Sucked up a Tow Rope... help!!!

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Mattdog501

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Hello,

I was hoping you might help me. We have a 2009 Challenger 230 with twin 255 HP engines. Yesterday we sucked up a tow rope into the left engine. I was only in neutral so it was just a little bit, bit it was enough for the engine to not run. We got the boat back on the lift with just running the right engine but the rope of course won't budge. From what I have read the intake grates cant just be unscrewed as I beleive they are bolted from the inside of the hull. My wife is going to try to reach her hand up with a long knife and cut the rope out but I've also read about removing the spark plugs and turning the shaft the opposite direction and pulling the rope out. Is there anything else to this process? All we need to do is remove the spark plugs and the shaft will freely turn?

I am hoping this is an easy process we can do while the boats in the Lift.

Thanks for the help!

Matt
 
4-stroke engines don't like to be turned in reverse, which is what you would need to do to unwind the rope. 2-strokes don't care.

I think the grate is removable from under the boat. But as you stated about your wife. many have reached up there with a sharp knife and cut it away in pieces...
 
Mattdog

First thing is that there really is no neutral in a jet boat. Neutral just lowers the bucket partially to deflect the thrust down and hold the boat in a fixed position. While you are in 'neutral' your motor and shaft are still spinning like you were going forward, or reverse for that matter, makes no difference. Only time the shaft isn't spinning is when the motor is turned off.

As for removing the rope, find someone with a small hand and a sharp knife and start cutting it away. If this doesn't work, you will then need to remove the pump and shaft to remove the rope.

I know with my 200 the intake grate is hinged so I can drop the grates with the switch in the boat. Just need to disconnect the power when it's in the lowered position otherwise it closes itself up automatically which I would not want my hand in when it does. This gives me significantly more room to get my hand in and cut the rope away. I'm not sure of the Challengers have the same feature or not through, or if the intake grate is fixed.
 
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I had the same problem a couple years ago with my Sportster 150. The ski rope was winded around the drive shaft. I took it out with a strong steel wire which I have bended to a hook. Together with a long plier and a sharp carpet knife I could pull out everything. Even the ski rope was still good after I knotted both ends together.
I would dismantle the whole pump until you didn’t try to get it out on a simple way.
 
Thanks for the replys everyone. Being that the engine is 4 stroke, taking the Sparks plugs out and trying to turn the shaft wouldn't work then right... As the first person who replied indicated? It seems that would be the easiest way, just pull the rope out in reverse, but if the shaft wouldn't turn regardless if the spark plugs are out then cutting it is what I'll try first before I trailer it and take the pump off.

Thanks
 
I don't see why a four stroke wouldn't turn backwards, but I'm basing that on my knowledge of motorbikes, cars and trucks, not PWC.


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Mattdog501 said:
Thanks for the replys everyone. Being that the engine is 4 stroke, taking the Sparks plugs out and trying to turn the shaft wouldn't work then right... As the first person who replied indicated? It seems that would be the easiest way, just pull the rope out in reverse, but if the shaft wouldn't turn regardless if the spark plugs are out then cutting it is what I'll try first before I trailer it and take the pump off.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I posted that based on something that was said/taught to me while I was in a engine rebuilding class for the military. That said, I can not remember the specific reason as to why it is bad. I have since done a Google search and can't find a good reason why not to do it.

So, being that the mechanics of the drive chain and what not should keep things in order, I would not be afraid to rotate it backwards.

The one thing I would do is, rotate it in the correct rotation by hand before you crank it with the starter. This will get the slack out of the timing gears/chain so it is not a harsh event on the first cranking of the engine.


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OK... SO I talked to a repair guy and he said that 4 strokes require a lot of force to rotate the shaft. He said even if I remove the spark plugs I wont be able to just manually turn it. He suggested just taking the intake grate off and cutting it out. Is is as easy as just un screwing it? Ive read some postings where people say its bolted from the inside of the Hull? I may just have my wife, who ha smaller hands, reach inside with the grate on and saw off the rope. Keep in mind we are doing all this while the boats on the lift still...
Any THoughts?
 
Intake Grate Sealing

I don't recommend removing the grate - I believe replacing it involves much silicon sealing and it has to be done correctly. Remove the pump if u can't cut it out. If u don't wish to tackle it, it is a small job for a marine mechanic.
 
Same thing happened to me. I used a knife and reached inside and cutter the rope. Then little by little I pulled the rope on the shaft until enough had slid and was able to retrieve the end.20150815_181538.jpg
 
We sucked up a rope last weekend and could really use some help from this forum.

I have a 2012 Seadoo Challenger 210 (with the 260 supercharged single engine). While on the water a ski rope entered the jet pump area and caused the engine to cut off. We were towed back and the repairs began:

First, we removed the grate under the boat and were able to cut away about 5 feet of rope wrapped around the drive train shaft. We then successfully removed the jet pump and with a lot of work removed the rope and melted impeller boot cover from the drivetrain and drive train cover- it was really wedged in there.

After inspecting the prop and jet pump assembly the only part we needed to replace was the impeller boot cover. Ordered a replacement from dealer and installed it today. We reattached the jet pump assembly to the boat (made all connections) and when we tired to start the boat- NOTHING!!! The batteries (I have a dual set up) are fine so I know it's not electrical. The dash lights up and the volts meter shows 13+ (no issues there).

The boat won't crank- the drive train seems to be stuck. Anyone have any ideas? Know if I need to do anything else? I've seen several postings about removing the spark plugs. What exactly does that do??

I could really use some help. Next steps if I can fix this is towing my boat to a repair shop for some expensive repairs...

Trying to avoid that at all cost.....

Here is a picture before we removed the jet pump and the part of the rope that was wedged in. Now it's gone and all clear.IMG_1404.jpg

IMG_1392.jpg
 
Kparis14 said:
We sucked up a rope last weekend and could really use some help from this forum.

I have a 2012 Seadoo Challenger 210 (with the 260 supercharged single engine). While on the water a ski rope entered the jet pump area and caused the engine to cut off. We were towed back and the repairs began:

First, we removed the grate under the boat and were able to cut away about 5 feet of rope wrapped around the drive train shaft. We then successfully removed the jet pump and with a lot of work removed the rope and melted impeller boot cover from the drivetrain and drive train cover- it was really wedged in there.

After inspecting the prop and jet pump assembly the only part we needed to replace was the impeller boot cover. Ordered a replacement from dealer and installed it today. We reattached the jet pump assembly to the boat (made all connections) and when we tired to start the boat- NOTHING!!! The batteries (I have a dual set up) are fine so I know it's not electrical. The dash lights up and the volts meter shows 13+ (no issues there).

The boat won't crank- the drive train seems to be stuck. Anyone have any ideas? Know if I need to do anything else? I've seen several postings about removing the spark plugs. What exactly does that do??

I could really use some help. Next steps if I can fix this is towing my boat to a repair shop for some expensive repairs...

Trying to avoid that at all cost.....

Here is a picture before we removed the jet pump and the part of the rope that was wedged in. Now it's gone and all clear.View attachment 32750

View attachment 32751
Click to expand...

Put the shift lever in neutral!
 
Shifter is in neutral. No difference. It still won't start with shifter in neutral.

Where is the starter fuse located? I checked a black box with fuses in it (next to engine) and fuses were fine- none were blown. Anyone know what number is the starter fuse?

Not sure what this means- starter obstructed via the pto/ driveshaft? What does that mean?? Please expand if possible.

Thank you to all who responded.
 
Question- should I pull the plugs and try starting it? I've read about hyper lock and wonder if I have water in my engine? I was towed back to shore- about 10 miles and I read that the engine could have water in it.

Thoughts- anyone. I really need to get this boat started soon....
 
You could try that. If you hadn't closed off the exhaust inlet that is a possibility. At the very least it will eliminate that concern as the reason why. If there is water in there, you also want to get that out ASAP and get the motor started before the real damage is caused.
 
Issue resolved!!!!!

Thought I would share my experience.

This morning I popped into my local Seadoo dealer and met with the service team. I described my issue and the service lead recommended that I check the start relay- since I had two batteries with a full charge, nothing blocking the prop and no water in the engine. I left with a $58 part and immediately swapped it out (easy to do). As soon as I reconnected the batteries the boat fired right up and sounded great.

I can't believe it was something so simple. The clicking sound at the relay when you press the start button is the clear identifier to know it needs to be replaced.

I hope this helps....

Here is a pic of the relay:

IMG_1553.jpg

Here is where the relay is located- next to fuses:

IMG_1552.jpg
 
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Glad it was a simple issue. Interesting it chose that specific time to stuff up with compounded the potential issues that may be the cause.
 
Kparis14 said:
Issue resolved!!!!!

Thought I would share my experience.

This morning I popped into my local Seadoo dealer and met with the service team. I described my issue and the service lead recommended that I check the start relay- since I had two batteries with a full charge, nothing blocking the prop and no water in the engine. I left with a $58 part and immediately swapped it out (easy to do). As soon as I reconnected the batteries the boat fired right up and sounded great.

I can't believe it was something so simple. The clicking sound at the relay when you press the start button is the clear identifier to know it needs to be replaced.

I hope this helps....
Click to expand...

clicking relay not mentioned before?
a manual might be handy
 
Me getting towed last weekend

IMG_1384.jpg

Back in business today and so glad it didn't cost me a fortune....

IMG_0160.jpg

Beautiful day here in N. Florida today.

IMG_5058.jpg

Thank you to everyone on this post who replied with information.
 
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