain fuel and replace with fresh. Hopefully you don't have the grey tempo fuel lines on it...if you do you need to replace with new different ones. Also check the fuel/water separator and maybe replace.
 
Jammin I may be wrong and someone may correct me on this.... But with only 8 hours on it 140 may not be terrible, you may find that your compression will rise and settle closer to the 150 mark once you have the break in completely finished....
I had the same thing happen on my Ultra 150 while I was breaking it in, the compression numbers didn't settle at perfect until I had about 15 hours or so in it... Takes a while to settle those rings....
 
yea i wasn't sure if it would take a while longer to get the rings to seat in and if that's the case then i feel much better. lol! i will ck it again when i get more hours on it. thanks
 
No prob at all man! Let's hope it's works out for you like it did me.... If you coulda seen the look on my face when my very expensive Ultra motor fresh out of the crate, had a compression reading that was at the low end of the scale! I was ticked off needless to say... But after a nice break in the #s are right where they need to be [emoji7]
 
then you can imagine how i felt when i read 125 on my old gauge! my heart sunk! btw im a gonna throw that old gauge out! lol!
 
Ya I'd get rid of that gauge.....don't need any unnecessary panic attacks! Sent u a PM earlier.
 
Lol!!!!! I feel for ya man! And yup best chunk that guage now lol.... Before you forget it's bad and reuse it!
 
Well, I think if you can still see honing hatch marks in the cylinder walls by looking through the RAVE slots then 140PSI is nothing to worry about b/c if the hatch marks are still there the rings haven't seated.

It was running great in the water before the 1st dealer misadjusted the MPEM TPS values? Can they be put back to original and then just adjust the idle screw to bring the idle up to where it should be?

I kinda wonder if something's been wrong with it all along and the symptom has been low idle speed?

No alarms or faults on this thing, right? The reason I ask is b/c it seems like so many problems occur from getting one of the sensor connectors crossed to the wrong sensor.
 
Concerning compression here's another thought, are you using the compression tester fitting that's the same length as the sparkplug threads? If you use the short threaded fitting the reading will be lower due to the volume of the threaded hole that normally would be occupied by the longer fitting.

And, any leaks in your hose will cause the reading to skewed to the low side.
 
Was that engine recently rebuilt? I wonder if they do a leak down test when rebuilding them, as it sounds like you have a case leak (un-metered air entering the system)
 
Was that engine recently rebuilt? I wonder if they do a leak down test when rebuilding them, as it sounds like you have a case leak (un-metered air entering the system)

Any of the big three builders I know do a leak down test before the motor leaves their shop... Would be hard to warranty their motors without it.... Or very stupid to let them leave without doing one lol
 
Any of the big three builders I know do a leak down test before the motor leaves their shop... Would be hard to warranty their motors without it.... Or very stupid to let them leave without doing one lol

is ses one of them? that where i had mine built.
 
the giveaway that you have a bad gauge reading low is usually when both cylinders show the same low number. when you wear a motor out, or even if you lunch one, usually you get one really bad and one less bad reading, well apart from each other.

something to keep in mind before panic sets in thinking you roasted a brand new rebuild. the hard starting and low end bog could have something to do with your rotary valve clearance. We've had people put brand new sbt rotary valve covers and valves in with a new seal, only to find out the o-ring seal from sbt is too thick and causes too much clearance in the RV.
 
the giveaway that you have a bad gauge reading low is usually when both cylinders show the same low number. when you wear a motor out, or even if you lunch one, usually you get one really bad and one less bad reading, well apart from each other.

something to keep in mind before panic sets in thinking you roasted a brand new rebuild. the hard starting and low end bog could have something to do with your rotary valve clearance. We've had people put brand new sbt rotary valve covers and valves in with a new seal, only to find out the o-ring seal from sbt is too thick and causes too much clearance in the RV.
ses did the rebuild and tom installed a new rotory valve and stalled the cover so i have no idea but seems like he would have checked it all out. but it has crossed my mind. thanks.
 
Well, I think if you can still see honing hatch marks in the cylinder walls by looking through the RAVE slots then 140PSI is nothing to worry about b/c if the hatch marks are still there the rings haven't seated.

It was running great in the water before the 1st dealer misadjusted the MPEM TPS values? Can they be put back to original and then just adjust the idle screw to bring the idle up to where it should be?

I kinda wonder if something's been wrong with it all along and the symptom has been low idle speed?

No alarms or faults on this thing, right? The reason I ask is b/c it seems like so many problems occur from getting one of the sensor connectors crossed to the wrong sensor.
i had dealer no 2 re reset the tps correctly, no maint lights or codes. right now it idles 1550rpm in the water and will idle good once started just bogs badly at takeoff till i reach 4600rpm and get her up on plane. i plan on removing the raves and hopefully i will see the beloved x hatch hone marks lol! and yes i used the fitting on the compression gauge the same dept as the spark plug so good there. thanks for responding i really appreciate it.
 
Bogging (hesitation) is a sign of lack of fuel, this can be caused by a number of things such as a plugged injector, improper MPEM tune (Have to wonder: What did dealer #1 do(WRONG?), exactly?), air leak somewhere, incorrectly wired electrical sensor (connector wires crossed), weak fuel pressure.... On and on.

If it was running strong prior to the TPS "recalibration" and went to heck at that point or if it's had this problem all along remains unclear.
 
Bogging (hesitation) is a sign of lack of fuel, this can be caused by a number of things such as a plugged injector, improper MPEM tune (Have to wonder: What did dealer #1 do(WRONG?), exactly?), air leak somewhere, incorrectly wired electrical sensor (connector wires crossed), weak fuel pressure.... On and on.

If it was running strong prior to the TPS "recalibration" and went to heck at that point or if it's had this problem all along remains unclear.
fuel injectors replaced with new, what the dealer did wrong is they didnt close the throttle body all the way before resetting the tps. thats my guess as when i took it to dealer no 2 it they hooked the buds tool and before they adjusted anything it read only 2.7 degrees. it should have been more if it was done correctly an per spec after zeroing it then you turn the idle screw in until it reaches 6 to 7 degrees. before i took it to the lake it was only idleing at 1300rpm on the trailer so i tuned it up to 2100 rpm and when in the water it it is at 1550 rpm. so it really should have been more than the 2.7 degrees as stated earlier.

i know about the issue that 2 of the sensors could be easily crossed but that should have shown up way early on right? one iof them is the tps sensor but i forget what the other one is. at dealer no 2 when the finished the reset, we blipped the throttle while still hooked to the buds and the tps responded perfectly.

to clarify it had a small hesitation at first before any reset was done hence is why i took it to dealer no 1 hoping the reset would clear it but made it much much worse. and after reset no 2 it is still the same.
tonight after work i plan on removing the crank sensor to check for metal shavings. if i have time i'm going to pull the raves to see if i can see the cylinder condition. i need to see if i can find the adapters to make a inline fuel pressure test setup so i can verify that the new fuel pump is doing it's job.

question, having brand new spark plugs can they go bad after all the bogging? like overworking the resistors?
yes i use the NGK BR8ES set at 20 thousands according to spec in case you wondered. thanks for helping me brainstorm we'll get this figured out yet.lol
 
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