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RXT waterbox question

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underwdr

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waterbox @ Jpipe.jpgI have a 2005 rxt with a Riva stage 3 kit and an issue regarding the waterbox. I had it out this weekend, and it ran fine until it showed a high heat alert which shut me down. I pulled the Jpipe to check and make sure the holes in the bottom of it were not plugged (had this problem last year), and just happened to look into the waterbox. Since I am not sure how to describe what I saw, I am going to attempt to post this photo looking down the Jpipe connection hole. It looks to me like their is a double bottom to the waterbox and that a hole is blasted through the one bottom and you can see through to the waterbox bottom. Not sure where pieces went, or if this is usual.
My main question is...will this cause a performance problem due to unstable design of water flow, should the box be changed? Does it effect anything.... since it does not leak....any clues?
Thanks
OK... can't fiqure out how to upload a photo:o
 
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Ah hell...this is an old problem...so old I can't remember the details.

Gimme a few to see what i can find.

133.jpg


The picture shows the inside of a stock water box. The baffle has been had holes drilled into it to aid flow.

I seem to remember instances of the baffle becoming disengaged from the water box and bouncing around inside...sometimes blocking the exhuast exit and over heating...sometimes causing a blowout and flooding the engine compartment.

Now might be a good time to go with a good aftermarket waterbox and go thru hull exhaust....or just get a new oem wb and call it good.
 
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Red2blue is this the same box on a 04 RXP?
PPG said if i wanted to i could cut the weld at the other end and shorten it 4 inches and
weld the end back on and it, would help flow but would sound louder?
 
Red2blue is this the same box on a 04 RXP?
PPG said if i wanted to i could cut the weld at the other end and shorten it 4 inches and
weld the end back on and it, would help flow but would sound louder?

Yes...same. This pic is from a thread detailing a "shorty water box mod".

The mod was created not for performance but for ease of removing the sc. Now..there is some small benifit from going thru hull exhaust with a shorty water box. But it isn't all that much. It does make the machine sound pretty badazz. while at the same time freeing up space inside the hull for an ex/ic.

There are after market wb's that will give you the same thing as the shorty mod...less trouble...few more $. If i could remember right...somewhere around $300 for ther box..still need a few other small items to close up the hull, an exhaust tip ect. Some manage to work a thru hull exhaust a keep the opas....most don't worry about that though and just get an opas block-off kit to help streamline the hull.
 
I heard there was not much of a benifit from the water box
if you do the block offs is that really worth it?
I still think the best bang for speed is X-charger
injectors and prop,
I basically have the stage 1 kit witch says 72mph
it still goes 69.2 THEY ARE FULL OF IT
 
I heard there was not much of a benifit from the water box
if you do the block offs is that really worth it?
I still think the best bang for speed is X-charger
injectors and prop,
I basically have the stage 1 kit witch says 72mph
it still goes 69.2 THEY ARE FULL OF IT

Yes...opas block offs are worth it. The opas paddles are a drag..even rxp's..which don't lower. Now...some are better than others...some are simple plates that do no more than sealing the holes left behind from the paddle removal. The better ones extend the lines of the hull, the best extend those same lines all the way to the stern, thereby adding a lil lift and therefore less hull in the water....less drag...more speed.

But most importantly....a phenomena called porpoising is virtually eliminated.

Porpoising....is what happens when a ski is traveling at speed...usually wot. The drag caused from the opas for a split sec, slows the ski..the ski's nose comes down. The ski still under wot launches the nose back up outa the water...over and over again. It's the main reason I can't get to 73. I get to 72 or so and one lil ripple on the water and it starts the cycle. Simply removing the paddles and doing the basic BO would prolly get me there...but I want ones that'll extend the lines of the hull all the way to the back of the ski.
 
trapperjack1,

A lot of parts are worth the price...when installed in the right combination. Handling mods' beni's are usually subjective based on the characteristics wanted from individual riders.
 
They improve slow and off throttle steering. A deffinate improvent over older skis...safer too for the noobs who don't understand the need for thrust when steering.

What will you lose be removing them?....it'll be a lil harder to dock/trailer your ski.
 
Porpoising....is what happens when a ski is traveling at speed...usually wot. The drag caused from the opas for a split sec, slows the ski..the ski's nose comes down. The ski still under wot launches the nose back up outa the water...over and over again. It's the main reason I can't get to 73. I get to 72 or so and one lil ripple on the water and it starts the cycle. Simply removing the paddles and doing the basic BO would prolly get me there...but I want ones that'll extend the lines of the hull all the way to the back of the ski.

This is the key!

Dave, email me when you get a chance. If you can get some measurements for me I can get much closer to producing a RXT b/o set much faster.
 
im going to make my own block offs that go the rest of the way back, took them off today,
just bought off ebay a guy in tennessee (James) tons of info--stage 3 SC 10 hours 650.00 42 injectors with rail 240.00
i need a 15--20 prop, question on stage-3 SC, is that the same as an X-charger or more boost then that?
 
im going to make my own block offs that go the rest of the way back, took them off today,
just bought off ebay a guy in tennessee (James) tons of info--stage 3 SC 10 hours 650.00 42 injectors with rail 240.00
i need a 15--20 prop, question on stage-3 SC, is that the same as an X-charger or more boost then that?

The original stage 3 supercharger is less boost than the X charger. The current stage 3 includes an actual X charger. A new X charger is about $100 more than you paid and a used original stage 3 charger can be found for much less than $650. All the ones I've seen lately have been between $300-$450 used. New 42 lb injectors are $200. A used plastic fuel rail is about $50 give or take. Which type of stage 3 charger you purchased is important when it comes to figuring out what fuel setup you need. Find out from the seller if you can.
 
it was a green hulk stage 3 system, the ski it cam off of the dude spent 6-k on the system
and its being parts out, james the seller said its fater then the X charger in front of him?
let me no now i can still stop the TA, the cooler ECU and prop went, the ski did 79 he nos the dude
it droped a valve
 
The stage 3 is a Riva package. It would be 6k whether it's the X charger or the old stage 3 charger. The s3 wheel is 127mm diameter. The X charger is 137mm diameter.

it was a green hulk stage 3 system, the ski it cam off of the dude spent 6-k on the system
and its being parts out, james the seller said its fater then the X charger in front of him?
let me no now i can still stop the TA, the cooler ECU and prop went, the ski did 79 he nos the dude
it droped a valve
 
Wow! Looks like you need a new waterbox. Did you find where the missing baffle piece went? Looks like it's pretty big, may have blocked the exhause somewhere like you said. That's crazy that it broke out like that!

Now I wanna check my 2006 RXT's waterbox and make sure it's ok inside! Eeek!

- Michael
 
This is the key!

Dave, email me when you get a chance. If you can get some measurements for me I can get much closer to producing a RXT b/o set much faster.

I sent a coupla pics to the factory, of some drawings I made re the BO openings on my RXT.

Lemme know if anything is unclear. I changed the orientation of at least one baseline. You'll understand why when you see it.
 
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