Starter Solenoids

[TplusR]

In 2 months I have had to replace the starter solenoid on my 2006 RXT (143 hours) twice....I replaced it in May and again in July....then yesterday I got the ticking again, and almost got stranded on the water....

Is this just a matter of poor quality parts, or could something on my RXT be causing these solenoids to keep going bad???

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Just b/c the solenoid goes click, click, click, click repeatedly doesn't mean it's bad, more than likely you have a lose or corroded battery cable connection somewhere or the battery itself is weak.

Edit: I see you're probably in saltwater, and in that case I also have to point out that copper battery cables will corrode inside when exposed to salt. So one or more of them may be this as pencil leads and you won't be able to visually identify the problem but if you know how to use a voltmeter you should be able to find it/them by measuring voltage drop across the cable. Anything more than 0.5 volt drop is fail, IMO.

 

[TplusR]

Before replacing the solenoid I charged the battery and checked for loose connections as well as corrosion. Both + and- terminals had some corrosion on them, which I cleaned off. After doing these things I still got the ticking when trying to start the ski. I then replaced the solenoid and it fired right up.

The solenoid I just replaced was not an OEM part so that may have had something to do with it. I used an OEM solenoid this time around. Interested to see how long it lasts.


Edit: And yes you are correct, I am riding in salt water off of Long Island

 

[umh]

Could it be something wrong with the starter, using to much current wich resulting in burned solenoids?.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Could it be something wrong with the starter, using to much current wich resulting in burned solenoids?.

Yes, this is also a possibility.

I would recommend to the OP he should consider inspecting his battery cables VERY closely and replacing any that are corroded under the insulation. The factory cables were adequate but if salt has attacked them then the resistance of the cable increases.

Also the starter will wear over a decade of seasons and is highly suspect!

I believe it's times for inspecting all of these very closely, only a small amount of additional electrical resistance will make a large difference and all the wear and tear stacks up to a no-crank click, click, click, click of the solenoid happens when system voltage drops too much and is not enough to keep the solenoid energized.

It's also possible the solenoid can corrode inside as well over the period of a decade, thus it is not a bad idea to replace it as well b/c if it happens to stick while the engine is running the starter and starter bendix will be damaged.

So it's my opinion the OP has more work remaining before this problem of no-crank can be fully resolved.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I want to add, it's best to rebuild your original starter as opposed to replacing it with some off brand aftermarket starter.

So my idea is if you don't want to spend a lot of times troubleshooting this no-crank issue and would rather throw a little money at it then you can remove the large conductor battery cables along with the starter and take them to an alternator rebuild shop (assuming you have one in your area) and have them rebuild the starter for you and test the cables, they can make new and much better ones for you.

Afterward when reassembling all of these, consider replacing the solenoid one last time if the one present seems to have been damaged and not working 100%

To top this all off, it's my experience that most of these small cranking batteries have an average life span of 2 years. The reason is b/c they are only adequate and don't contain much reserve capacity thus as they age they become inadequate.

I've replaced tons of battery cables that were salt damaged, corroded green inside and the conductors were thin as pencil leads.

edit: Also I've replaced tons of starters and it's amazing yours has lasted more than 15 years. Solenoids will corrode inside when exposed to salt air and especially salt water, these are also a normal replacement part.

So most all of these are 14+ years old now and have been operating in a saltwater environment, it's amazing you weren't experiencing problems before now.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Next time if you're out on the water and your solenoid is malfunctioning, you can take a metal object such as a screwdriver or pair of pliers and connect the two large stud terminals together. This should make the engine crank if your cables, starter and battery are adequate.

 

[TplusR]

Thank you for all of the advice. I will be sure to check everything you recommended. The ski is an 06 with 143 hours on it and does get ridden in salt water most of the time. Most of the things you mentioned are probably not in the best shape.

I'll also make sure I store a pair of pliers on the ski just in case I ever get stuck with a ticking solenoid on the water.

 

[normr]

My 2000 GTX RFI wouldn't turn over, it just clicks, I bought a new solenoid from the dealer since I was hoping that would get me on the water this Memorial day weekend but no luck, so I am assuming the starter is the problem, it just clicks and nothing else. Any idea what it will cost to have my starter replaced on a 2000 Seadoo GTX RFI?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Same things apply in your case, salt water can corrode the battery cables under the insulation and salt water inside the starter will corrode the electrical terminals.

Often, it's better to rebuild the original OEM starter b/c most of the aftermarket starters are cheaply made stuff that won't compare to the original Denso-made starter.

Seadoo Starter Rebuild kits containing new brushes and shaft bearings are available at very reasonable prices if you're willing to repair your original starter this will make it work like new in most cases.

Also if your battery is questionable, have it load tested at an autoparts store. These tiny batteries aren't going to last for very many seasons, maybe 2 years due to the abusive environment of sitting for a long time between uses and the size limitations to fit in the ski there isn't much extra reserve capacity.

 

[normr]

Appreciate the reply

Thanks for the reply, hopefully it's going to be a straight forward repair, I've owned it a few years now and have never taken it in salt water, only fresh water lakes here in central Florida, so hopefully the cables aren't an issue on top of things.

Since I'm not a mechanic, I am bringing it to the dealer next week when they can fit me in, do you have any idea what a dealer might charger to replace the starter?

Same things apply in your case, salt water can corrode the battery cables under the insulation and salt water inside the starter will corrode the electrical terminals.

Often, it's better to rebuild the original OEM starter b/c most of the aftermarket starters are cheaply made stuff that won't compare to the original Denso-made starter.

Seadoo Starter Rebuild kits containing new brushes and shaft bearings are available at very reasonable prices if you're willing to repair your original starter this will make it work like new in most cases.

Also if your battery is questionable, have it load tested at an autoparts store. These tiny batteries aren't going to last for very many seasons, maybe 2 years due to the abusive environment of sitting for a long time between uses and the size limitations to fit in the ski there isn't much extra reserve capacity.