seadoo fuel gauge repairs in one posting...sticky?

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99speedster

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After doing a lot of searching here and there---I finally got my fuel gauge working again!
:cheers:
Thanks to this forum and the great members.
I tried to put most of the relavent posts together as well as the float part number to save everyone time.


As has been covered several times I am sure, my fuel float was full of fuel and would sink instantly....But I also had electrical issues that I was unsure what to do with. Anyhow here is a very interesting link to repairing your fuel sending unit when they have F1 fuse problem.

F1 fuse replacement
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=5826


I did cut the sending unit open with a cut-off wheel on a dremel so my cuts where a lot cleaner to aid in the welding of the parts back shut made easier. I used a butane soldering iron to do my F1 wire repair. Also note I did use a small piece of copper wire from the one circuit to the other instead of a glob of solder like was done in the link to complete the circuit replacing the F1 fuse. I used my butane iron to plastic weld the unit back together using tie-straps as the filler. I would'nt be afraid to use a product like JB weld either---I was going to use JB weld as back-up if the plastic welding did'nt work--but it worked wonderfully.

Here are the reading you should get as you sweep the float through the range of motion when measuring
the pink and the pink/black wire with a digital volt ohm meter on the sending unit.
0.01~ Full
0.23~3/4 tank
0.45~1/2 tank
0.68~1/4 tank
0.90~empty

The full and empty numbers will be pretty consistant, but the numbers inbetween may be slightly one way or another.


Here is the part number of the float that "most" seadoo dealers have in stock that works on the boats--although it "unsually" does not cross-referance to any boat(at least that was what the parts man said) --it does works fine......


Seadoo part number.............295500438 with a retail price of $9.99

hope this helps....

C U on the water!​
 
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refresh the fix's

I had another person ask me about the fuel guage repair--so I thought I would bring it to the top so it was easier for him to find....

I have about 120 hours on my boat from july until october--and the fuel gauge worked flawlessly!

:cheers:

99speedster
 
F1 Fuse and baffle repair.

You guys are geniuses. Thank you so much for the help here in the forums.

I would suggest using a small dremel wheel or the Weller flat spade end to cut through the plastic housing though. I used a 1/8" cut off wheel and was really trying to be easy, but still managed to hit the board. LOL,,so much for that F1 fuse, it wasn't even there when I got there. Well, I decided I needed to take a break so that I didn't break it any worse than it was already(anger management).

Soldered the known F1 fuse location and then went on to repair the other nics in the solder connections from my mistake. Put the OHM meter to it, and honestly wasn't sure if I got it soldered correctly or not. SO I put it back in the tank, powered it all up, and HOLY GAUCAMOLE BATMAN,,,,,,,,we have a fuel gauge!!!!! I nearly fell out of the boat I was so happy. My daughter running around screaming"YOU"RE THE GREATEST DADDY!!!!!"...She is only 4, so it make me really proud to hear her say that. I hope she does that on date nights.

LMAO, anyway, you guys, cuddos to you.:cheers:
 
Did the fix!

I started this task last night. Kinda fubar'd the the plastic ( dont make two openings like in the sticky'd how to) The upper opening was not useful at all and I managed to really goof up the plastic there. The second opening (where the fuse is) turned out nice! I removed the burnt fuse and soldered the connections and bam working fuel gauge. I was stoked! This is the first time the gauge has ever worked since I bought the boat over a year ago! Thanks to all for there contributions!
 
I want to double check what I've read correctly. So, instead for REPLACE F1 fuse, you just remove the F1 fuse and HARD WIRE TOGETHER. It's mean DON"T use any more fuse in F1 location ?
 
I started this task last night. Kinda fubar'd the the plastic ( dont make two openings like in the sticky'd how to) The upper opening was not useful at all and I managed to really goof up the plastic there. The second opening (where the fuse is) turned out nice! I removed the burnt fuse and soldered the connections and bam working fuel gauge. I was stoked! This is the first time the gauge has ever worked since I bought the boat over a year ago! Thanks to all for there contributions!

i did this repair a few years back and posted some xray pics i took to find the exact spot to cut here's the link http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?27032-1999-challenger-1800&p=119131#post119131
 
I own a 2000 GTI. I did the repair by soldering the F1 fuse. After I re-installed the baffle and plugged in the key, my fuel guage worked for the first time since I bought my seadoo. However, when I try to start the seadoo I blow the 5 amp fuse every time. The fuse is fine when I initially plug in the key and I get the expected beeps. But when I push the button to start, the fuse will blow. Have I created a short in the baffle circuit board? or in the wires leading into it? how can I test this? i have an electrical tester. Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
 
I own a 2000 GTI. I did the repair by soldering the F1 fuse. After I re-installed the baffle and plugged in the key, my fuel guage worked for the first time since I bought my seadoo. However, when I try to start the seadoo I blow the 5 amp fuse every time. The fuse is fine when I initially plug in the key and I get the expected beeps. But when I push the button to start, the fuse will blow. Have I created a short in the baffle circuit board? or in the wires leading into it? how can I test this? i have an electrical tester. Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

make sure the soldier is not touching any of the other tracks on the board except across f1 . you may want to try unplugging the wiring harnes and starting the seadoo and see if it still blows the other fuse
 
I unplugged the wires from the baffle and the fuse still blows when I try to start it. I guess something else is causing the fuse to blow. Putting the key in doesn't blow the fuse. It only blows when I push the start button.
 
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