single vs double trailer question

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

FLKustom

New Member
Alright so I just have one ski, which I bought with a single trailer and then put about/over $400 in new axle/hubs/tires/winch/bunk board hardware, ect ect

I found my trailer pretty frustrating to back, Number one I can't really see it and number two it just seemed like it was all over the place no matter what ways I tried. Some times it's super easy to jack knife and then at other times seems completely unresponsive all together.

I thought I just sucked at backing, (though I can back a 30ft horse trailer just fine)

But I've let 2 other experienced jet ski trailer backers pull my trailer and both have said it's a pain to back my trailer.


I'm wondering if our new set up (being that I went from the mini 8inch rim small fatty tires to the 12" rim taller tires) might have something to do with it?


I was told that getting a double trailer might solve my frustrations, That they are easier to back due to their size. I obviously don't need a double trailer being that I only have one ski but I could always have a welder make a cool box set up for me to store my crap if I had a bigger trailer.

My concern is that wider trailer = wider turns ect so I might be defeating the purpose here. Is having the double trailer going to be more of a pain than it will be a help? any tips?
 
Hi,

I've found that if you remember turn steering wheel oppisite of where you want trailer to go helps some.
But driving 30' horse trailer I'm sure you know that.

If you have trouble backing up empty trailer try opening rear door if van or lower truck bed door helps to see.

A longer center square tubing may help I've read somewhere.

Otherwise tire size may not be helping but I'm no expert.
 
Small trailers are always a pain. I can back my double ski trailer in like a pro, but my little 4x8 utility trailer makes me look like a drunk monkey :)

I don't tend to have to make turns any wider, unless I'm driving my wrangler. My explorer isn't a problem.
 
The guys aRe right, the shorter the distance from the trailer axle to the pivot point (read hitch all here), the harder the trailer will be to back. That's the reason your horse trailer is easier to back. My trailer is a RoadMaster custom dual ski trailer. It is a total so 18' long, but it is much harder to back than my boat triler (total25').

You might try putting something on your trailer that is tall enough for you to see it/them all the time, especially when your ski is not on the trailer. Maybe wind guides or dune buggy whip antenna. The KEY is to be able to see when the trailer starts in a different direction than what you want to go and to correct immediately.

You can master it- after you can put that 30-footer where you want it. G-Luck!
 
Short trailer--Fast response

Long trailer--Slow response

Axle width will help you too, but not on a single.

My ShoreLandr' double is touchy, but my old Ravens double was loooong and was a breeze to back up with. Growing up on a horse farm I was forced at a young age to back up dump trucks with trailers, or even better, a hay wagon with a pivoting front axle. So not only did you have the hitch to pivot on, but also the axle. I never did well with that, I always did a pull through with them.

That being said it relative to where your axle is in relationship to the ball mount. So, your 30' horse trailer, the axle is waaaaay back from the ball. If you were to get a longer tongue for your single place trailer you'd be better off. I'm sure if you went to a REAL trailer place (not your dealer) I'm sure that they could hook you up with a longer tongue. There is a limit to how long you'd want to go, maybe 2 foot more would get you a less sensative turning radius.

If you lose sight of the trailer while backing up without your doo on it, go to a bike shop and get a whip flag that you'd put on a kids bike. Jury rig a mount to place it on the center of the rear of your trailer. And make it removable so that you only use it while backing up. Or mount something off the side of trailer so you can see it in your drivers side.

Do you hang your head out the window, or do you use your mirrors? Head hangin makes it easy but if your diligent enough to learn how to use the mirrors people will stare in amazement. I prefer the mirrors, but have found myself cheating lately doing a bit of both.

If you can and do lengthen the tongue, remember that when you make your first turn going forwards!!!!!
 
I have to post on the con side of having a double trailer, which is actually working on the ski while it's on the trailer. If you have to work on something on the inner side of the ski while on the trailer you'll find yourself crawling up on your other ski (or whatever you put there) I just bought a third ski on a single trailer and doing ANYTHING to it in the shop is easier than the 2 on my double


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Time will help, but small trailers are a pain.

I had a friend that just couldn't get it. I installed two wooden studs on the fenders and when he was at the ramp, he pushed a pool noodle over each one. Now he can see his trailer as it begins to swing and does a much better job backing it down the ramp area.
 
Thanks for the responses guys, I have gotten a lot better at it with this small trailer but once other people (who are much more experienced than me) told me they had a hard time with it as well, That's what made me think I should just get another trailer. I thought about getting the PVC guides to put on it, Maybe that would help.

I look out my mirrors when I back the trailer, Force of habit I guess. My dilemma is everything on this trailer is new now except for the galvanized frame itself. I don't want to go through that whole $$$ process again but it sure would be nice to have a trailer big enough to put a box on and keep my crap in vs putting it all in the bed of my truck.

unless of course I built on of these :thumbsup:


2whleyw.jpg
 
i have a single , i tow it with my freakin station wagon and i still cant see it , so im installing pvc floating side pylons at the back about 3feet tall, my buddy has em on his moomba trailer and they make life so much easier. plus, you can make sure the trailer is straight under water!
 
im just welding on some angle iron , hitting it with rustolium primer and black, and then mounting my pvc floats (pipe with a little foam in the end) attached with a cable stop so they dont float all the way off the metal pylons lol.
 
Well here is my hard work! I oped to weld plates to the pylons, and then bolt through the trailer. I also made pvc floats if for some reason i use a crappy ramp and have to put the trailer end in deep. the PVC float tubes are supposed to be capped , i d.ont have the caps yet, tomorrow i gotta run to the hardware store , but thats how they work as floats. and then the clear hose is used to retain the floats in case of wake (my buddy has em on his trailer , and when wake comes by the pvc floats rise off the pipes) ..........im definitely happy with the result. and it definitely makes it easier to back the trailer empty.

heres pics
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rnriilpe5og44x4/20120909_193216.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2r8mebvxjzvbx47/20120909_193135.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4siqymmv1li8jl7/20120909_193200.jpg
 
FL,

You have received some great advice so far. Let me share what I have learned in the 30 years since I backed my first trailer down the ramp.

1. Most importantly drop the tailgate and if you have a tonneau cover remove it. The view is better for step#2.

2. I am also in the habit of using my mirrors when backing a trailer........except the small ones. Look over your shoulders. Reason is by the time you can see the trailer starting to come into view in a mirror it is TOO LATE. The sooner you make a steering correction on the small trailer the straighter you will be able to back up.

3. Go slow and make small steering corrections. How slow you go will improve the "straightness" of you track. Practice in your driveway to get a feel for the right speed.

Good luck and remember practice makes perfect.

HTH,

Robert :thumbsup:
 
FL,

You have received some great advice so far.

2. The sooner you make a steering correction on the small trailer the straighter you will be able to back up.

3. Go slow and make small steering corrections.


Best advice right there. (sorry everyone else) Take your time and make minor corrections as you back down the ramp. As soon as you see the tire of the trailer on one side, minor adjustment on the wheel and let the trailer float over to the other side, and the once the tire appears on the other side, float it back once again. I'd like to say "use the force Luke", but I won't.

I back down the ramp at a comfortable speed now, that has people stopping to watch, when I started this on August 1of this year I looked like a monkey humping a football with going back and forth and all over the ramp. I quit paying attention to the rear view mirror and just started watching the sides, as my F150 has a tonneau cover, and it suddenly got a whole lot easier. I too,like you, was used to the long trailers, and trying to back up watching the handle bars of the Doo in the rear view mirror sucked.

It's just practice, something that can be done in a field or a parking lot, away from prying eyes and impatient people waiting to get their boats in the water. Good luck! :D
 
i haven't read the whole thread, but i'll summarize.

the first 3 months I had a trailer I used these, $9 at harbor freight, $12 at wallyworld. magnetic trailer guides, they stick up about 2 1/2 feet when extended.

17760_lg.jpg


stick them on the back as temporary guides, either on the back of the trailer, or just in a line on the front so you can see if your not going back str8 any more.

4 yrs later, i can back a trailer down just about anything, i've developed a "feel" for the whole process. actually the other night I was backing the car in the driveway since I knew I was going to be putting the trailer on the car in the morning, and i actually had a hard time backing in just the car, since my brain kept turning the steering wheel the way I would with a trailer attached. It was weird, i had to back in 3 times to get my dam car straight.

if I had a trailer attached, it would have been right on the first try.

also FL, I have a used short and long tongue trailers, the longer ones are definitely much easier to control and i actually have a trailer now with an extremely long tongue, long enough to weld a box on for sure, maybe instead of looking for a double, you just need a longer single, the downside is that its going to be hard for you to get a fair price for your investment on your current single.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you lengthen, just cut your tongue in about the middle, get the next size up square stock 2-3ft long, slide it on the trailer and insert the piece you cut off into the other end and weld. Easy peasy...yeah, I don't weld either but if you know someone, I have seen this done.

Kevin
 
If you lengthen, just cut your tongue in about the middle, get the next size up square stock 2-3ft long, slide it on the trailer and insert the piece you cut off into the other end and weld. Easy peasy...yeah, I don't weld either but if you know someone, I have seen this done.

Kevin

short tongues are annoying, (oops that came out wrong) just yesterday I had to borrow a buddy's trailer to move a ski and it was one of the teeny tiny trailers that wouldn't be good for anything larger than an x4. its easily 2ft shorter than my regular trailer and wow man did it handle terrible, dam near backed over two mailboxes because this little bastage kept wanting to jacknife.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top