SeaDoo XP starting issue..

[Jason997]

Hey guys my SeaDoo Xp (657x) is running great aside from the issue it has when starting it.... I know its a two stroke but it will take me and my dad 10 minutes to get it started in the water from a cold start and then we have to give it full throttle until all the flooded fuel is burned which takes about 1-2 minutes of WOT till it runs normal.. Keep in mind its on its last tank of premix 50:1 gas for its break in period. Also when its warm most times when starting you need to let it crank then give it full throttle till it catches. Other then not starting great it also idles around 1000 in water and 2500 outside of water, it tends to die if your not giving it throttle in the water. Giving it 1/4 2/4 3/4 throttle the thing runs like a dime haven't gave it full yet because its not done breaking in and because Lake Simcoe is always rough.

Thanks in Advance Jason.

 

[1of500]

Idle should be at 1500 in water 3000 out of water. Might have something to do with the issue

 

[mikidymac]

It sounds like your needle and seat is leaking causing it to flood. It is either bad or the diaphragm is holding it open.
Your idle is set too low also. Should be 3,000 out of the water and 1,400 in.

 

[Jason997]

Yeah defiantly need to fix the idle, but the needle and seat need a tune up? I'm assuming I'm going to have to take apart the carbs.

 

[Jason997]

What do you mean the diaphragm is holding it open?

 

[Jason997]

Before i rebuilt the ski i re-did the carbs myself. i didn't even attempt to mess with the needles i just did the basics. gaskets and diaphragms etc.

 

[Mickirig1]

Check pop off with a gauge? Low speed and high speed screws set to spec? Pulse line replaced and clamps tight? Low speed screw set to smooth idle, then idle speed set with idle screw on throttle bell crank? Pop off tester can also be used to test for air leaks in fuels system. Pull choke all the way out when attempting to first start. It draws fuel to carb faster.

 

[mikidymac]

The needle and seat should always be replaced with a carb rebuild. They stop the engine from flooding when shut off.
If you didn't use genuine Mikuni diaphragms the aftermarket ones are too stiff and can hold the needle open flooding the engine too.
As mickirig said a pop off tester can help pinpoint the cause.

 

[jhjesse]

Up the idle a little bit. Change the spark plugs and stop premixing. One tank of premix on a rebuild is all you need.

 

[Jason997]

I'm planning on rebuilding the carb this winter it should be fine to take the carbs off after its winterized right?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Do you have Grey Tempo Fuel lines?
When you rebuilt the carbs, did you use OEM Gaskets or an aftermarket kit?

 

[Jason997]

Fuel lines redone I'm pretty sure I used oem for the carb kit as well when I get home I'll will tune the idle to 3k and change to a fresh set of plugs that I have been waiting to install.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Fuel lines redone I'm pretty sure I used oem for the carb kit as well when I get home I'll will tune the idle to 3k and change to a fresh set of plugs that I have been waiting to install.

If you didn't use OEM, that i part of the issue. As mentioned above, the diaphragms are stiffer and keep the needle elevated and allow fuel to leak into the cylinders. Bottom line, if they were not OEM, then you need to redo the rebuild.

 

[Jason997]

Yep I'm going to be redoing them at the end of this season which I'm sure isn't far away.

 

[Jason997]

This is my idle screw right?

 

[1of500]

Yes that's it