Trying to determine model so I can get the correct carb kit

[Safety1st]

My brother gave me an old Sea-doo, and after doing some quick looking I see that it is a 1995 (based on the HIN) machine but I'm struggling on how to determine the model.
I went to this link and see the 95 models and down in that section mine looks like either one of the two on the left side. Its out at the lake so I can't quickly check it. It has twin carbs as well. I'm thinking it has the 587 but I want to make sure. Is there anything else I can do without having the machine here?

These are the carbs that I need kits for. thanks

 

[burtshaver2021]

Post some pictures

 

[Safety1st]

Post some pictures

I'll have to wait till I get back out to the lake to do that, but I wanted to have the carbs rebuilt before then to I can take them back out there. I was hoping I could determine this from the HIN or other information. thanks

 

[burtshaver2021]

What colour is the hull below the rub rail, and above? On the magneto cover there should be a tag that will tell you what engine, but again you don’t have the machine so can’t do that.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Could you not google 95 SP, 95 SPI 95 GTX until you see one that looks like yours

 

[Safety1st]

Could you not google 95 SP, 95 SPI 95 GTX until you see one that looks like yours

I tried that, I just can't seem to recall the color scheme, I think it had the purple seat and other trim so I'm thinking its an SPI. I'll get ahold of by brother and confirm. On the following site it reports that the 95 SP and SPi have single carbs though

Sea Doo Model Reference (1988-2010)

 

[Safety1st]

I learned that the machine is a 1995 GTX model. I removed all the rubber gaskets and soaked the carbs. Aside from some crust dirt the seals/gaskets all seem to be nice and pliable so I think I'll put her back together with the original parts. Are there any tricks when putting the carbs back on, like the oil pump setup? I can recall when removing the carbs I didn't pay attention to the arm on the oil pump, do I bring it around one turn to put the tension back onto the spring, then bring the two marks together at idle position? thanks

 

[burtshaver2021]

I would get a new gasket for the carb, after this many years it may have lost its ability to conform and cause the machine to run lean, other than that just follow the torque specs and any loctite that’s stated in the manual. Yes, rotate the oil pump lever till there’s tension on the spring and line up the marks with no throttle being applied

 

[burtshaver2021]

Did you test the needle to see if it was leaking while you had it apart? Test after it’s back together to see if it’s leaking? These tests are available in the manual or in @mikidymac carb rebuild thread

 

[Safety1st]

Did you test the needle to see if it was leaking while you had it apart? Test after it’s back together to see if it’s leaking? These tests are available in the manual or in @mikidymac carb rebuild thread

Thanks, the carb is together but I haven't tightened everything up yet so it can still easily be taken apart. I check that.

 

[Safety1st]

I would get a new gasket for the carb, after this many years it may have lost its ability to conform and cause the machine to run lean, other than that just follow the torque specs and any loctite that’s stated in the manual. Yes, rotate the oil pump lever till there’s tension on the spring and line up the marks with no throttle being applied

Thanks, while its apart I guess you are right, a new kit would give piece of mind. Where would you recommend a good kit, probably direct from Bombardier?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Thanks, while its apart I guess you are right, a new kit would give piece of mind. Where would you recommend a good kit, probably direct from Bombardier?

I meant, get a new base gasket for between the carb and the intake. I get all my parts from OSD marine. If you do end up needing a carb rebuild kit, the back to OEM kits from there are good. I was just saying while you had it off, you could do a few tests to make sure the needle is not leaking and the fuel pump is not leaking.

 

[burtshaver2021]

If you have it all together, give it a try. Maybe it will be fine, but if it doesn’t run correctly don’t keep driving it. You can’t run them to clean up the fuel system like with a 4 stroke,

 

[Safety1st]

If you have it all together, give it a try. Maybe it will be fine, but if it doesn’t run correctly don’t keep driving it. You can’t run them to clean up the fuel system like with a 4 stroke,

Thanks, the carbs are perfectly clean now, I checked the shut-offs and they are holding pressure so that should be good.
I found this excellent video on my machine, carb rebuilds with new fuel lines, exactly what I was looking for, even gets into oil pump adjustment. I'll try it like this but I will circle back and get a quality kit I think.
Here is the video, good stuff.

 

[Safety1st]

A couple of other questions if I can extend this thread. In the video I linked in, the fellow starts the machine up out of the water, is this safe to do for 15-20 seconds?
Also, in the carbs on the same side as the shut off needle, there is a 'Manifold (Thick aluminum pcs)' held in with a couple of screws t here is a small plastic flap and next to that are a couple of pin holes. I'm assuming these holes have a purpose, and with that said I can't seem to thread a fine wire through them. Are they supposed to be open? thanks

 

[burtshaver2021]

A couple of other questions if I can extend this thread. In the video I linked in, the fellow starts the machine up out of the water, is this safe to do for 15-20 seconds?
Also, in the carbs on the same side as the shut off needle, there is a 'Manifold (Thick aluminum pcs)' held in with a couple of screws t here is a small plastic flap and next to that are a couple of pin holes. I'm assuming these holes have a purpose, and with that said I can't seem to thread a fine wire through them. Are they supposed to be open? thanks

Do you mean parts 39 , 35 and 36?

 

[Safety1st]

View attachment 68115View attachment 68116
Do you mean parts 39 , 35 and 36?

Yes, 39 for sure, and 12 looks like the fine plastic flap. So where the flap lays down on the block, on each side there are very small holes.
thanks