Squeaky crankshaft noise?

[ImpulsiveJames]

I'm not super mechanically inclined, but is this what Spun bearings look like?

Bought this last month, makes a squeak noise when turned over, this is without plugs - obviously

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Does this all look and sound fine to everyone? I'm hoping the squeak will go away after I really get it started, I'm just not sure it will actually start in this condition. Just want an opinion before I potentially screw up the case trying to get it to go.

 

[mikidymac]

No clue what that sound is but it doesn’t sound normal.

Also what’s all the stuff coming out of the engine when cranking it over.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

The engine hasn't been turned over for probably a year. I assumed it could use some oil after hearing that noise, so I poured a few table spoons or so down there. Not much of a change.

 

[mikidymac]

No, if it is the engine making that noise adding oil will not help.

I would pull the pump first and check that, then the driveshaft seal and see if it is that then finally start checking the engine. Simple stuff first.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Thank you! I'll try that today

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Out of curiosity, when you pull the pump, you have to replace the pump oil and all of the seals, correct? Would it be easier to unbolt the engine, slide it forward, and test that way?

 

[mikidymac]

No, the pump is a sealed unit. 4 bolts for the pump cone, Steering cable and trim rod if you have VTS. Then 4 nuts or 4 bolts depending on the year and the pump comes out.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

I managed to get the pump off, it seems ok and the noise is still there, but how do I get the drive shaft seal out or check it?

 

[mikidymac]

The driveshaft has to come out.
I would turn the engine over by hand and see if it feels smooth now that the pump is out.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Yep, pulled out super easy. Noise is still there. I'm going to try to pull the starter tomorrow. It sounds like it's coming from that area, and seems...'louder than it should be' than if it was inside the engine.

Thanks again for your help! I really appreciate it!

 

[mikidymac]

You are doing the easy stuff first so you are on the right track.

If it is the starter you can rebuild them pretty cheaply. Do not buy an aftermarket starter as they are all junk.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Sooo.... I pulled out the starter and was just curious if any of the teeth on the flywheel were missing, and it moved...... I assume there is supposed to be ZERO play on the flywheel, correct? So that means either the bearing is SHOT or.... the flywheel came off of the taper somehow???

I'll probably pull the motor tomorrow and find out, just curious on your thoughts

 

[mikidymac]

It is common for the flywheel teeth to be a little chewed up from years of starting.
You should not have any teeth missing and you should have zero axial play in the flywheel. IF you can move the flywheel up and down then it sure sounds like a crank bearing.

When you pull the engine make sure you keep track for any shims that come off the engine mounts and mark them so they go back in the same spot. Also you will have to realign the engine with the special tool once the engine has been moved.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

I understand the shimming, but is aligning 100% required?

 

[mikidymac]

I understand the shimming, but is aligning 100% required?

Yes, but only if you don't want to ruin the splines on your driveshaft, PTO and impeller.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Welp.... Found part of the problem..... flywheel looks like it got really, really hot.... key is gone, shaft is shot.... poop

 

[mikidymac]

Time for a rebuild [emoji22]

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Rebuild Complete. Everything looked great in the top and bottom, cylinders even had some crosshatch left. Not the way most people would have done it, but I was able to get it all cleaned up, and used Loctite 660 to 'glue' the tapered shaft and flywheel back together, and applied the proper torque to the flywheel nut. Sounds good to me. Still waiting for pump seals and the DIY alignment tool.

 

[NickCawks]

I can't imagine that loctite is going to last very long in that application.

I hate to be a debby downer, but your looking at doing this all over again pretty soon if your planning to ride it like that.

The slot for that woodruff key could maybe be saved with some expert welding grinding and polishing but short of that you your gonna need a new crank

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

That's ok. I'll try to keep this thread updated with news. I like learning as I go. It may help someone in the future learn from my mistakes or know what's possible. I think with the taper, loctite 660 (which seems to be the strongest they offer and made for in place of welding), and torque, it should hold. I should know fairly fast if the timing goes sideways.

 

[ImpulsiveJames]

Wanted to post an update.

I was able to take it out two weeks ago, the loctite and 145Nm flywheel bolt held it on with no issues. I believe when I assembled it, it was probably 2-3degrees off (probably retarded), was vibrating and not getting the top end power like it should have been.

Took it apart last week, located and filed down the keyway as well as I could (used Harbor Freight Diamond rotary bits, not half bad), used a replacement key (same size as stock), JB welded it in (more for reference than anything), filed that down, then re-loctite'd it back on. It appears to have a little more power, runs really well, still has the vibrations and no top end. Still ended up driving it for about 2 hours on the river with no problems.

Ended up taking the impeller out and sharpening that up and fixing one of the bent fins. I plan to take it out tomorrow and see how much that helps.


Otherwise I think this repair is holding. I know, it's not the best and not advisable, but it's proof that is it possible and works in a pinch. Separating the previously glued section wasn't that bad, just used a little heat and it came right off. Mainly the shaft and flywheel are trash, I could have another keyway machined 180deg, but assume that will cost more than a used crank. I'm just experimenting and now I have time to rebuild something else for if/when it blows