Some basic questions please.

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Canty

Canty

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Hello everyone. My name is Matt. This is my 1st post. I have read as much as I can on this and other forums, and watched as many youtube mechanic videos as I could. I have found many of my questions answers but I would like a few things clarified by you all if you don't mind.
1st, I know there is a debut on keeping the oil pump or going pre-mix. I have chose to go pre-mix. My question is this. If I remove the plastic gear from the oil pump and replace the pump on the motor (in case I do not like pre-mix, I want everything there so I can go back to stock if I choose) do I need to still purchase a oil pump block off plate or with the pump good enough. Obviously the oil lines will be blocked off as needed.
2nd, the two little nipples near the oil pump, most places say to cap them off, but could they just be looped together? Is one option better than the other?
3rd, many places have said to keep the feed line and return line hooked up to the oil tank. However, others say just loop them together. I am on the fence as which to do. At first I was going to loop them together with the peak of the loop high in the engine bay with a capped T fitting to be used to fill the oil tube when needed. Keeping the tube clear so I can monitor the oil level. However, I was reading last night that someone said if you loop it and there is a leak, then it "could" leak out before you know it as oppose to if you keep a quart in the oil tank, there is a good chance you would notice the issue before it is to late. Any opinions on this?

Thanks for your help in advance and to those whose posts I have already read and helped me in rebuilding my GTI LE, thank you.
Canty
 
you dont need the block off if your doing it the way you talked about. also you can just loop the two together and that will be fine. I would keep the oil going to the crank along with the vent and not loop them together.
 
Sea-Doo oil pumps have an almost 0% failure rate, don't bypass it. The odds are much higher that straight gas will find it's way into your tank and kill your motor before you ever have that pump fail.
 
As said above no reason to remove the oil pump so there is no debate.

What engines do you have in your skis? That will determine how to go premix if we can't talk you out of it.
 
So, as said above there is no good reason to remove the oil injection especially on the 717. You will use way more oil, have a better chance of fouling plugs and you still have to keep oil going to the rotary valve.

To go premix you need to get a block off kit, pull the intake manifold so get a new o-ring, remove the nylon gear and oil pump. You will need to plug the oil line to the oil pump but leave the lines from the tank to the rotary gear and still keep oil in the tank. Finally you have to cap the injection nipples on the intake manifold.
 
Thanks guys. It seems the overwhelming response is to keep the pump. And so I will go with your advice and keep it as well. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
I would change the small 3/32" oil lines from the pump to the intake manifold.
Change the inline oil filter.
And verify you are using the correct API-TC rated oil.
 
Yes, I will. Thank you. Is there a good location to purchase the lines? On line PWC store maybe or is it something auto part stores sell?
 
Hey guys. A little update. I got the motor all finished up and reinstalled into the ski. I left the oil pump on and chose not to go premix. However, I have a new problem. 1st though, how long does it take for oil to flow through the little 3/32nd lines? I installed new lines, filled the oil tank, bled the oil pump and even though it cranked over a lot last night, the oil is only about 1/4 up the tube. Is that correct? Will it flow once the motor is running and oil pressure increases? Or do I have a new issue?
The other issue is that I cannot get it to start. I have about 1/2 a tank of fuel, the fuel filter is new. After cranking it I removed the fuel lines and I could pour fuel out of the feed and there was even some that spilled out of the return, although not a lot, just enough to see it drip out. I poured some pre-mix in the carb as others on this forum has instructed and it fired right up, idled nicely, and revved well in the 15 seconds I let it run. Did I do something wrong when I rebuilt the carb? Could it be an adjustment on the carb? Could it be a fuel flow issue, not enough flow to run. I plan on removing the return line and cranking it over to see how much fuel is exiting the carb, if it is not substantial I will remove the feed line and use a suction pump to verify good flow. If both of those pass I will remove the selector switch and clean it. Is there anything else you all could recommend?
Thanks,
Canty
 
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1. You have to have the engine idling and the oil arm held wide open by hand to get it to pump the oil through the new little lines. Just cranking it without starting it will never get the oil through.
2. A new set of carbs takes a while to prime, adding the premix and getting it to fire probably did the trick, should be fine now.
 
Still have problems. I went outside tonight and tried starting it again. It just cranks and cranks. So, I pulled off the return line and cranked it and it had a good amount of fuel coming out but not as much as I thought I should have, but then again I am a noob with skis. So, I pulled the feed line and used a suction tool to verify fuel flow and at low suction pressure the container filled up easily so I do not think its a feed issue. I poured pre-mix in the carb once more and again...it fired right up and sounded good. But as soon as the fuel I poured in burned off, it died. I am convinced it has to be in the carb. So...what in the carb could be the issue. When I rebuilt the carb I sonic cleaned everything and ran carb cleaning brushes through every hole I could find. Its possible I missed something but I do not think I did. So, pros, where should I look now? Maybe I should take off the carb and check the needle seat adjustment. Another person had a similar issue where fuel down the carb would run, but no fuel was getting to the carb. It looked like it was the needle seat that was causing issues. What do you all think?
 
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No, I didnt see your sticky on it. I'll look over it and maybe re-do it along with your info.
 
Okay, here is the update. I removed the carb and rebuilt it as your thread shown. The only thing I could not do was the pop off test because my pump wouldn't go above 22psi and according to your link, my GTI LE needs 36-40 psi. So I will be purchasing a new pump in the next day or so. However, I thought I would give it a shot and see if it ran. And wouldn't ya know...a new problem. I just removed the battery off the charger/tender so I know I have a charged battery but when I hit the start button I hear the OE starter, which I just installed new brushes during the rebuild, start, then a click and the sound of the starter spinning. I think the "click" I hear is the bendix extending and hitting the flywheel then the bendix retracts and the starter continues to spin. It worked while I tested the ski up until just now. I will say that even when I first rebuilt it, it would do this but then it would engage and turn over the ski. Now it wont turn over by the starter at all. The motor will if I spin it by hand which I did a few times. Do I need to rebuild it again? Could my battery charge up and pass my at home charger test but in reality, the battery not be able to produce the amps for the bendix to hit the flywheel and "push" though into the gears so the can mesh and spin the motor? I did read once about how the bendix works and it requires the correct RPM's to spin it up in to the flywheel and hold it there. I am thinking if the battery actually is weak, it may not be able to do this. Has this happened to any of you? Any ideas or tests you guys recommend?
Thanks for your patience in dealing with my noobisity (I just made that word up).
Canty
 
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To prime the oil pump you will need to remove the spark plugs and put the wires on their grounding perches. This allows the engine to spin freely. Next you will need to reach down below the carbs and hold the oil pump advancing arm wide open ( this is the actuator connected to the carbs via a cable. With the arm held wide open you will need to hold the start button and let the motor spin to prime the pump. You can only do this in ten or fifteen second intervals allowing the starter to cool in between so make sure you have a good battery with a full charge. As you hold the starter button down pay attention to the small injector lines going from the injector pump to the intake manifold, you should start to see fluid moving through them. Once the oil in the lines reaches the nipples at the manifold you should be good to go. Just a note; It's a good idea to fog the pistons prior to this to make sure there is good lubrication during the priming process. I just did this to mine after it sat for twelve years and it runs like a clock.
 
Then, do not add fuel for your first ride. When you do add fuel, adds straight fuel and no oil. The premix ration will dwindle and you won't have to worry about damaging your engine. the oil lines will charge properly and you'll be good ta go. :)
 
etemplet said:
Go 40:1 premix now before you turn the engine over one more time.
Click to expand...

Why would he do that? He's not running premix. If the concern is the oil hasn't primed enough yet and reached injection point, he could remove the spark plugs and put a little oil in that way or spray some fogging oil in it. But premixing a tank isn't necessary, he didn't do a rebuild, besides, 40:1 is too much with injection, he'll foul spark plugs first time on the water.
 
Thanks guys. That's helpful. Here is another question. I removed the starter, cleaned up the brushes and reinstalled it. But the starter is doing the same thing as before. The bendix extends, then retracts while the starter still spins. Basically, the bendix won't extend and remain extended. Does that mean the starter is shot? Or does the bendix need rebuilt? It is an OE starter.
 
Canty said:
Thanks guys. That's helpful. Here is another question. I removed the starter, cleaned up the brushes and reinstalled it. But the starter is doing the same thing as before. The bendix extends, then retracts while the starter still spins. Basically, the bendix won't extend and remain extended. Does that mean the starter is shot? Or does the bendix need rebuilt? It is an OE starter.
Click to expand...

Starter isn't strong enough, that's why it's retracting, my OE on the 97' GTX resto did this. What worked for me is a cheap rebuild kit for less than $15 off ebay. Get the new brushes installed and it'll fix it like a new starter.
 
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