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Speedster start then stops
- Thread starter jpd
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jpd
Member
It varies sometimes 20 minutes, other times could be 10. It makes no beeps other than when you take the key off and put it back it double beeps. This past weekend when this happen I cleaned the key and the post with rubbing alcohol and it ran good for about 25 minutes and returned to the dock, went out later and the same problem
kimnallan2
New Member
I have a 95 speedster...it must not have the fancy ingition on it....I took it out twice this summer and both times the passenger side engine quit on me after about 15 minutes and that engine would barely turn over. Left it for a day and it turned over fine both times. Compression was 150 on all 4 cylinders..it also has a continuous buzzing sound right from start up and does not diappear...both engines are cool to touch! any ideas?
Gamerse
New Member
I'll assume by buzz you mean the DESS beeper is constantly on. Try unplugging one or the other high temp switches on top of the head. You can also use a multi meter to check continuity from the sensor (which is really just a temp switch) to ground. If one or the other is grounded at all times, bad switch.
Try heating the starter with a heatgun. You might have a starter that drags when it gets hot. Luckily they are $60.00 new on ebay these days.... If not, take a plug socket and wrench with you, when the engine quits, pull the plugs. Put a rag over the holes, and have someone spin the motor for you. If you get large amounts of oil, its time for a crank. If you get water, don't run the engine any more until you figure out how it is ingesting water.
:cheers:
Ernest.
Gamerse
New Member
Check the 5 amp Mpem fuse, and the 15 amp charging fuse. I've been chasing the same problem, so far I've found info that states jump-starting from a running vehicle can cause a voltage spike that kills a mpem diode on the 12V supply from the 5A fuse. The diode being shorted causes a high current condition that pops the 5 amp mpem B+ fuse.
If the fuse is good, and the DESS system is fine, try disconnecting the yellow wires in your electrical box, if the problem goes away, its probably the regulator.
If the condition continues, try disconnecting the yellow/red wires. If the problem goes away, it could be a stator. If it does not go away with all that tried, pull stator covers and clean clean clean. Metal chips from the starter engaging the flywheel over and over can collect on the trigger coil, and stator/magneto. Obviously this is bad and can cause shorts.
Dess wise, if you open your storage compartment, you can reach back and push the drivers cup holder up and out. Directly below the cup holder hole is the DESS main wire harness connection. Pull it apart, clean, inspect, check pin tenstion, and apply dielectric grease. You can check operation of the dess post on/off switch by putting an ohm meter on the black and black/yellow wires. With the DESS lanyard cap on, you should see less than 2 ohms, with the lanyard off it should be infinate, OL or greater than 20 mega ohms. While testing, you can beat around the post, if the readings change, you probably have a post problem. Reconnect if all goes well, you can then disconnect at the electrical box, Pin little dd and big N and perform the same test again.
I'm personally leaning towards the pick-up coil signal being dirty on my machine. It makes the most sense to me, especially since I've done everything above except clean up. I have to wait for a day when its not 101 degrees at 90+ percent humidity to finish troubleshooting. If all that fails me, its my mpem, and I'm a sad panda....
:cheers:
Ernest
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Busted Grouse
New Member
Ditto Gamerse on the temp switch. I had the same continual beep problem. Remove the temp switch, attach an ohmmeter aka multimeter set to ohms, and put it in a pot of water on the stove along with a digital kitchen thermometer. Turn on heat. The switch is normally off, so resistance should be infinite at first. The resistance should drop around 185-90 degrees. If it drops sooner, the switch is bad. Mine started dropping around 155 or so. Replace. I haven't found a cheaper source then the dealer. Tell your wife she should thank you for buying the family a new digital kitchen thermometer.
Stevego
New Member
Mine cuts out occasionally at WOT. Seems to only happen when getting low on fuel. Not on reserve yet but close to it. I think the fuel sloshes around in the tank and the engine sucks air and stalls. Starts right back up no problem and will run fine until I run at WOT for a few minutes.
jpd
Member
Had the dess post replaced to it out and it ran for about hour with no problems - went out about 4 hours later and it started the same old stuff it would shut down at any speed. Had to pull of the key each time to restart it and it would start right up and it would again shut down at random speeds. I am total lost and spent out.
As you have stated above the fuses have never blown.
When you say electrical box where is that located at? I going to follow your step above to see if I can fix before I take it back to the shop, they told that they traced the electrical system from front to back.
When you say mpem your talking about the computer which I heard cost about 1500.00 is that correct?
Any help is appreciated.
As you have stated above the fuses have never blown.
When you say electrical box where is that located at? I going to follow your step above to see if I can fix before I take it back to the shop, they told that they traced the electrical system from front to back.
When you say mpem your talking about the computer which I heard cost about 1500.00 is that correct?
Any help is appreciated.
same thing recently happened to someone else. he replaced the temp sensors and it fixed it.
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