• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Sprayed fogging oil thru carbs and plugs. Won't start

Status
Not open for further replies.

kilabez0

Member
So I've had the carbs off for a month while I rebuilt them, changed fuel lines etc. I noticed a lot of condensation on the motor so I was a little worried about moisture on the internals of the motor. As a precaution I sprayed a lot of fogging oil thru the carbs and in the plug holes. I knew it would be difficult to start but it won't start at all. Maybe I used too much? How long before it should be able to start?
 
Have you removed the plugs and dried them off? Ground the spark leads, put a rag over the spark plug holes and spin it over 3-4 times. Put back together then try starting again.
 
I doubt the fogging oil has anything to do with it. The fact you said you rebuilt the carbs and changed the fuel lines is probably the likely reason why the machine isn't starting.
 
It is. I put mix in the plug holes and it fired up. I'm not sure why it's not getting fuel. I labeled every line and replaced 1 by 1. I had cut the small gray lines in between the carbs that go to the accelerator pump in order to separate them. I put hose barbs in between them and zip tied the lines. I'll be pissed if I have to pull the carbs off again. There is no fuel in the strainer at all. I wonder if I connected the lines correctly. What else could it be?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
IMG_2563.JPG

I wasn't sure if this is correct.

And on the bottom of the carbs I have like a 6" line connecting the nipples that are somewhat facing each other. Pulse line is correct and I'm pretty sure the main line is correct as it connects right by the throttle wheel. Then on the plastic nipple thats showing in that picture I had another fuel line that I think goes back to the fuel tank maybe? It's dark out and I cant see where it goes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
On a fresh fuel system I leave the return line off and cover it with my thumb then with the fuel valve on I blow into the tank vent to pressurize it and when fuel starts coming out the return nipple on the carb put the return line on. Now the air is out of the system and carbs are primed with fuel. It should fire quickly.
 
Not sure. That's just how I have always done it.
If your strainer is dry either the fuel pump isn't working, you have an air leak in the fuel system or hoses wrong.
 
is there any sort of diagram that shows the fuel line routing? What about taking the return line off and connecting my mity vac to that nipple and sucking the fuel through?

...I had a hell of a time getting the little rubber piece through the clear circular diaphragms in the fuel pump. I hope I didn't crease one trying to push it through
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Make sure the pulse line is hooked up to the fuel pump. Also, you don't have to replace those accelerator pump lines. They are not made from the same material and they never cause a problem.

Chester
 
On a fresh fuel system I leave the return line off and cover it with my thumb then with the fuel valve on I blow into the tank vent to pressurize it and when fuel starts coming out the return nipple on the carb put the return line on. Now the air is out of the system and carbs are primed with fuel. It should fire quickly.

This worked for me when I had the same issues as you so defo try it. I tried for ages to get mine started so I did some research and seen this mentioned. 5 mins later it was fired up and running
 
So u pull the line off that t in the carb and keep your thumb over the line? Which one is the vent hose for the tank? The smaller 1/4" gray line that runs up front to the hull?
 
The smaller one. The 5/16 is the feed line the smaller is the return.

Remove the return from the carb and plug it. Pressurize the tank. ( there is a check valve just above the seat latch hook that you can blow into. and it takes white a bit of air to get it to move.)
once you see a bit of fuel dribbling out of the carb's return line you can shut the fuel off and reconnect the line.

Oh and open the fuel cap to release the pressure.


The other option is to prime the fuel lines backwards. Take the feed line off the carb. Turn the gas on. spray fuel from a squeeze bottle back though the line up to the tank.
 
My fuel filter stripped one of its threads near the top and won't screw on straight. Just picked the new one up from the dealer. I wonder if that created an air leak. I think I'll just take that return line off the carb and put my mityvac on it and draw the fuel through
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Uh, yeah :)

That is a common place to get an air leak because if it doesn't screw on straight.

I would say that would be 100% why you aren't moving any fuel.

That bowl usually fill's in about 5 seconds of cranking. Filling it with fuel will help as well.
 
is there any sort of diagram that shows the fuel line routing? What about taking the return line off and connecting my mity vac to that nipple and sucking the fuel through?


Yep. Done that and it works. It should at least try to start then. If it wont keep running, you likely have messed up on how you assembled the fuel pump in the carb. The mitivac can also just suck the fuel down to the carbs (not through them). That way you can see if you are sucking air as well. You should only get fuel, no air.
 
One thing I noticed on the picture that stood out is the cable ties. The white ties are not UV stable, and can break down. If you are using ties on all the fuel lines, please use good cable ties. IMHO, ties should not be used on fuel lines, but it has been done. I don't want to be on the 6PM news.
 
These are the stainless steel insert zip ties that everyone on this board recommended. I bought both UV black and natural color and was told they are the same. There were conflicting posts on the clamp vs zip tie debates so I used both. I also purchased a zip tie gun. I'm not too concerned about them. They're not exposed to UV light anyway right?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Taking them all off and putting screw clamps on. The gun didn't tighten the return line tight enough and it was leaking around the nipple.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top