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Stereo Installation has Begun

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canadianwhiskey

canadianwhiskey

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My son and I started cutting into the boat yesterday afternoon. 3 of the 6 holes are done. I am having issues deciding on how to fasten the speakers to the boat.

I was going to use Toggle Bolts but I can't find them in stainless. I thought I would check on what you guys are using.

Cheers,

Whiskey
 
Those stupid little clip things with the threaded holes were too hard for me to hold onto and try to figure out how to keep them in there. I predrilled the holes and used stainless screws directly into the fiberglass. Use the next size up drill bit to make a counter sink to keep the gel cote from cracking when you tighten the screws.

Worked great for me. Going on 2 years with no problems.
 
Ok I will look into doing that then. Thanks for the tip. I will get some pics up the next time I am working on it. Might not be until the weekend again.

Cheers,

Whiskey
 
Have any tips for running speaker wire? I was thinking of going around and through the engine compartment and back up the port side to the amp.
 
I used wire loom and ran all the wires from the storage compartment into it. Took the loom down into the ski locker and pushed it way up in the corner against the floor. Ran it to the back of the boat where the amp wires are hooked up. Then the speaker wires went back up the starboard side. For the port side it was easy, down the side where the factory plug is. You can run them easy once you cut out the speaker holes. Use a wire fishing tape like electricians use. I bought one at home depot for like 15 bucks. I have lots of tips on my audio system thread if you check it out.
 
When I installed speakers in my 96 challenger (first of all I couldn't believe how thick the hull was in areas) I drilled and tapped the screw holes (I believe 10-24 thread is what I used? It's been quite a while ago) and used stainless machine screws. Extremely solid mount. There was no way I could have used the supplied speed nuts that came with my speakers.
 
I thought the drill and tapping worked great and made the install really easy.

I'm getting ready to put a second pair of speakers in my Utopia, so I'll be busting out the ol' Harbor Freight 5" hole saw and puttin' some holes in...I'm going to drill and tap the screws again. I also drilled and tapped the holes for the stereo cover when I mounted the head unit in my 96 Challenger...that's worked out really well and I guess that's what lead to me drilling and tapping the screws for the speakers...I didn't think about toggle screws.

Good luck with your project Whiskey...always nice to upgrade...
 
Thanks man. Hoping to get some more installation done tomorrow with my day off. We will see how that goes. Still pretty cool outside and we are supposed to get hammered with snow again tomorrow. I will get some pics up soon.
 
It's been a tough winter hasn't it? We're supposed to have an ice storm tonight here in Michigan...Winter just won't give up! We had more than double our average snowfall this Winter...you're not too far away, so I'm sure you got your fill of snow this season too!

Dyin' to hit the water and enjoy the outdoors again...look forward to the pics...
 
Yeah the weather is crazy. Was 78 yesterday and I was wearing shorts. Today its 43 and was snowing a bit this morning.
 
Managed to get some pics. I haven't done much since my last post because it has been to cold. I have decided to tap the holes and see how that goes. So far so good.

dsc05870x.jpg


dsc05871.jpg
 
Looks like good progress. Did you decide to go with bigger speakers on the top holes? Have fun cutting out the foam flotation panels. :banghead:
 
I am going with an 8" sub to repalce the 6.5" that was there. I was going to go 10" but decide to go this route. As for the flotation panel, it shouldn't be that hard with a dremel and some patience. Maybe a couple of beers too.
 
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8's should sound good and you can always upgrade down the road. It was a major pain to cut. i tried a dremel among many other things. Took a while.
 
Lookin' good Whiskey! On your way to a nice system...look forward to more pics!

I bought some high density foam a while back and they used an electric carving knife to cut it...it made very clean (and easy!) cuts...don't know how it'd work on styrofoam or if you have one that you'd use in that way? Just an idea.

BTW...send some of that 70 degree weather up this way RFoster130...were dyin' for it up here!
 
I thought about that. I don't think I am going to have to do much with the foam though. The 8" (I think) should slide in right beside it. That is what my measuring tape said but you don't really know until you get at it. I should get everything cut out this weekend.
 
That post about the 70's was a week ago. Weather in cincinnati doesnt stay consistent that long. Its 30's today.
 
When I had to tear out a little foam on my install, I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and got mean with it. Took 5 minutes.
 
Sako7STW said:
When I had to tear out a little foam on my install, I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and got mean with it. Took 5 minutes.
Click to expand...

Thats what I ended up doing. I used a pair of wire cutters and needle nose pliers to just grab and yank. Still took me a while. Had to make a lot of room to put 10" subs in.
 
I didn't get anything done this weekend unfortunately. Too busy with house renos and I had to work Sat. Hopefully this week I will get at it. I have some ideas to get that cut out. I am just not looking forward to widening the 6.5" holes for the subs. Going to take a while I think.
 
I had to cut my rear 4" holes to fit the 10" subs. I tried many things, a rotozip, dremel, and many other tools. Best thing that ended up working was a cheap $15 jig saw from harbor freight with a good craftsman blade.
 
Of you have an air compressor, get the high speed metal saw from harbor or whoever, cuts thru that glass like butter.
20$ at harbor.
 
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