Hello! I have a 1997 Seadoo GTX that I purchased used. When turning the handles all the way to the right or left, and opening up to full throttle, it doesn’t want to accelerate then takes off. Not sure if it is carb related, or carbon seal/boot. Took a look at the driveshaft and the boot does not snug up against carbon seal and won’t stay flush. Would this boot cause issues with turning/slow acceleration with throttle wide open?
Slow acceleration when fully turned, full throttle.
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- 1997 seadoo gtx
artr
Well-Known Member
If the boot does not hold the carbon seal firmly against the stainless steel hat then air can leak into the jetpump during hard acceleration. To replace the boot you need to remove the driveshaft and you will be able to inspect the mating surfaces of the carbon ring and steel hat. If either surface has deterioration then it would be best to replace all the parts. If you accelerate hard from a dead stop in a straight line does the engine Rev real high and then it takes off after starting to move slow at first (like a slipping clutch)? That is the problem I had with a 96 GTX and replacing the boot, carbon ring and steel hat solved the issue. I also use a neoprene ring to seal the jetpump to the hull because that is another place where air can leak into the pump.
I did not specifically look at RPMs, but I do not recalling it sounding like it was revving up. Grew up when automatics were mainstream, so not quite sure what a slipping clutch feels like. It seems like it slowly accelerates, hits a wall then rapidly accelerates.
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artr
Well-Known Member
If the engine is not reving real high before the ski starts to move under the conditions I described and then revs lower when the ski starts to accelerate then it might not be the boot and carbon seal and may be something else like carbs or a fuel restriction. Are there still gray fuel lines in the ski?
artr
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how long you owned the ski but did you replace the fuel lines? Were the carbs cleaned and rebuilt with oem parts afterwards? You mentioned fuel filters were not changed. Are these the small internal carb filters you are talking about? There should only be a single filter/water separator under the front cowl that can be cleaned. If you have an external inline fuel filter(s) installed they can cause performance problems.
I have owned the ski for about a month. I need to replace the screen on the fuel baffle (ethanol buildup) and then the filter in the front under the handle bars. Only work I did was replace the fuel float, and the issues were experienced before that as well. I have not touched anything carb related, and not sure what state they are in.
artr
Well-Known Member
If you can not reliably determine if the carbs were cleaned and rebuilt with oem parts and what procedure was used then you probably need to do it yourself. The is an excellent post to follow at the beginning of this forum. If you have the oem type fuel strainer under the front cowl the internal basket can be removed and cleaned if it is not to far gone. The o-ring seal should be inspected and replaced if it is worn. The screen on the bottom of the fuel baffle may also be cleaned if not to far gone. The fuel selector should be checked that fuel flows freely in the normal and reserve positions and is blocked in the off position. As mentioned above this work should be done before running the ski again to avoid damage if things are still gummed up from the old fuel lines. It would not hurt to check your compression before you start the other work.
I will be replacing both the screen and filter/oring prior to next ride (ordered parts). Will also take a look at the selector valve. Did a compression check recently, 145 on both. Thank you for your help. I’m relatively new to anything mechanical, so I have slowly been working on fixes. Not long ago I had the exhaust hose blow, and found out the water regulator clamp came loose in the housing. Was able to fix that. Hopefully this is the last issue I need to troubleshoot. Will take it out for test drive next week and let you know what the rpm’s are doing when I accelerate.I will look into rebuilding carbs with oem parts.
artr
Well-Known Member
It is to hard to tell from your pictures. Download the shop manual and you will find a spec for the max distance between the impeller blade and wear ring. I think it is 1mm. You can measure it with a feeler gauge if you remove the jetpump, or at least remove either the intake grate (unless you can get your hand in there) or the nozzle/reverse gate assembly. If you don't want to take everything apart now, just shine a flashlight in the intake grate and eyeball the clearance by looking into the nozzle end. If you see a large gap that is obviously bigger than 1mm then you probably need to do something.
Take the seat off,,,secure the ski to the trailer…start it up,,,rev it,,,see if water sprays out of the carbon ring.,,when the bar is fully turned,,,that is a full load on pump…if you have a fuel depravation issue,,,it can occur then,,,also,,,do a compression test to start,,,if the compression is low,,,the ski will not respond under load.
Replaced fuel filter and screen. Kinda gross. Took cover off flywheel and rode jetski today. Didn’t want to get over 6000 rpms (previously appx 5500). From standstill it took forever to accelerate, rpms just didn’t want to go higher just like previously. Quite a bit of sprayed water in hull. Pic attached. Tried to run it while attached to trailer, but it was quite wavy and didn’t push the throttle too hard. Didn’t like running while at an angle (full tank), seemed fuel starved. Will be winterizing it tomorrow. Planning to rebuild carbs (Mikuni), replace carbon seal and other parts, grease it up according to manual, and replace impeller lubricant this fall/winter. Will also be cleaning rave valves. They also seem to be adjusted tighter than what Seadoo recommends.
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artr
Well-Known Member
All that sounds about right. While you have the pump off you can check the oil for water intrusion and check how smoothly the bearing feel and rotate. If you don't need to remove the impeller because bearings, wear ring and seal are OK, then you probably want to clean up the leading edges of you impeller with a file.
artr
Well-Known Member
It could be by the look of your plugs. You could check the oil pump it set properly. You could also check the position of the hi and low speed adjustments on the carbs. I think the lows should be 1 turn out and the hi should be bottomed. Use the shop manual for the correct settings and procedures.
Other things to check: How old are the plugs? Are they the recommended heat range. Are they gapped properly. Do you have a strong consistent spark?
Other things to check: How old are the plugs? Are they the recommended heat range. Are they gapped properly. Do you have a strong consistent spark?
artr
Well-Known Member
I have a 96 and there is a parts catalog available. There may be a parts catalog for the 97 also. There is one main spring for tension on the rave valve (#11 on my diagram). There is a second circular spring that is used to hold the 2 sections of the bellows together (#10 on my diagram).
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