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Seadoo XP Bogging Down

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First thing I would do is check all the fittings and clamps like johngtx suggested. If you dont find any loose then do a pressure test on the entire fuel system. I believe the manual gives instructions on this. You can use a pop off guage to do it as you dont need a huge amount of pressure. If you don't own one already go ahead and buy one cause you can't get your carbs right without one. Based on what you have said I still believe its a fuel delivery problem not RAVE associated. That being said, pulling and cleaning the RAVES is something that should be done occasionally anyway so it's not gonna hurt anything. Sorry to hear you are still having issues with it. Don't give up and keep us posted. You will get it fixed. You haven't lost the war unless you surrender and give up. :thumbsup: Unless the internals in the engine or the airbox have been changed there is no reason to go changing jets. Stock jets will run just fine if everything else is functioning properly. Take the ski home and start tinkering with it yourself. I will give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt and say he isnt trying to screw you but just really doesnt know what to do so therefore he is guessing. Eitherway you are waisting time and money doing this. Money you could be spending to actually fix your ski.
 
When i went down to Durban, it was 100 % for about 30 minutes then the problem started

Technically i haven't ridden a single session without an issue with the ski

My mechanic seems to be making it worse rather than better
 
First thing I would do is check all the fittings and clamps like johngtx suggested. If you dont find any loose then do a pressure test on the entire fuel system. I believe the manual gives instructions on this. You can use a pop off guage to do it as you dont need a huge amount of pressure. If you don't own one already go ahead and buy one cause you can't get your carbs right without one. Based on what you have said I still believe its a fuel delivery problem not RAVE associated. That being said, pulling and cleaning the RAVES is something that should be done occasionally anyway so it's not gonna hurt anything. Sorry to hear you are still having issues with it. Don't give up and keep us posted. You will get it fixed. You haven't lost the war unless you surrender and give up. :thumbsup: Unless the internals in the engine or the airbox have been changed there is no reason to go changing jets. Stock jets will run just fine if everything else is functioning properly. Take the ski home and start tinkering with it yourself. I will give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt and say he isnt trying to screw you but just really doesnt know what to do so therefore he is guessing. Eitherway you are waisting time and money doing this. Money you could be spending to actually fix your ski.

Thanks Summer

It's just soo frustrating having it but can't enjoy it

I actually have the ski home with me, don't think i'm sending it back to that mechanic, wasted way too much time and money with him

Exactly, he should just admit that he can't fix it and we move on

Wonder if that 13B rotary turbo conversion will work in my ski ;-)
 
Will try that, that at least seems easy enough lol

Mind my ignorance but what do the RAVE valves do ?
283.jpg
 
Thanks Summer

It's just soo frustrating having it but can't enjoy it

QUOTE]

Know exactly what you mean. I bought mine in early august and was told it ran fine. It apart in my garage now. Never got a chance to enjoy it this season. :ack:
 
Thanks Summer

It's just soo frustrating having it but can't enjoy it

QUOTE]

Know exactly what you mean. I bought mine in early august and was told it ran fine. It apart in my garage now. Never got a chance to enjoy it this season. :ack:

When we buy 2nd hand, we never truly know what we buying into hey

These are such amazing machines but very temperamental

I will be over the moon if i can just getting it running 100 %
 
Thanks Molotok

Do you know if it matters if it doesn't rev properly out the water compared to in the water ?


Well, when you say out of water, do you mean, if you are at home, and hook the hose adapter, and then run the engine?

If i remember correctly, you said the ski ran fine for a little while, and then had issues, so maybe you arent running it long enough to experience the same issues on the hose?

Just spit-balling here
 
Well, when you say out of water, do you mean, if you are at home, and hook the hose adapter, and then run the engine?

If i remember correctly, you said the ski ran fine for a little while, and then had issues, so maybe you arent running it long enough to experience the same issues on the hose?

Just spit-balling here

Yip, i mean on the trailer

I did run okay for a bit this past weekend but could not go past 50 MPH and 5.5 k RPM at best

Could be, thanks for the info

No harm in trying
 
Yip, i mean on the trailer

I did run okay for a bit this past weekend but could not go past 50 MPH and 5.5 k RPM at best

Could be, thanks for the info

No harm in trying

Also, the Rave Solenoids may not be functioning properly
284.jpg


and check for anything else that could be restricting exhaust flow
 
I have also seen the same issues when a reed is broken...but it doesnt make sense if the other carbs took care of it. Now...I need to ask...are you POSITIVE all he did was the carbs when it ran correctly??
 
Also, the Rave Solenoids may not be functioning properly
284.jpg


and check for anything else that could be restricting exhaust flow

Did you get all that from the service manual ?

Oh, almost forgot. I pulled of the leads to the spark plug and noticed that the one spark plug's tip was a bit loose

The Silver park on top (Connector), where the leads connect onto. i could turn it with my hand, not the entire spark plug. Just that silver top part

See below

http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/ignition-system-spark-plug.gif
 
I have also seen the same issues when a reed is broken...but it doesnt make sense if the other carbs took care of it. Now...I need to ask...are you POSITIVE all he did was the carbs when it ran correctly??

According to him, thats all he did and it ran 100 %
 
You know guys we are all just trouble shooting and throwing ideas out here trying to help. In my opinion based on other things said about the mechanic, unless you were at the water and saw and heard it running "correctly" as he stated, I would pay no attention to that comment. If that was in fact true then the problem would still have to be in the carbs and not the raves, reeds or anything else.
 
You know guys we are all just trouble shooting and throwing ideas out here trying to help. In my opinion based on other things said about the mechanic, unless you were at the water and saw and heard it running "correctly" as he stated, I would pay no attention to that comment. If that was in fact true then the problem would still have to be in the carbs and not the raves, reeds or anything else.

Yeah, his definition of running "Correctly" is obviously different to mine

Really appreciate all the help
 
Did you get all that from the service manual ?

Oh, almost forgot. I pulled of the leads to the spark plug and noticed that the one spark plug's tip was a bit loose

The Silver park on top (Connector), where the leads connect onto. i could turn it with my hand, not the entire spark plug. Just that silver top part

See below

http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/ignition-system-spark-plug.gif

Ya, that bit screws on, you can tighten it with pliers or something. I havent looked at the plug wires, but some setups require you remove that little cover, and use just the threaded portion underneath.

Off the top of my head, I believe I saw the tips on the plugs I found inside the hull of my ski :lol: but who knows if thats how its supposed to go, as it wasnt in working order when I got it.


A side comment, would be....and this is just my opinion.....never trust a mechanic unless you are personally close, even then, take it with a grain of salt. I was ripped off and lied to over and over before I finally swore off taking my cars/bikes/ect to someone else to work on. They seem to mostly care about money, and never want to fess up when they have done something wrong.

Again, my experience, YMMV
 
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Might just get some new plugs for peace of mind lol

I agree with you 100 %, these mechanics are all money diggers. I have spent soo much so far and been going around in circles here

Like the saying goes, if you want something done right, do it yourself

It's like a guessing game for them, it something doesn't work then try something else without trying to diagnose the problem

What they don't seem to understand is that it costs money each time, either that or they just don't care
 
I had a tech instructor say years ago that most mechanics are not mechanics at all. They are parts salesman cause all they now how to do is sell parts in the hopes that one of them will eventually fix your issue. Instead of using a shop manual they use a parts catalog.

Sadly in my years I have come to see that he was correct.
 
I had a tech instructor say years ago that most mechanics are not mechanics at all. They are parts salesman cause all they now how to do is sell parts in the hopes that one of them will eventually fix your issue. Instead of using a shop manual they use a parts catalog.

Sadly in my years I have come to see that he was correct.

I will get my knowledge in time, for now at least i have forums like this

They will probably sell you a whole engine if they could help it
 
It would suck if all it was....was the plugs. I have rechecked rebuilt carbs (on my own dime) and come to find out they had a plug that was intermittent. I got lucky as it completely failed about the time I was going to give up. You hardly see bad plugs...so its easy to overlook. Also if possible get SOLID top plugs. Those screw on ones can cause problems like you are having.

I agree...if the guy cant figure it out its time to start from square one.

I always like to see guys try to tackle their own machines...but many people just dont have it in them to do the work themselves. In my experience the small guys are your best bet. They will try harder to make you happy. When you talk with someone on the phone if they wont talk on the phone and just tell you to bring it in....dont. They should have the time to give you 5-10 minutes to troubleshoot. Another great indicator is ask if they ride and what their personal machines are. If a mechanic loves the sport, they will own them too.

I bend over backwards for my customers.
 
It would suck if all it was....was the plugs. I have rechecked rebuilt carbs (on my own dime) and come to find out they had a plug that was intermittent. I got lucky as it completely failed about the time I was going to give up. You hardly see bad plugs...so its easy to overlook. Also if possible get SOLID top plugs. Those screw on ones can cause problems like you are having.

I agree...if the guy cant figure it out its time to start from square one.

I always like to see guys try to tackle their own machines...but many people just dont have it in them to do the work themselves. In my experience the small guys are your best bet. They will try harder to make you happy. When you talk with someone on the phone if they wont talk on the phone and just tell you to bring it in....dont. They should have the time to give you 5-10 minutes to troubleshoot. Another great indicator is ask if they ride and what their personal machines are. If a mechanic loves the sport, they will own them too.

I bend over backwards for my customers.

It's amazing how the biggest problems are always caused by the smallest things

Thats the difference, if a mechanic gives his all to his customers then the world would be a better place :-)

I actually got myself a compression and vacuum tester

I think each cylinder should be around 150 PSI, i'm basically going to ignore whatever has been done so far and start from scratch

Have no idea how to use the vacuum tester but google is my friend lol
 
I assume the vacuum tester can be made into a pressure tester...which you will use for the pop off test on the carbs.
 
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