2001 Challenger 1800 240 EFI M2 Gen 1 cranks but does not start

[1800 Challenger 01]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2001 Challenger 1800 240 EFI M2 Gen 1.
I recently got this boat fixed and had 2 trips only on it.
Previous issue was that boat was starting every time, but then dying after 2-3 seconds and the reason was because not all cylinders were firing because of a bad trigger.

Work done on boat since last year and engine only ran for 2 hours since:
- High pressure pump in the VST was changed last year.
- The inline fuel filter attached to the primer pump was cleaned last year.
- I changed the water separator filter last year.
- New battery last year.
- Changed spark plugs 2 weeks ago
- TPS sensor was changed recently.
- Trigger assembly changed recently 2 weeks ago (That was the main reason behind my previous issue).
- Reverse cable changed (but pretty sure not related to ignition)
- Idle stop screw has been played with somehow, and I had to calibrate it, but it is still not 100%.
- Compression test was done 2 weeks ago and was 120 PSI across all 6 cylinders.

I was on the water and boat ran fine for 45 minutes or so. We decided to take a break and shut engine off. I did that by coming down to idle and then removing the lanyard. Engine shut off as expected. After stopping for about 45 minutes or so, the engine will not start at all. No matter what I tried to do.
These are the symptoms:
- All gauges are working
- I can hear the beep on key on, I can hear the priming pump
- When starting, the starter works fine and turns over the flywheel
- But, I don't feel any firing (I didn't test for spark, but it looks like there is none)
- Symptoms are similar to lanyard being removed (All power available, cranks, but no start)

I tried the following:
- Bypassed the lanyard kill switch by removing disconnecting the wire plug behind the dash.
- Checked all the fuses (or I think all) (4 fuses close to the battery, 3 fuses on startboard side, another 20 amps on startboard side, one fuse on port side, some fuses behind the dashboard). All fuses seemed fine.
- I found a Black/yellow wire on top behind the flywheel, I disconnected it and tried again, same thing.
- Even though the starter seemed strong, I still tried adding a battery booster to make sure I got enough power, same thing.
- I tried to adjust the idle screw a little bit in case it was completely closed or so, but no luck
- Boat has no throttle gaurdian

We had to get towed back unfortunately. Even after that long 1 hour wait, I tried starting again, same symptoms.

I did not overdo the starting just to be safe, but when I start for 5-10 seconds or so, I see some smoke coming up from the engine sides/front (not sure where from exactly). Not sure if that is normal and a bad sign.

All help is appreciated.
Thanks everyone.

 

[Tim75]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2001 Challenger 1800 240 EFI M2 Gen 1.
I recently got this boat fixed and had 2 trips only on it.
Previous issue was that boat was starting every time, but then dying after 2-3 seconds and the reason was because not all cylinders were firing because of a bad trigger.

Work done on boat since last year and engine only ran for 2 hours since:
- High pressure pump in the VST was changed last year.
- The inline fuel filter attached to the primer pump was cleaned last year.
- I changed the water separator filter last year.
- New battery last year.
- Changed spark plugs 2 weeks ago
- TPS sensor was changed recently.
- Trigger assembly changed recently 2 weeks ago (That was the main reason behind my previous issue).
- Reverse cable changed (but pretty sure not related to ignition)
- Idle stop screw has been played with somehow, and I had to calibrate it, but it is still not 100%.
- Compression test was done 2 weeks ago and was 120 PSI across all 6 cylinders.

I was on the water and boat ran fine for 45 minutes or so. We decided to take a break and shut engine off. I did that by coming down to idle and then removing the lanyard. Engine shut off as expected. After stopping for about 45 minutes or so, the engine will not start at all. No matter what I tried to do.
These are the symptoms:
- All gauges are working
- I can hear the beep on key on, I can hear the priming pump
- When starting, the starter works fine and turns over the flywheel
- But, I don't feel any firing (I didn't test for spark, but it looks like there is none)
- Symptoms are similar to lanyard being removed (All power available, cranks, but no start)

I tried the following:
- Bypassed the lanyard kill switch by removing disconnecting the wire plug behind the dash.
- Checked all the fuses (or I think all) (4 fuses close to the battery, 3 fuses on startboard side, another 20 amps on startboard side, one fuse on port side, some fuses behind the dashboard). All fuses seemed fine.
- I found a Black/yellow wire on top behind the flywheel, I disconnected it and tried again, same thing.
- Even though the starter seemed strong, I still tried adding a battery booster to make sure I got enough power, same thing.
- I tried to adjust the idle screw a little bit in case it was completely closed or so, but no luck
- Boat has no throttle gaurdian

We had to get towed back unfortunately. Even after that long 1 hour wait, I tried starting again, same symptoms.

I did not overdo the starting just to be safe, but when I start for 5-10 seconds or so, I see some smoke coming up from the engine sides/front (not sure where from exactly). Not sure if that is normal and a bad sign.

All help is appreciated.
Thanks everyone.

Start with checking all connections. Including all the snap-lock connectors. Including all the ground wires. There are several. Clean and shiny. Very carefully open the 16 pin connector from the ECM. All pins shiny. There is another similar looking connector aft on the side. Ground wires from 2 black boxes on top aft of the flywheel. Determine for certain if you have spark. Are your spark plugs wet? Checking if the injectors are working. While the plugs are out, remove the emergency lanyard and crank the engine. Did you get a spray of fuel out of the cylinders? Did you use the specified NGK plugs? Ventilate the bilge before proceeding.

Have you tried pressing the little button in the center of kill switch? Sometimes the rubber cap fails and does not press that button.

 

[1800 Challenger 01]

Start with checking all connections. Including all the snap-lock connectors. Including all the ground wires. There are several. Clean and shiny. Very carefully open the 16 pin connector from the ECM. All pins shiny. There is another similar looking connector aft on the side. Ground wires from 2 black boxes on top aft of the flywheel. Determine for certain if you have spark. Are your spark plugs wet? Checking if the injectors are working. While the plugs are out, remove the emergency lanyard and crank the engine. Did you get a spray of fuel out of the cylinders? Did you use the specified NGK plugs? Ventilate the bilge before proceeding.

Have you tried pressing the little button in the center of kill switch? Sometimes the rubber cap fails and does not press that button.

Thank you very much for your response.

I purchased a timing light to go ahead and start with my diagnostics and make sure if I am getting spark as you asked.
I was about to start checking my grounds and connections first.
But, I figured I would try to start thee engine before I do anything. To my surprise, engine just started fine. I shut it down immediately because I didn't have the hose connected (I thought it will not start).

Anyways, thank you for the tips and help.

Now, I am just worried that it might happen again later. So, I will still double check all my wiring and grounds.

Yes, I use the correct NGK plugs (mechanic changed them)

But, I have a question, could it be because I didn't run my blower before starting? I read somewhere that I should run the blower for a bit before starting.

 

[Tim75]

Thank you very much for your response.

I purchased a timing light to go ahead and start with my diagnostics and make sure if I am getting spark as you asked.
I was about to start checking my grounds and connections first.
But, I figured I would try to start thee engine before I do anything. To my surprise, engine just started fine. I shut it down immediately because I didn't have the hose connected (I thought it will not start).

Anyways, thank you for the tips and help.

Now, I am just worried that it might happen again later. So, I will still double check all my wiring and grounds.

Yes, I use the correct NGK plugs (mechanic changed them)

But, I have a question, could it be because I didn't run my blower before starting? I read somewhere that I should run the blower for a bit before starting.

I have never had a problem starting the engine related to air quality in the bilge. Some people swear by it. It won't hurt anything.
However- good boating practice is to run the bilge fan 5 minutes before starting to get rid of any accumulated gas fumes.

An inductive timing light (clamps on spark plug wire) does not show there is a spark. It only shows voltage (or none) for a spark. A fouled spark plug may not spark.

 

[POPPS]

Those black ground wires can be a major source if intermittent issues,,,tim is correct,,,hospital shine any grounds,

 

[Tim75]

Replying to :1800 Challenger 01

Smoke from the sides of the engine?????
Are there any wires where you see smoke? Check for loose connections.
Also- there are small black hoses that run around the sides of the front part of the engine. These are part of the fuel scavenging system. They are 20+ years old. They tend to break or crack at the hose nipple. You might be seeing a puff of fuel and air from a broken hose. Check all your hoses. There are lots.

A leak or break causes a vacuum leak and many problems including hard starting.