I have 4 jet skis and all have the same problem, the original safety cut out switches (on the dash) are plastic and all are broken off just below the thread on the switch assembly. I am trying to source a replacement but do not want to buy the plastic type as they will only break off again and at $120 x 4 wont be cheap. Anyone have any ideas for a suitable replacement. Cheers from a land down under.Lowthg
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Safety cut switch for 95 XP,HX x2, SPX
- Thread starter lowthg
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Any boat type lanyard switch should work. No DESS's in those years.
Karl
Karl
Thanks Karl,
Just bought two units from the local marine shop, thought I was on a winner but the safety cut out switches with lanyard $19.50 each turned out to be wired the opposite way I require them to be. Without the lanyard attached the motor will start and with the lanyard attached the motor will not start ???? because the are a sealled unit and only to pole I will have to have a look at another allternative. some kind of (Momentary (On) Push Button Switch) they call it. I will go on the hunt tommora for something from the local electronics shop. Thanks again from a land down under lowthg
Just bought two units from the local marine shop, thought I was on a winner but the safety cut out switches with lanyard $19.50 each turned out to be wired the opposite way I require them to be. Without the lanyard attached the motor will start and with the lanyard attached the motor will not start ???? because the are a sealled unit and only to pole I will have to have a look at another allternative. some kind of (Momentary (On) Push Button Switch) they call it. I will go on the hunt tommora for something from the local electronics shop. Thanks again from a land down under lowthg
Repaired my lanyard switch post
I ran across this thread right after my lanyard post broke off on my 1996 HX last month.
Since I wasn't going to be able to get the $135 switch in time for a houseboat trip, I was already planning on improvising a solution.
I dismantled the factory switch. The rubber switch "clicker" is fine. So if you still have the plunger and spring parts, then you can reuse everything.
The fix that I came up with required obtaining an old school toggle switch from a local electronics shop.
What is special about the switch is that the threads must be the same pitch as the plastic nut (for that factory look).
It must have a metal body - the threads and the top plate it mounts to must be a single piece.
It must be readily disassembled to allow the top half of the switch body to mount to the bottom half of the Seadoo switch body.
The threaded section must be roughly the same height as the factory plastic threaded section.
Here is a photo of the switch I took apart to do this:
I had to drill out the center to make the inside diameter wide enough to slide the plunger through - make sure to file it out so there are no rough burrs inside.
I used all kinds of zip-tie action to secure the new metal part to where the plastic plate/threads used to be. It takes 8 hands to hold the plunger and spring in place while stacking everything back together.:ack:
In theory you could use more professional looking fasteners than zip-ties......epoxy, rivets,etc.
But the repair took all of 15 minutes of fiddling around.
And I got to use my HX on the houseboat trip after all.
I ran across this thread right after my lanyard post broke off on my 1996 HX last month.
Since I wasn't going to be able to get the $135 switch in time for a houseboat trip, I was already planning on improvising a solution.
I dismantled the factory switch. The rubber switch "clicker" is fine. So if you still have the plunger and spring parts, then you can reuse everything.
The fix that I came up with required obtaining an old school toggle switch from a local electronics shop.
What is special about the switch is that the threads must be the same pitch as the plastic nut (for that factory look).
It must have a metal body - the threads and the top plate it mounts to must be a single piece.
It must be readily disassembled to allow the top half of the switch body to mount to the bottom half of the Seadoo switch body.
The threaded section must be roughly the same height as the factory plastic threaded section.
Here is a photo of the switch I took apart to do this:
I had to drill out the center to make the inside diameter wide enough to slide the plunger through - make sure to file it out so there are no rough burrs inside.
I used all kinds of zip-tie action to secure the new metal part to where the plastic plate/threads used to be. It takes 8 hands to hold the plunger and spring in place while stacking everything back together.:ack:
In theory you could use more professional looking fasteners than zip-ties......epoxy, rivets,etc.
But the repair took all of 15 minutes of fiddling around.
And I got to use my HX on the houseboat trip after all.
timmyboy76
New Member
:agree:..........AWESOME.
Yeks, it looks like Frankenstein...But a $$$ saver.
Karl
Karl
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