2008 gtx 155 is not starting perfectly. About 1 of 5 times I get a click, click sound. I can continue to fiddle w the button by pushing it several times and it will start nicely. The battery was dealer installed about 7 months ago and the connections seem secure. The symptom strikes me as a starter or push button problem vs battery but wondered if you all have seen similar instances and know the cause. Not overly concerning bc it doesn't take a lot to get it going but nonetheless, would like to disagnose and monitor in case it worsens.
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Starter goes click
- Thread starter rdfish1
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As Ocod said, I Had the EXACT issue. Jumped the solenoid and it would engage but. It spin. But the 5th or so try it would start perfectly. My battery was 6 months old. Swapped batteries from my other ski and all is perfect.
Most will say this is a solenoid. But your starter is getting power, so that is not your issue.
Most will say this is a solenoid. But your starter is getting power, so that is not your issue.
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maxthebird
Member
Those older 4tecs had known problems with the starter solenoid as they age. My 2006 GTI 130 had a similar issue. If it's intermittent then it can't be a bad battery which either has the juice to turn over the motor or it doesn't. New starter solenoid fixed it. Get the oem replacement. It's an easy repair.
Normally I'd agree. But this is exactly what happened to me. I made the assumption it was the solenoid. Ordered new OEM and installed it. Started twice just fine. Then right back to sometimes cranking and sometimes not. Swapped the battery and problem solved. 100% starting since,,,
Inyersting. I was ruling the battery out bc it is relatively new at 7 ish months old and dealer quality. Plus, the click occurs periodically not regularly and after a few more pushes of the button, it starts strong. I will explore the battery, wish it was easier to get to and inspect, test, etc. it appears to be a wet cell, lead acid beat i can tell and appears to require distilled water maintenance. Helpful to knownit may also be the solenoid. Can anyone provide a picture or seacrible the locafion of the solenoid? Thanks for the assistance.
maxthebird
Member
Good write-up on replacing a starter solenoid
http://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/20...-press-the-start-button-replace-the-solenoid/
http://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/20...-press-the-start-button-replace-the-solenoid/
AircraftDoc
Active Member
I had a brand new battery, Interstate, that went bad after 3 months. It was a vented battery. It did the same thing, start once then click. Charge it, then start once then click. Replaced it with an AGM sealed battery and no more problems. 3 yrs on the same battery.
Just pulled my battery, it is a yuasa yb30cl-b with 300 Cca. I checked the voltage and it was 12.4, which seemed a little low. However, I checked each individual cell by drawing the electolite up the tube and I got 1.275 on each cell, indicating good. Do you still think this is a battery problem? What model dekamor other arm do you recommend? Still getting the click, especially after sitting a week or two.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
Test it with a load tester. That is the only way you can tell what the battery's flaws are.
There is a picture of one in an early post. Use the search bar in the upper right and type, battery test.
There is a picture of one in an early post. Use the search bar in the upper right and type, battery test.
I assume the 12.4 is NOT with a load test. If I am right, the only accurate way to test it is via a load test.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
No, it is not.
I bought one from auto parts store. The auto parts stores will do it for free, if you bring in the battery. Let battery sit for 24 hrs first - no charging before.
I did a load test this morning using a tested similar to the one above. It came from harbor freight. What I don't know is, how big of a load it is placing on the battery. There is some reference to 50cca which seems really low and I'm not even sure this is referring to the load being placed on the battery. Anyway, using the tester, I got a pretty steady 11.4 volts for 20 seconds before releasing the load. I believe this is pretty good.
I charged the battery yesterday and it sat overnight. Volts read 12.5 this morning prior to the test.
You are boarder line at best,,, most do not drop below 11.8 range. You may be fighting two issues in your case..
To really figure this out, take jumper cables from your vehicle and ground the ground to the block. Take the hot to the OUTPUT side of the solenoid. This will instantly give a known good 12 volts to the starter (but not to the ski as it is on the output side of the solenoid). The starter will either work as it should or go click,,, If it clicks, it or the cable connecting to it is bad. If it cranks well, then your ski battery, cables or connections are bad.
Ok, appreciate the suggestions. I did find the receipt for the battery, it is still under warranty until February 2017, one year total. I also noticed the tech who installed the battery recommended the solenoid be replaced as it was noted as old style. He didn't say it was bad but recommended replacement. His quote for the part was only $30 so seems like an easy and inexpensive thing to replace. I am less convinced it is the battery but will let it sit all week without any charge and see how it responds to a load test. Will also test as noted above.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
50cca or 500 cca?
You need to be at 300 CCA at least. When you switch on the load test, ignore the volt graph. When you switch it on you read the amp chart. The volts should be above 12 when you release the switch. That is over 600CCa on a new AGM battery for the SeaDo in the picture..
Note: Battery should read near 14 volts when you start.
Replace with an AGM sealed Battery. They are made to take the shock and vibration.
You need to be at 300 CCA at least. When you switch on the load test, ignore the volt graph. When you switch it on you read the amp chart. The volts should be above 12 when you release the switch. That is over 600CCa on a new AGM battery for the SeaDo in the picture..
Note: Battery should read near 14 volts when you start.
Replace with an AGM sealed Battery. They are made to take the shock and vibration.
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