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Supercharger parts differences

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68ragtop

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Can someone tell me what housings & impellers are the same through most models? I know the 255 SC's are bigger than the 185-215's but do other HP machines use some of the same parts?
I am looking for a rebuildable core for a 2003 185 & until now I was thinking the 215's were the same they just added the IC in the intake manifold. Maybe not? I will buy the BRP rebuild kit, so I'm not concerned with the shaft & washer changes over the years, just the impeller & housing compatibilities.

Thanks, 68RT
 
the 185 and 215 are the same except for the number of teeth on the gear. I have a 2007 215 sc in perfect shape but needs rebuilt, has 110 hours on it. Would sell for $200 shipped. pm if interested.
 
Thank you for the info & the generous offer!

I just committed to buying a rebuildable one that a local guy has, But if that falls through I will for sure take you up on your offer if your still willing. I still have a little time yet. Have to pull the mag cover off yet to find one ball bearing & whatever is left of the plastic ball separator. The good news is that 6 of the 7 balls stayed in the bearing race. So hopefully the missing ball fell right to the bottom. :)
 
the 185 and 215 are the same except for the number of teeth on the gear. I have a 2007 215 sc in perfect shape but needs rebuilt, has 110 hours on it. Would sell for $200 shipped. pm if interested.

I will take it if he doesn't want it.
 
So can we talk about these Bearings in the SC's ?

It would seem all the bearings original & in the BRP rebuild kits are FAG 6200 with C3 clearance rating & use a polymer type of ball retainer. All of the specs in compatible brands from Nichi, SKF Timken, etc use steel & some have a lower RPM rating that is less than 40K. But all of these bearings including the FAG available appear to have a steel cage.
Any idea why the polymer are used? Cost or performance? I would assume its cheaper to make than with steel retainers, but thats just a guess.

I did read on SKF's website that the polymer retainers provide less friction & less heat.

Just curious more than anything. I would think the steel retainers might be less likely to come apart that the polymer?
 
You got it with the skf, they typically have a higher rpm rating with the plastic cage. Downside with the skf plastic cage, it's a bearing for the European market, very hard to find here off at all commercially. It's like the 2 stroke crank bearings, all the rebuilders use the stamped steel caged and not the skf due to cost and availability. I'm sure many think the plastic cage is cheap and inferior, yet for the actual purpose and benefits it's better, many can't change, "plastic = cheap",
 
I was trying to look up the oem FAG 6200 C3 specs & couldn't find anything directly from the mfg. But, a local distributer had this listing: https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=00050510 The image clearly shows a polymer cage but the description says its steel. One of the two things is wrong. 40K RPM's thats right to the edge of the 17 tooth gear @ 8000 RPM's crank speed.

What got me going on this is a few years ago I was rebuilding a SC & I mistakenly installed one of the bearings by pressing a new bearing in & I pushed on the wrong race when the resistance was on the other side.
realizing afterwards I put the force through the balls & might have dimpled the races I decided to pull it back apart & re-order the bearings. Had to wait several days to get them, so that got me looking at the comparable model bearings from local suppliers. Would be awesome to talk to one of the mfgs directly to see whats what.

I truly enjoy this part of the hobby as much as anything else. :)
 
Just started restoring a 2006 RXP, clearly it had a ceramic failure in the past, owner I bought from just had washers done and were told it already had steels. It failed shortly after that (impeller end bearing in S/C).

Have motor pulled down and wished it had plastic retainers on the failed bearings!! The only junk in the motor was couple chunks of ceramic washers in the bottom and some bits of a steel bearing retainer in the front pump screen. Glad I pulled it though, was told 'just change oil'.. Wrong! Both pumps damaged and #1 main bearing damaged. Remaining bearings OK but can see contamination. She'll get new rod/mains both pumps and a complete flushing of oil passages.
 
Isn't it crazy the damage that ceramic mush does to the engine? I am currently rebuilding a 2006 RXT with the same problem. Only this project had a bunch good parts stolen & replaced with more junk parts. Didn't realize that until I got it home & looked things over. Anyway, the screens in front of the oil pumps don't do a whole lot. Yes they catch bigger pieces that could physically break the oil pumps, but the SC parts that fall into the PTO housing often get ground to a pulp before it ever gets to the scavenging pump & passes right through the screens.

Your comment also reminds me something I was trying to figure out. aside from the 2008 style impeller shaft, when the metal washers first showed up, has anything changed with the shafts since then? I have two of the newer style shafts with metal washers & was thinking maybe I would use one of them with some riva washers & new bearings. Hmmmm. I remember someone scything they are stronger in recent years, but I have heard much about failing shafts. Just curious
 
I know there's been 2 or 3 updates to the shaft for strength and I believe they all fit the same housings, but pretty sure your washer/bearing kit is specific to the shaft (but come all together anyway)..
 
What there should be is 3-4 updates to the bearings. :D Yet those are the same since 2003. You just don't hear much about broken SC shafts on these SC's. So it makes me wonder if a stock 2008 shaft is any worse to use than the one in the current kit. I have several 2008+ style shafts now & piles of spring washers that hold spec on clutch strength. I know the kit has the seals & everything to make the SC like new, but it would seem that the Bearings, washers & springs are what we are seeing go bad & are what we see take the machines down, not so much the shafts. I have 40 hours on my RXPX SC. Rebuilt it with the BRP kit 3 years ago & I am going to inspect everything this fall, but plan to at least replace the bearings with the OEM polymer retainer FAGS. I would rather throw $50-60 into new bearings at 50 hours than risk waiting for one to fail prematurely.
 
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