Yup you can do the test with the carb assembled.
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So who else cleans carbs?
- Thread starter dustindu4
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
$300 ? no sh1t ?
I had absolutely no idea the cost was that high.. I would have guessed half that unless carbs were disgusting, and that's assuming that the re builder used every part out of the kit, which isn't always necessary is it ? (i'm asking not saying) but I do know that back when, we had a LOT of known good spare internals laying around from rebuilds.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I agree, you probably can perform the pop-off test with the metering diaphragm installed, however, I prefer to do it after removing the diaphragm using the procedure as described in the Mikuni manual.
The reason is, so that I can lubricate and observe the needle valve. Also, my personal (unfounded/unproven) belief is the diaphragm may be damaged by the pressure.
Four screws and the cover is off..... no big deal.
The reason is, so that I can lubricate and observe the needle valve. Also, my personal (unfounded/unproven) belief is the diaphragm may be damaged by the pressure.
Four screws and the cover is off..... no big deal.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think it's unnecessary MOST of the time to use ALL new parts, the diaphragm if still soft should be fine and many are. The filters usually blow out fine with compressed air. I do believe a proper rebuild deserves a replacement metering needle/seat assembly if it's a decade old the impregnated lubricant is probably worn off the needle tip, and I prefer to use all new o-rings.
If the metering needle has been replaced in the past few seasons, it's probably still acceptable IMO, inspect the tip closely (I use a magnifier and bright light) for signs of wear. If it pops consistently then all should be good.
Some racers claim to replace needle early and often(in preparation for their race), they polish the brass seat, lever end of the needle, and the arm contact surfaces. Some even modify the arm geometry slightly, all this effort trying to optimize their hole shot.
This is going a bit far if you ask me, but then again I've never gone to these extremes myself so can't comment on the results. Maybe I'll give it a try some day but I have doubts I could notice any improvement.
If I do see a metering arm that has worn contact surfaces, I replace it b/c I've seen worn ones bind.
If the metering needle has been replaced in the past few seasons, it's probably still acceptable IMO, inspect the tip closely (I use a magnifier and bright light) for signs of wear. If it pops consistently then all should be good.
Some racers claim to replace needle early and often(in preparation for their race), they polish the brass seat, lever end of the needle, and the arm contact surfaces. Some even modify the arm geometry slightly, all this effort trying to optimize their hole shot.
This is going a bit far if you ask me, but then again I've never gone to these extremes myself so can't comment on the results. Maybe I'll give it a try some day but I have doubts I could notice any improvement.
If I do see a metering arm that has worn contact surfaces, I replace it b/c I've seen worn ones bind.
dustindu4
Active Member
That's who I was looking at as well
dustindu4
Active Member
The 951 has 2 carbs. 2 Parts kits, twice the labor, plus you have to set the linkage back up correctly. I bet if you go to a seadoo shop they charge 2-3X that. I would just clean them if the carbs weren't 14 years old. Considering they have 280 hours of grey fuel lines on them, just going to put them out of their misery.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Sorry I didn't pay attention to which year your 951 is, but I found my 2001 was too lean in the pilot jet and had a slight lean hesitation. This issue was completely resolved by going up two sizes on the pilot jet (to #80 from #75), although size #77.5 probably would've been sufficient.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-N100...Parts_Accessories&hash=item232cd18950&vxp=mtr
Squirrel agrees with you though, he buys new carbs as opposed to fooling with them. I dunno the details of what if anything he does to the new ones.
Anyway, based only on my experience with my post-'98 951 I can say I kinda lean towards one size larger (#77.5 as opposed to #75) on the pilots despite I have yet to see anyone post they found the same thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-N100...Parts_Accessories&hash=item232cd18950&vxp=mtr
Squirrel agrees with you though, he buys new carbs as opposed to fooling with them. I dunno the details of what if anything he does to the new ones.
Anyway, based only on my experience with my post-'98 951 I can say I kinda lean towards one size larger (#77.5 as opposed to #75) on the pilots despite I have yet to see anyone post they found the same thing.
Lake Sailor
Active Member
Gonna revive this one for a bit.
My OSD carb, about $200:
Pretty nice if you ask me All set up as specified including the socket heads. Coulda had the accel pump too, but turned it down.
So, did the pop-off test as sportster suggested, took the reg cover off, no big deal. Got a few crisp pops at about 40, a few hissing unseats at 30+, called it good.
Painted the adjuster screws, hoping to be able to find them in the hull later.
Just need a motor to put it on
My OSD carb, about $200:
Pretty nice if you ask me
All set up as specified including the socket heads. Coulda had the accel pump too, but turned it down.So, did the pop-off test as sportster suggested, took the reg cover off, no big deal. Got a few crisp pops at about 40, a few hissing unseats at 30+, called it good.
Painted the adjuster screws, hoping to be able to find them in the hull later.
Just need a motor to put it on
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Just need a motor to put it on
Looks like new, I could definitely find that screw!
My 18 year old carbs, $134 for the pair. The OSD option is very nice for sure, but these carbs are all very salvageable with basic cleaning and rebuilding. I just have a hard time blowing 4 bills on a set of carbs to maybe recoup $100, so that is still twice the price of rebuilding. No one would have paid $50 for my carbs as bad as they looked on the outside. I probably have 10 hours into these carbs so looking at it as I saved money due to my "labor" cost, no I didn't but I also don't charge myself for my labor LOL. But that extra $150 I saved bought me more parts to build my ski.
Lake Sailor
Active Member
Sportster, yeah, brand new, I don't get how the OEMs get $550 for one of these, OSD & National Carb get $200?
racerxxx, my old carb:
including the on-boat JB Weld repair (temporary, obviously)
I must must have done that when putting the flame arrestor bracket back on one time. Much caution is in order in the future.
<On Edit> racerxxx, very nice, you got a bead blaster?
racerxxx, my old carb:
including the on-boat JB Weld repair (temporary, obviously)
I must must have done that when putting the flame arrestor bracket back on one time. Much caution is in order in the future.
<On Edit> racerxxx, very nice, you got a bead blaster?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I like the idea of painting the screw, nice touch. I'm surprised with such a high pop-off (airbox design dependent) they're using perforated choke butterflies. Not saying it's a problem b/c what counts is if it works and can't argue with that, just didn't expect to see a perforated choke plate along with high pop.
Sportster, yeah, brand new, I don't get how the OEMs get $550 for one of these, OSD & National Carb get $200?
racerxxx, my old carb:
including the on-boat JB Weld repair (temporary, obviously)
I must must have done that when putting the flame arrestor bracket back on one time. Much caution is in order in the future.
<On Edit> racerxxx, very nice, you got a bead blaster?
I personally don't have a blaster but at my Father in laws machine shop we have an industrial bead blaster. I have 24/7 access and I think I'm the only one who uses it.
I can see why you needed a new carb now, LOL.
Lake Sailor
Active Member
Looking on the bright side, I've got the old one to practice rebuilds on
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