"Start your engine" is it any good

[Bay Cruiser]

Hi

Its been a while as I sold my jet ski but am now back with a 2008 Seadoo GTI 155SE and loving it.

Its been running fine but last time out it was a little rough. Unintentionally it was not used for 8-9 months and I didn't put any fuel stabiliser in. I know I am stupid, however, it has about 50-40 litres of fuel on board. Has anyone ever used "start your engine" and should I put some of this through as it is running a little rough and I have just changed the plugs. Here is the link to it. Thanks.

http://www.goldeagle.com/product/start-your-engines-fuel-system-revitalizer

 

[Spimothy Leary]

never heard of that... but my first instinct is to say "not a good idea"

Maybe a good plan B option is to drain the gas (or most of it) and use it in a vehicle or lawn mower ?

something a little less sensitive to bad fuel ?

 

[LouDoo]

I've used a similar product I think it's called TuneUp in my lawn mower and lawn tractor, worked pretty well, I dunno about using it in a Seadoo.

Lou

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Thanks Guys, I was looking for an easy solution as its difficult to find where to store 50 litres of fuel.....

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Does the fuel smell oddly, like skunk urine? If yes, this could severely damage your $$$ engine.

I really don't know much about how Aussie fuel is blended, maybe contains some ethanol? Anyway, the best idea IMO is to siphon out as much of the stale fuel as possible, especially don't use it if it smells skunky!

Additives can cause abnormal combustion, fresh clean fuel is always the way to go due to marine engines are under heavy constant load. If you are running questionable fuel with additives then at least don't run the engine hard till the fuel is gone and replaced with fresh clean stuff.

Unfortunately, lack of use will eventually cause shorter fuel pump life (due to corrosion and gumming of submersible electric fuel pump) and if you aren't using the ski much the best option is to add fuel stabilizer then fill the tank to help keep the fuel from going stale.

Storing ski with partially empty or completely empty fuel tank can cause the electric fuel pump inside the tank to corrode due to exposure of moist air trapped in the fuel tank, especially humid regions.

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Thanks and yes I have decided to get the old fuel out today. Don't know if it smells at this stage and I always only use Premium ron 98 with No ethanol. The problem you have with stabiliser is I never know when I am using the ski so should I put the full amount in today when I re gas and then at every use put a little more in dependent on the amount of fuel I use on that trip out as I could use the ski every week and then again the next time could be months. !!!

Does the fuel smell oddly, like skunk urine? If yes, this could severely damage your $$$ engine.

I really don't know much about how Aussie fuel is blended, maybe contains some ethanol? Anyway, the best idea IMO is to siphon out as much of the stale fuel as possible, especially don't use it if it smells skunky!

Additives can cause abnormal combustion, fresh clean fuel is always the way to go due to marine engines are under heavy constant load. If you are running questionable fuel with additives then at least don't run the engine hard till the fuel is gone and replaced with fresh clean stuff.

Unfortunately, lack of use will eventually cause shorter fuel pump life (due to corrosion and gumming of submersible electric fuel pump) and if you aren't using the ski much the best option is to add fuel stabilizer then fill the tank to help keep the fuel from going stale.

Storing ski with partially empty or completely empty fuel tank can cause the electric fuel pump inside the tank to corrode due to exposure of moist air trapped in the fuel tank, especially humid regions.

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Anyone know how to get this fuel out. I have tried all different size tubes and just cant get it to go past the entrance to the tank when poking it through the filler cap. Is there some sort of filter at the entrance as I just cant get a syphon tube in.

 

[LouDoo]

First I'm no expert on 4tecs, but I'm pretty sure they have an electric fuel pump, so just connect a hose to the outlet of the fuel pump and let the fuel pump do the work.

Lou

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Now that is interesting however wont the engine need to run and then the old fuel is running through it - or how do you run the fuel pump on its own. I understand you are unsure but maybe someone else might be able to answer.

First I'm no expert on 4tecs, but I'm pretty sure they have an electric fuel pump, so just connect a hose to the outlet of the fuel pump and let the fuel pump do the work.

Lou

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Hmm, perhaps you can twist the tube while pushing it in. There's a sharp elbow formed in the fill hose just above the fuel tank that connects to the tank plastic nipple flange so there's a step there you need to get past.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...3&make=seadoopwc&a=297&b=9&c=0&d=-FUEL-SYSTEM

If the fuel smells badly then it's advisable. I think if there's a big improvement with fresh fuel then fuel system cleaner isn't necessary. Start with adding 25 liters and if still rough try system cleaner and see if there's an improvement. Then afterward try to use up as much as possible then refill with fresh fuel. It depends on how much of the stale fuel you can remove, try to get as much as possible. Fresh fuel itself will add pep to your step if the old stuff is stale. Stale fuel just doesn't burn properly.

And your plan to add stabilizer as required should extend the storage life of the fuel dramatically. Pour the stabilizer in first then wash it into the tank with clean fresh fuel. No need to overdo it, estimate based on how much fuel is needed and the recommended ratio, it's not super critical to get ratio exact but too much can eventually become an issue.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Also, if you still cannot insert the siphon tube, you have the option of disconnecting the fill hose from the tank by releasing the hose clamp and pulling the hose off. That might be easier depending if you can reach in there.

A bit of motor oil on the inside of the filler hose will help slipping it back straight into place during reassembling.

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Thanks I did think of that just a bit tight to get in so will do this if no one else has any easier options. Always looking for an easy solution.

Also, if you still cannot insert the siphon tube, you have the option of disconnecting the fill hose from the tank by releasing the hose clamp and pulling the hose off. That might be easier depending if you can reach in there.

A bit of motor oil on the inside of the filler hose will help slipping it back straight into place during reassembling.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Now that is interesting however wont the engine need to run and then the old fuel is running through it - or how do you run the fuel pump on its own. I understand you are unsure but maybe someone else might be able to answer.

This will require you to provide a power source for the electric fuel pump and you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool to remove the hose connection fitting from the fuel rail.

The concept is good and I've done this before in some cases but I think it's more complicated than it sounds.

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Thanks everyone. I managed to squeeze in and get the hose off so no problem now apart from I do not apparently have enough suck so have to go and get a proper syphon tube. However if anyone has an answer to the stabiliser question and when to use that would be helpful.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, keep stabilizer in the fuel tank since you won't have good control over the age of the fuel based on your schedule. Add stabilizer as you add fuel, put the stabilizer in first and use some fuel to wash the stabilizer down into the tank so it mixes and doesn't simply get trapped in the filler hose.

Normally, stabilizer should extend the fuel life out to a year or more depending on conditions (hot sun and humidity cause fuel to age faster).

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Brilliant thanks thats what I needed to know. Tank was emptied yesterday and refilled with new gas and stabiliser and after about 5 minutes or so of running with a hose all is running well as far as I can tell out of the water.

Yes, keep stabilizer in the fuel tank since you won't have good control over the age of the fuel based on your schedule. Add stabilizer as you add fuel, put the stabilizer in first and use some fuel to wash the stabilizer down into the tank so it mixes and doesn't simply get trapped in the filler hose.

Normally, stabilizer should extend the fuel life out to a year or more depending on conditions (hot sun and humidity cause fuel to age faster).

 

[gti 130 wow]

For many the stabilizer is a waste of money . l have read that fuel can !ast a long time if stored in a sealed container where tempetures are below 70 degrees Fahrenheit . Right now the tempeture in my garage is 40 and the fuel in the boats tank is very well sealed. Also at least in the US , all gas has fuel system cleaners in it so any muck from that one tank of gas will not stick around very long assuming your fuel is of the same standard. What I would be concerned with would be the old oil . Change the oil.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Shelf life of the sta-bil product itself is just 2 years! Why neglect this important subject?

"The two biggest ways to ruin a tank of fuel-on a diesel or gasoline powered yacht-are water contamination and long-term storage. When you keep fuel stored and unused for more than three months, the higher aromatics that give you the octane and cetane ratings begin to evaporate. Gasoline that was rated 87 octane at the pump can become a barely usuable 80 octane by the end of a season."

http://www.yachtingmagazine.com/fuel-thought-0

The list of things that can pile up costing you $$$, a ruined vacation and possibly your life in some cases even, is nothing short of arms-length!

http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Marine Survey 101.htm

 

[Bay Cruiser]

Thanks Guys, it seems my fuel has gone off within about 8 months or so, emptying the tank refilling and putting stabiliser in seems to have cured the rough running. Well as far as I can tell running it out of the water. The next ride will be the real test but when that will be depends on a lot of things in my life at the moment.

 

[gti 130 wow]

From the Exxon web site:

In general, gasoline should be used within a month of purchase. When the engine will not be used for an extended period of time, it’s best to drain the fuel tank and then run the engine until it stalls. If you choose to store gasoline and follow proper storage guidelines, the gasoline can be expected to remain of good quality for at least six months.

So if you store it in October and use it in March then you don't need any additive . The proper storage requires the fuel be stored in a sealed container and in a cool place so that has to be a consideration with respect to that 6 month window .

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

From the Exxon web site:

In general, gasoline should be used within a month of purchase. When the engine will not be used for an extended period of time, it’s best to drain the fuel tank and then run the engine until it stalls. If you choose to store gasoline and follow proper storage guidelines, the gasoline can be expected to remain of good quality for at least six months.

So if you store it in October and use it in March then you don't need any additive . The proper storage requires the fuel be stored in a sealed container and in a cool place so that has to be a consideration with respect to that 6 month window .

Except that we're discussing a marine power plant, I would agree should be okay in the case of most cars, however, a marine engine is a constant-duty application thus not a good idea, at least add stabilizer if you must store for more than a few months, why push it? If you're a mechanic, you might be able to more easily diagnose when the fuel is stale by listening to the engine run under in the water load but most people probably don't even know what gasoline smells like or recall how much vibration and noise their engine made last season.

As far as draining the fuel tank goes, the only instance I don't recommend this is when the high pressure fuel pump is mounted in the tank. Otherwise I prefer draining. High pressure fuel pumps generally aren't designed for exposure to air moisture and will corrode in the sweaty moist tank. Been there, seen it, done that. here's a test someone did on fuel tank by itself http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/fuel_tankt_condensation

I cannot vouch for Exxon's experience or situation they had in mind, perhaps they weren't speaking of boats? Seriously, we cannot burn stale fuel, this is ill-advised, avoid doing that and the associated $$$ headaches.