Spark Plugs

[DavesNotHereMan]

Guys:
Has anyone used brands other than NGK (BR8ES)? Like maybe the E3 brand?


-Dave
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[LouDoo]

Nope....the BR8ES work great, I didn't see any reason to change. Some guys use the platinum version which is NKK BR8ETX about 3 times the cost.

Lou

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Thanx, Lou.

The E3's are also 3x the cost. My first year indicates about 10 hrs on a pair, which surprised me ( my 4 Tech buddies use a single set all season), but from this forum seems normal.

I was just wondering if there was any more performance ( the hood ornament effect?) or life, otherwise I'll just pick up a dozen and keep a spare pair in the storage bucket.


-Dave
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[Coastiejoe]

When it comes to skis, I have found the OEM plugs to be about the best there is. In cases where some dump too much oil, I have seen them step up to the next hotter plug. But that is a band aid,,,,

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Thanx, sounds like an NGK order to me.


-Dave
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[soccerdad]

Just for fun, check your oil injection pump to see how it is adjusted. It may be set a little high and causing your issues. Not sure about the RFI and how plugs last in them, but in my 96 GTX, the plugs look nice and new after a season. Just chocolate brown.

 

[LouDoo]

Thanx, sounds like an NGK order to me.


-Dave
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Don't order them, they have them at most auto parts stores, 2.35ea at Autozone or Advance.

Lou

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

When I bought this around Labor Day (first PWC), just put gas and oil in it and went riding. Ran great.

It had 104 hrs on it and from what I could tell, did not have any other service. The last paperwork from the PO shows a date of Oct 2001. Had problems at the very end of the season with missing above 3500 rpm. New plugs seem to fix that for the 15 min ride from my dock to the ramp. The old ones were black ( oil fouled?). For all I know, those were the original plugs (hard to believe).

So when I pulled it for the winter, I thought I would have the dealer go over it front to back just in case ( it was a CL purchase). Also had them clean the Raves, since I doubt they were ever done. Dealer said Raves were pretty dirty, never done. Everything else checked ok. Compression right at 160/160, charging 13.2v at idle. All electrics in good shape. Duralast AGM battery - pretty good. Instant starts.

So all of this is just agonizing about the plugs while she sits on the trailer in the garage for the winter.

Lou, the last set I got at AdvancedAuto for $2.15 each, so that sounds like the source.

Thanks,


-Dave
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[Coastiejoe]

160 compression is above what a new engine is, my guess is, the gauge is not accurate. 150 is perfect, 120 is in need of repair.

Does the ski still have Grey Tempo Fuel lines?
A common failure is the rectifier. I would buy one now and leave it in the ski. You will NEVER need it if you buy it, but if you don't, you'll need it for sure.. LOL

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

I read about those fuel lines all over the forum, but will have to check those gas lines, I thought they were all gone by 2001. Do you know?

I see that OSD is advertising the 4 tec rectifier for $99. I may have to go for that.


-Dave
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[Coastiejoe]

I honestly don't recall when the cutoff of the lines is, [MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] will know for sure though..

 

[kicker]

RFI skis did not have a grey fuel line problem.
The 4 Tec rectifier from OSD is the one you want, I have not heard of anyone having issues with them, they will fill the needs of the RFI better then the OEM one.

Your "miss" at above 3500 could be a fuel system issue, pump, injectors, strainers (filters) fuel pressure. These are all easily checked and fixed with a bit of time.

To be honest it sounds like there has not been much maintenance done in the last bunch of years, I would pull the fuel pump and replace the strainers at minimum.

Read through this thread, there is a ton of good info there.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?50814-The-RFI-(Rotax-Fuel-Injection-)-Spot

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Thanx, I have been thru every post in the RFI Spot. I learned a ton. Worth going over again, tho, while watching some football. I know the oil filter was replaced during the dealer check and the bill lists a fuel filter, but if I remember, the fuel filter is just a filter pad on the top of the pump.


-Dave
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[Coastiejoe]

I went to correct my post,,, but couldn't for some reason. I was on my phone earlier and did not see you had an RFI until I logged in on my computer...

Sorry about the confusion,,, No Grey Tempo lines for you.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

NP, I appreciate your responses. They are very helpful for someone who has never had one of these things.


-Dave
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[kicker]

Thanx, I have been thru every post in the RFI Spot. I learned a ton. Worth going over again, tho, while watching some football. I know the oil filter was replaced during the dealer check and the bill lists a fuel filter, but if I remember, the fuel filter is just a filter pad on the top of the pump.


-Dave
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Find out what fuel filter was changed. There are 2 strainers (filter pads) on the pump in the fuel tank, but there is also a water separator/filter where your steering mechanism is inside the hull. I am going to guess that the one inside the tank was not changed, it takes a bit of work to get at it, and would result in a hefty bill from the dealer.

This is the water separator

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Aha! There is a charge on the bill for the oil filter and the mech Sharpie'd the date on that filter, but I never saw a separate charge for a fuel filter, so I bet you're right and thanks for the pic, cuz I haven't seen the water separator. So I guess I need to find it.


-Dave
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[DavesNotHereMan]

Also, it looks like your pic is from the front cargo area with the bucket out. That would make it on the starboard side right in front of the oil filler tube. Correct?


-Dave
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[kicker]

yup thats correct, take your bin out and you will see it tucked under there. Untwist it and there will be a mesh filter in there. I would still be more concerned with the ones in the fuel tank though.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Ok thanks. I have another issue with the vent tubes in that compartment. They crisscross, and the one that connects to the thru hull vent on the port side is zip tied to the hull on the starboard side and vice versa. The zip tie that holds it in the rubber grommet that goes thru the hull broke and I cannot seem to get it back into the the receptacle to get another zip tie around it. How does that work?


-Dave
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[Spimothy Leary]

Thanx, Lou.

The E3's are also 3x the cost. My first year indicates about 10 hrs on a pair, which surprised me ( my 4 Tech buddies use a single set all season), but from this forum seems normal.

I was just wondering if there was any more performance ( the hood ornament effect?) or life, otherwise I'll just pick up a dozen and keep a spare pair in the storage bucket.


-Dave
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10 hours is NOT normal.

Where did you read that?

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Different threads on this forum. I would need to search to find the specifics. What should be expected? A full season? Here is what they looked like when I pulled them out:




-Dave
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[ryan199358]

They should look chocolate brown. They look kinda black in the picture. Here's a chart -

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

Cool chart. Thanks. They were definitely the first oil fouled photo on the chart. I guess I won't know what new plugs do until next year.


-Dave
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[Spimothy Leary]

IMO plugs should easily last a season, and for me that's a pretty long season.

I remember when I bought my first Doo that somebody told me I was going to go through a lot of plugs, so I bought 6, about 18 months and 150 hours later, I sold the ski and there were still 2 new plugs inside the little plastic carry cases.

When I bought my yami 1300, the owner told me that I will be going through plugs all the time, I bought a full box, I've put almost 90 hours on the ski and I haven't changed them yet.. stupid me for listening to him.

However he was one of those people that let their ski's sit for weeks at a time, but tend to go out into the garage and start the ski for 15/30 seconds every week, thinking they are doing the ski some good, are much more likely to go through plugs at a faster rate, since they never really get a chance to heat up in that short period of time and will foul as a result.

Just a thought, I don't start mine in the garage just for kicks very often, so when my ski gets fired up, its usually going for a 50 mile ride.