Tc-w3. meow!

[Mekanix]

The po's of two of my machines have used mercury premium plus 2 stroke outboard oil in the 720 engine surprisingly got the same advice from the same dealer
One thing I noticed is how loud the bearings sound and how thin the oil seems.

What effect does that have on the engine component.
I mean with that oil, what happens to the bearings, cylinders, oil pump...

 

[68ragtop]

Its been my understanding that the AP-TCI oil was better for lubricating the RV system. Not sure how that rating could effect the bearings or other parts.

(happy to help release the worms...... )

 

[Mekanix]

Lol
There was a big difference between how free spinning the bearings felt when the crank was covered in that oil vs after I cleaned them and used xps.

Like the difference between olive oil and 30 weight.
It just I think the xps is a constant 30w isn't it ?
Anyways, it feels thick by comparison.

 

[LouDoo]

Its been my understanding that the AP-TCI oil was better for lubricating the RV system. Not sure how that rating could effect the bearings or other parts.

(happy to help release the worms...... )


View attachment 27353

And cylinder walls.

Lou

 

[Bnelson]

Isn't the quick silver premium plus API-TC rated? If so it would be fine in those 720's. (No raves)

 

[manolocross]

An API TC oil protects better in extreme heat( rotax engines) while a tc3 oil can't!!! Plain and simple... Meow

 

[Bnelson]

For sho, no argument on that, what I'm asking is if that is the quick silver premium, I believe it's API-TC rated?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Whatever the oil is, you need the low ash additive package, these metal salts extend the oil's capability to lubricate when others won't.

If the oil claims to meet both TC-W3 and API-TC then it doesn't have the low ash package and will not provide protection for the higher temps of seadoo engines.

The inverse is also true, don't use a low ash oil in the cooler running outboard motors b/c the engine is not designed to run hot enough for sweeping the ash away.

Quicksilver makes several types of 2-stroke oils and one of them supposedly does have the low ash package but I haven't verified this myself. If you want to know for sure then contact Quicksilver and make sure it's what you need. Otherwise, if it clearly states on the bottle that it is not intended for engines specifying TCW3 and does have the low ash package, also can be used in air-cooled 2-strokes then it should be acceptable.

I've seen some "universal" 2-stroke oils being marketed that I doubt have the low ash package, so beware.

 

[Mekanix]

Quicksilver PWC 2 cycle oil is API TC, however the black "Premium" bottle is only tc w3 and that's what I was given with my seadoo GS and Sportster :facepalm:
I just have a feeling that I got those two machines because of little details like this that contribute to destroyed motors

I'm sticking with xps no matter what, either mineral or synthetic for each of their applications.

 

[Bnelson]

I agree with you 100% sportster, forgot about quicksilver making so many brands... There is a quicksilver at my local walmart that is
API-TC only, it actually states it doesn't meet TC-W3 standards.... Buuut... Even then it's still only a synthetic blend which would not be suitable for a rave valve engine, but in the case of the 717 it should work alright.... But odds are the P.O ski had some quicksilver two-cycle outboard lol

 

[Bnelson]

Ah beat me to the post... On the same page, and yup the black bottle is no bueno

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

As for the question of the OP, of course a higher viscosity oil will make a bearing feel tighter but these oils will be somewhat diluted by the gasoline as well.

I think we need the low ash package primarily due to the piston temperature, it's a HP/displacement phenomenon that causes higher operating temps?

I have to guess my factory engine has plastic bearing cages in the crankcase (not all motors do), thus I want to stick with an oil formulated for the specific application.

 

[kicker]

TC W3 does not have the additives to protect the yellow metals, so the brass gears for the RV will suffer. I have read of guys going premix with good full synthetic but put cheap TC W3 in the oil tank to lube the RV cavity. Its not an instant death but not a good short cut to take either way.

That being said, we have a 2000 GS (720) that up until 2 years ago the owner put in what ever oil he could find at the gas station with a picture of a seadoo on the container. When Nick programmed keys for me 2 years ago, he said there was 230 hrs on it. It still runs great and had almost perfect compression last winter when I checked it. Of course the 720's are much more forgiving then the bigger engines. Obviously I am not recommending this.

I am the same as most, if you can give it the proper stuff for optimum performance and longevity you may as well.

 

[suke]

Quicksilver PWC 2 cycle oil is API TC, however the black "Premium" bottle is only tc w3 and that's what I was given with my seadoo GS and Sportster :facepalm:
I just have a feeling that I got those two machines because of little details like this that contribute to destroyed motors

I'm sticking with xps no matter what, either mineral or synthetic for each of their applications.

I'm guessing the black premium is different than the black fully synthetic from quiksilver? Cause I have the black fully synthetic and it has all the additives....according to the jug.