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Seadoo XP Bogging Down

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Viashen

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Hi Guys

I am new to the forum and from South Africa

I got myself a 2000 Seadoo XP Limited

I bought it in April and only got everything licensed and transfered recently

I took it down the dam, this being the first time that i'm riding it since i bought it

The first half an hour or so the Ski ran 100 %

hit 7000RPM and over 60MPH every time

After that the Ski started bogging down, the revs would bounce between 4000 and 5000 RPM

When i play with the accelerator it will come right for a few seconds then act up again

the Revs then started stopping at 6000 RPM and i couldn't go more than 50MPH

Towards the end of the day it came right for another 10 minutes or so then started acting up again

I really don't know much about the Ski and how everything works etc

i do have the parts catalogue and the service manual

What could be causing it ?

I did some searching at it could be anything from dirt to the rectifier by the sounds of it

Oh, 1 more thing. Is the petrol gauge suposed to be on when the ski is not started and the key is not connected ?

Thanks i Advance

Regards
Viashen
 
I'd start by going through the fuel system,fuel lines,filter(s),carbs and selector valve.

Thanks Black Charger, i see that the Grey fuel line issue pops up alot, i checked last night and i still have the grey fuel lines

I will try get some fuel line this weekend and replace it

I also ordered a compresion tester to make sure everything is 100 %


Do you know if the fuel gauge is supposed to stay on when the ski is off and the key is out ?
 
The Tempo fuel lines are the root of the issue. They decay, and send stuff into the carbs.

So... replace all the fuel lines with regular rubber hoses... clean the carbs... clean the fuel select valve... and clean the filter.
 
The Tempo fuel lines are the root of the issue. They decay, and send stuff into the carbs.

So... replace all the fuel lines with regular rubber hoses... clean the carbs... clean the fuel select valve... and clean the filter.

Thanks Dr Honda

Planning on doing it this weekend if i can

The guys also spoke about NAPPA fuel lines being the best to replace them with, i'm not sure if i can get that brand here in South Africa

What other brands will be okay ?

One last thing, about the Fuel Gauge thing

Is the Fuel Gauge suppose to be on when the ski is off and the key is out ?

I can even sill use the VTS when the ski is off

I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like this or not
 
in the USA... NAPA is a chain of stores. Just buy a good quality, black rubber, automotive fuel hose. (whatever brand you can get)


The MPEM ( the computer) will keep power on the system for a little while... but if it's not shutting down after about 10~15 seconds... then there is a problem. If the power is always on... then either your lanyard post is bad (and keeping power on ) or the MPEM has a problem.
 
in the USA... NAPA is a chain of stores. Just buy a good quality, black rubber, automotive fuel hose. (whatever brand you can get)


The MPEM ( the computer) will keep power on the system for a little while... but if it's not shutting down after about 10~15 seconds... then there is a problem. If the power is always on... then either your lanyard post is bad (and keeping power on ) or the MPEM has a problem.

I'll see what i can find this weekend

I think i might have to send it in

Could it be the rectifier by any chance ?

I landed up putting a switch o the 15A fuse where the power cable goes into the MPEM

Works fine for cutting off power to the ski but i'm not sure if it's good enough for a proper solution
 
Forgot to mention that the fuel gauge and VTS stay on when the ski is off but i can't start the ski or anything
 
Hi Guys

Just an Update, The ski has been to them mechanic and the below has been done

Service

Carbs cleaned, 1 diaphram was damaged so replaced both

All fuel lines changed from grey ones to black automotive ones, even the lines on the carbs

Impeller, pump etc all checked and according to the mech it all looks good

On the trailer the ski seems to rev all the way, idles about +-3k RPM

So i took it to the dam

In the water the idle is around 1k RPM

I cruise out just past the no wake zone and floor it, it starts boggig down still then i release the throttle and press again a few times then it takes

It goes to around 5000 RPM and 40 MPH then slowly to about 5500 RPM and 45/47 MPH

It refuses to go more than that

It tends to trouble the most when i hold the throttle Wide open, revs start jumping etc

On 3 quater Throttle its better

This Ski is driving me insane

Please help guys, not sure where to go from here

Should i just sell this stupid thing :-(
 
Just another thing

Seems to be worse when i have a passenger, The problem seems to be when the ski is in the water and under load
 
Your idle is a bit low. Try turning the idle screw up a bit so that it's around 1500rpm in the water. Also make sure the fuel selector isn't sucking air past the o-ring in the valve body. If in doubt replace the selector. Try this, Run the fuel selector on Reserve and see if it runs better. This will give a good indication if it's working properly or not.

Have you replaced the spark plugs at all/lately? Also check your oiling system for proper operation. Don't forget that compression test.
 
Your idle is a bit low. Try turning the idle screw up a bit so that it's around 1500rpm in the water. Also make sure the fuel selector isn't sucking air past the o-ring in the valve body. If in doubt replace the selector. Try this, Run the fuel selector on Reserve and see if it runs better. This will give a good indication if it's working properly or not.

Have you replaced the spark plugs at all/lately? Also check your oiling system for proper operation. Don't forget that compression test.

Hi Rotor13B

I'll tell the mechanic to increase it a bit

When in the water i tried running it on the RES selection but was doing the same thing :-(

Yip, full service was done, new plugs and filters etc plus a carb clean

I haven't personally done a compression test, should be around 150 i think

I have absolutely no luck with these things :-(
 
Hi All

So i have some good news and some bad news

The mechanic put a different set of carbs on from another ski and took it out, was working like a demon. 65 average and he said almost 70 on the calm long sections

Now here is the bad news, apparently i'm suppose to have a fuel pump that attaches to the carbs

anyone know about this ?

I have no idea why it isn't there, i contacted the guy i bought the ski from and he has no clue

Anyone know why the fuel pump would have been removed or where i can get a replacement shipped to South Africa ?

I don't even know what it's suppose to look like but i'm guessing it's like the below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Fue...49305921&pt=Personal_Watercraft_Parts&vxp=mtr

Any help would be appreciated
 
First thing I would do is find another mechanic. If they went through and did all the stuff you say they did why did no one ask about or mention the missing fuel pump before? Funny how they notice stuff wrong AFTER you bring it back the second time. If a new set of carbs fixed the problem then either they didn't clean yours properly or there is something else wrong with them that the mechanic missed or didnt bother fix and didnt tell you about. Another reason to find another mechanic. Im no expert but not knowing the history of the machine I think they should have just automatically replaced everything in the carbs. All the seals and diaphragms that come in the kits.
 
First thing I would do is find another mechanic. If they went through and did all the stuff you say they did why did no one ask about or mention the missing fuel pump before? Funny how they notice stuff wrong AFTER you bring it back the second time. If a new set of carbs fixed the problem then either they didn't clean yours properly or there is something else wrong with them that the mechanic missed or didnt bother fix and didnt tell you about. Another reason to find another mechanic. Im no expert but not knowing the history of the machine I think they should have just automatically replaced everything in the carbs. All the seals and diaphragms that come in the kits.

Thanks for reply

I think you are right, this mechanic has sent me from pillar to post with different stories

I did carb clean and service, new diaphragms. when that didn't work i bought 2 carb kits and he installed that. now all of a sudden i'm missing a part

this may be a stupid question but will the ski even start and run if there is no fuel pump on the carb ?

I mean it runs on the trailer just fine, also runs in the water but keeps bogging down and won't go past 50 MPH and 6k RPM

I mean, how does it do this without a fuel pump
 
the fuel pump is operated via the pulses of pressure in the crankcase, which pushes fuel through a check valve. if the pump was not on the carb, it would not be running.
 
are you sure he wasnt talking about the accelerator pump? It would probably still run as you mentioned, but probably not at full speed. It would not run at all without a fuel pump...
 
He specifically mentioned the fuel pump

Thats whats confusing me

@CReynoldsMIZ, is the accelerator inside the carb ?

He said it's the fuel pump thats mounted on the carb housing

Is the mechanic taking me for a ride here :-(

The Ski starts and revs all the way when it's on the trailer. Just in water is when it troubles
 
The accelerator pump is mounted to the external surface of the rear or PTO carb.. It gives a shot of fuel only once when ever you press the throttle or accelerate. Hense the name. If you are holding the throttle at a constant speed the accelerator is doing nothing. It only pumps when you actually squeeze the throttle. Only one carb has a fuel pump and thats the front or mag carb. The one pump supplies both carbs.
Here is a parts breakdown that may help you http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche...y=Watercraft&make=Sea-Doo&year=2000&fveh=2346
You can run one just fine without the accelerator pump as a lot of folks do it. To my knowledge you have to rejet the carbs to do so. It requires a bit bigger jets to flow more fuel that the accelerator pump no longer gives it.
 
The accelerator pump is mounted to the external surface of the rear or PTO carb.. It gives a shot of fuel only once when ever you press the throttle or accelerate. Hense the name. If you are holding the throttle at a constant speed the accelerator is doing nothing. It only pumps when you actually squeeze the throttle. Only one carb has a fuel pump and thats the front or mag carb. The one pump supplies both carbs.
Here is a parts breakdown that may help you http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche...y=Watercraft&make=Sea-Doo&year=2000&fveh=2346
You can run one just fine without the accelerator pump as a lot of folks do it. To my knowledge you have to rejet the carbs to do so. It requires a bit bigger jets to flow more fuel that the accelerator pump no longer gives it.

Thanks Summer

I think i'm going to pop past the Mechanic as soon as i can and take some pics of the so called missing part

Will post it here, should make things easier to understand
 
So spoke to the mechanic again

The carbs are back on the bike so i couldn't get any pics of the missing fuel pump

He basically said that there is a metal plate there instead of the fuel pump

Could this be some sort of attempt at a mod or a cheap fix maybe
 
No, it means that your mechanic (or the person posing as one) knows nothing about the twin carb setup on these models. The mag carb has the fuel pump on it and the pto carb has a metal plate installed in the place of the pump beacuse it doesnt need or use one. This plate has just a nipple of it and there is a line from the front carb to this nipple that feeds fuel to the pto carb. From his description sounds like your parts are just fine, you just need someone that knows how to go through them and clean and adjust properly.

I say this based solely on my experience with my GTXL which has the twin carbed 951 just as believe yours does. If I am incorrect someone let me know because I don't want to be giving out incorrect info and making someone's problem worse.

Im curious to know what carbs he installed that supposidly ran great for his test run. :mad:
 
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No, it means that your mechanic (or the person posing as one) knows nothing about the twin carb setup on these models. The mag carb has the fuel pump on it and the pto carb has a metal plate installed in the place of the pump beacuse it doesnt need or use one. This plate has just a nipple of it and there is a line from the front carb to this nipple that feeds fuel to the pto carb. From his description sounds like your parts are just fine, you just need someone that knows how to go through them and clean and adjust properly.

I say this based solely on my experience with my GTXL which has the twin carbed 951 just as believe yours does. If I am incorrect someone let me know because I don't want to be giving out incorrect info and making someone's problem worse.

Im curious to know what carbs he installed that supposidly ran great for his test run. :mad:

Thanks Summer

I think the best thing to do ask him to pull the carbs off and let me take a look for myself and take some pics

Going by description is not the best sometimes

He said it was from another XP Limited 951 motor

Thanks again for the help

Much appreciated
 
Well thats up to you if you want to give him any more money, but I can completely understand wanting to actually see what he is talking about. If you do have him do that I would ask to see the carbs off the other motor he installed. I can only assume those have a single pump like yours and he maybe just hasnt realized it. Worst case scenerio, since he claims it ran fine with "his" carbs on it, see if he will guarantee this and just buy the two he has and let him install them. Providing he doesn't want an astronomical price for them. If in fact you do this see if he will take your carbs in as trade of some type or if not keep them and sell them yourself to recoop some of your greenbacks.
 
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