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Terrible vacation with my doo

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Did he give you the specs of their valve, or did he ask you to measure yours & then call him with your findings? I would think they already know what it should be. I am not pointing fingers, & it probably is just fine like they said, but it just has to be crossed off you list. You should pull it apart tonight to end our curiosity . :D

Do you have the manual pages on the procedure? Its pretty easy once you see what is being measured.
 
jammin777 said:
i'm not sure if i understand, are you saying wrong rv timing can contribute to compression reading?
Click to expand...

This was a kind of joke really, the guy targets 140psi and we know that's not factory so why should we trust his RV is any better?

Maybe he can build a decent 951, but I'm beginning to wonder about that too.
 
68ragtop said:
Did he give you the specs of their valve, or did he ask you to measure yours & then call him with your findings? I would think they already know what it should be. I am not pointing fingers, & it probably is just fine like they said, but it just has to be crossed off you list. You should pull it apart tonight to end our curiosity . :D

Do you have the manual pages on the procedure? Its pretty easy once you see what is being measured.
Click to expand...
i just emailed him to give me all the specs. sorry, i cant do it till after the weekend as i need time to get ready to go camping:(
 
Hey Sportster, your comment about the air pressure sensor I think could be a big one.

Maybe the AP sensor isn't seeing the pressure rise from the throttle opening & its not telling the ECU to increase the fuel enough.
I know it uses the air temp, TPS, RPM info, but the AP could be the culprit too. I wonder if there are specs on that sensor & an easy way to give a static test?

Also, Is there any chance the air temp sensor & Air pressure sensors could be reversed? I think AP sensors are three wire & temp is two wire though, so probably not. Probably completely different resistance values too. Hhhmmmm.
 
there are ohm specs not sure about static testing but should be in the manual.
the only 2 sensors that have the same plug are the tps and air pressure. i ck that too with that manual by color code via schematics and i have it correct.


on to you sportster.
 
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68ragtop said:
Did he give you the specs of their valve, or did he ask you to measure yours & then call him with your findings? I would think they already know what it should be. I am not pointing fingers, & it probably is just fine like they said, but it just has to be crossed off you list. You should pull it apart tonight to end our curiosity . :D

Do you have the manual pages on the procedure? Its pretty easy once you see what is being measured.
Click to expand...

I'm just sayin' I wouldn't be surprised to find a bizarre Rorschach RV jammed in there. Might get away with one on a carbed ski but when it comes to FI then stuff like that has to be right.
 
not sure why he would "cut or trim" a rotary valve on an rfi, cause fuel is injected on other side of motor, and he surely screwed up your summer so far, does he realize that you can actually cause engine damage even if its not installed correctly ??? rotary valve is your "intake valve", and raves are your exhaust valves ... Bombardier probably put millions in designing all this and he drank a few beers and changed all that ...

anyways, if your raves are hanging up, this can give you a mid range hesitation, and would be good on wide open throttle ...wonder how he trimmed your raves ???

man, this is not good ... nick will probably have a rotary valve laying around im sure, make a package deal with him ...(some test parts)

i know that sbt does a good job, i blew up 2 motors, my buddy with a 2000 rfi has 1, but, they tell you take rv cover and rotary valves out, and you install them yourself ...

now, i come home from work and read all this, check what we discussed, and go from there, also make sure raves are not hanging up ...
then take a sledge hammer and drive over to ses and beat a hole in the fender of his truck ...
 
We're getting a little ahead of ourselves based on the phone call information. Not liking that passed along information is making some doubters out of the work. But, we will have to see whats up with the valve if anything at all. I am thinking maybe they cut there own valves, meaning they have another company cutting them out, rather than using oem valves to save a few bucks? Maybe they are cut to exact oem specs? No clue.
 
ok so i just ordered a new 159 degree rv from osd parts and when i get back from my trip on sunday i will pull it apart and see where the timing is from ses , then if it doesn't look right i will install my new one. and hope for the best. well the new one is going in regardless.

raves are not hanging up as i checked that. runs great upper mids to high rpm
he didn't trim the raves as he only bored it the 1st over from stock.
edit i will do comparison's with the rv's and if it runs better i will update you guys.
 
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ok tom emailed me back and says 159 rotary valve. timing at 147 degrees open 65 closed. i cant remember if that is stock or not
 
You got it, I took this from the Book:

Opening 147° ± 5° BTDC
Closing 63.5° ± 5° ATDC
Rotary valve duration 159°
 

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so the difference is 65 closes rather than 63.5 and he say + or - 10 degrees either way. what do you think?
 
In a perfect world it would be at specs, but it rarely turns out that way. I have always used the timing wheel, then made both marks on the edge of the case with a sharpie. Then drop on your valve & see how close you can get it to line up with both marks. the OEM valves are usually offset a little so you can flip them over to see if one way or the other is closer. Sometimes they can be bang on, & other times you have to live with them being a few degree's off. The later of the two is more likely. If the RV timing is your issue with bogging, We would see its waaaay off or the wrong wheel/valve.
 
gotcha, thanks, i wonder why he made a big stink on how he times them when all the while pretty much the same? i started working on her last night but didnt get the cover off but will on sunday eve and will put a degree wheel on it and see where its at. thanks again. will keep ya'll posted.
 
When you pull it apart, get the mag piston at TDC, then separate the cover from the valve & mark where both edges are on the current valve. then pull it off, clean up the oil & mark it with your degree wheel per the manual. While I would think its ok, I am really hopeful thats its way off & it ends your misery.
 
yes i hope its way off too so that i can have some fun! but yes i will mark before and after and i am also going to put the degree wheel on the rv to make sure it is a 159 degree one.
 
well i'm back and just removed the rv cover, made my own degree wheel and it is spot on! i can see how the surface on the block and cover are mint! rv is set at 147 degrees and the rv itself is 159. so that rules that out.:( but its a good thing i pulled it all apart as i found that the oil pump cable adjustment came completely loose!:facepalm: i left the cable as is and remounted the throttle body to ck and see if my oil pump marks lined up and they were perfect even after blipping the throttle a few times. i kinda wonder if i got too much oil while riding to cause the bog but it doesn't look that way. so i guess all there's left to to put her back together and ride it with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up the volt meter. after that i just haven't a clue.
 
kinda stupid question but shows how much i know about electrical, does the charging system kick on and off when needed? i get 13.19 volts running @ 3k rpm and reads 12.9 sitting. the battery is a agm and keep it on a battery tender when not in use. i also have a 4 tech rectifier from osd. anyone?
 
The output from the charging system varies with the RPM.... The rectifier is there to help try and keep the voltage output fairly consistent and up not allow the charging system to overcharge. But more importantly to help keep your battery charged :)
 
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i just wasn't sure if i'm getting enough charge as spec is 13.3 to 13.6 or so but low charge light is not on.
 
You ate close to 13.2.... That small difference could be in the meter itself... I would say your fine, and on any carbed ski I know you would be alright... But on the RFI I'm not sure how dependent it is on voltage... Someone more knowledgable will chime in correct me if I'm wronh
 
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