Help!, While out riding my Ski on the weekend my exhaust outlet broke and allowed water to enter my hull without me knowing! Just as I came back into the beach the tempeture warning buzzer sounded so I immediately stopped the engine to investigate the cause, when I removed the seat, I noticed the hull had a considerable amount of water in it. When I got home I fixed the exhaust tube and flushed out the engine, everything seemed to be ok, When I went to start the ski today it seemed as if the battery was flat, on further investigation and after removing the plugs there is a amount of water inside the cylinders, Its doesn’t seem to be using any water from the header tank, Have I blown a head gasket
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RXP Head Gasket???
- Thread starter garyjaffa
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What year rxp is your seadoo anyway?You need to add it to you avatar for future inquires.It might be the "o"ring in the head is bad. Have you done a compression test?
Karl
Karl
Nate Surveyor
New Member
Just a bit of food for thought. Water could come back through the broken exhaust manifold, into the cylinders, and cause this condition. The manifold is cooled with water.
So, remove spark plugs, and crank it over, and get the water out asap, and then after getting all out you can, spray some sort of fogging agent in the plug holes, to lube the cylinders, and to give it some fuel (aerosol propellant is a form of fuel) Then, replace the plugs and see what happens.
Just me thoughts.
N
So, remove spark plugs, and crank it over, and get the water out asap, and then after getting all out you can, spray some sort of fogging agent in the plug holes, to lube the cylinders, and to give it some fuel (aerosol propellant is a form of fuel) Then, replace the plugs and see what happens.
Just me thoughts.
N
4-tec....
You need to drain you oil and replace your filter. Then, you'll need to spin the motor over for 30 seconds at a time until all the water is expelled. You can pour a small cap full of alcohol into each cylinder to help dry the pistons out faster. You shouldn't have to worry about the water box while the ski is out of the water. Your engine compression will blow the water out of the exhaust system.
Bottom line is; you've got to keep the engine lubricated and keep turning the engine over to keep rust from setting in. Keep checking your plugs for water and check them from spark also. If you take this to a shop, it'll cost you one arm, one leg and two fingers from your left over arm.
Let us know how you come out.
You need to drain you oil and replace your filter. Then, you'll need to spin the motor over for 30 seconds at a time until all the water is expelled. You can pour a small cap full of alcohol into each cylinder to help dry the pistons out faster. You shouldn't have to worry about the water box while the ski is out of the water. Your engine compression will blow the water out of the exhaust system.
Bottom line is; you've got to keep the engine lubricated and keep turning the engine over to keep rust from setting in. Keep checking your plugs for water and check them from spark also. If you take this to a shop, it'll cost you one arm, one leg and two fingers from your left over arm.
Let us know how you come out.
Hi, Ran the Ski in fresh water for about 30 minutes, (left on the trailer on the slipway) seemed to be a lot of white smoke? Every time I remove the plugs to check for anymore water in the cylinders number 2 plug is very wet, If I then turn the engine over vapour still comes out of that cylinder, two other things that may give you a clue are the header tank seemed to increase its level slightly and it used over 5 litres of fuel in 30 minutes running at maximum revs of around 3500. How do you drain the engine oil without it going into the hull?
Thank you
Gary
Thank you
Gary
Nate Surveyor
New Member
Gary, it does not sound good.:ack: I thought it was a 2 stroke. You added info, after. (good)
4-strokes are more complex, and more expensive to fix.
N
4-strokes are more complex, and more expensive to fix.
N
Oll removal....
You'll need to get a dipstick oil removal tool. You can fnd these at Walmart real inexpensive. They are in the sporting goods section. It's winter now so they may not have them on the shelf, since they are a seasonal store.
It sounds like you may have blown a head gasket. You'll need to do a compression test on the engine. If you don't know how to do it, go to your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts and buy one. They are about $25 dollars and while owning a ski, is a useful tool to keep around, since it is like the stethescope for an engine. You need to check all 3 cylinders and record the readings. Test each cylinder 3 times before moving on to the next one.
You'll pull a spark plug, screw in the hose adapter, then spin the motor over (all plug wires disconnected and grounded) untill the gage stops increasing in pressure. Note the reading, then push the button on the side of the gage to bleed off the pressure and do it again. Do this 3 times, then move on to the next cylinder.
Repost your readings. If you have 140 or 150 psi on two of the pistons and one of them is 40, 50 or the like, you'll be able to identify this piston as your problem.
Good luck, look forward to hearing back from you on the results.:cheers:
You'll need to get a dipstick oil removal tool. You can fnd these at Walmart real inexpensive. They are in the sporting goods section. It's winter now so they may not have them on the shelf, since they are a seasonal store.
It sounds like you may have blown a head gasket. You'll need to do a compression test on the engine. If you don't know how to do it, go to your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts and buy one. They are about $25 dollars and while owning a ski, is a useful tool to keep around, since it is like the stethescope for an engine. You need to check all 3 cylinders and record the readings. Test each cylinder 3 times before moving on to the next one.
You'll pull a spark plug, screw in the hose adapter, then spin the motor over (all plug wires disconnected and grounded) untill the gage stops increasing in pressure. Note the reading, then push the button on the side of the gage to bleed off the pressure and do it again. Do this 3 times, then move on to the next cylinder.
Repost your readings. If you have 140 or 150 psi on two of the pistons and one of them is 40, 50 or the like, you'll be able to identify this piston as your problem.
Good luck, look forward to hearing back from you on the results.:cheers:
Hi Thank you very much for all your help, Just tried to check compressions, The engine was cold but I managed to check number 1 cyl, it went up to 110 and I think it would have gone higher but because there is so much liquid coming from number 2 I had to stop turning the engine over, when I checked number 2 that went up to 150+. This liquid coming from number 2 seems to be more like petrol (Gas) than just water!! like I said in my earlier email it did use alot of fuel (5 ltrs) when ran the engine for about 30mins.
Gary
Gary
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=10931
Check that link....the procedure for getting the oil out is described pretty well. Good luck and I hope you get everything worked out!!
Matt
5L for 30 mins of running is amazing that would mean you get 6 hours on a tank!!!
For some reason I think you are talking about running it outside of water for 30 mins....this is a NO NO. You are not supposed to run these for any lenght of time outside of the water...even if it is on a hose, you could do some serious damage.
Even though the engine has a closed loop cooling system, nothing is cooling some of the other pump components.
Also are you running the doo on the hose? If so are you turning it on before you are turning the water on? Are you turning the water on full blast? If you are doing either of those you could be putting more water into your engine!
Hope this helps you get everything worked out! :cheers:
Matt
Compression....
Well, I got a PM from garyjaffa, he said all cylinders were running about 130 psi. So, it seems the head gasket is fine. I think he just ingested some water from the broken exhaust system.
I believe the smoke is the water burning off the oil. He'll need to either do an oil and filter change, which I recommend, or run the engine slowly until the water has evaporated. Which like DCKD said, at no more than 5 mimutes at a time, unless it's in the water. The problem DCKD is referring to is the shaft seal. While out of the water and running, the shaft seal has no cooling.:cheers:
Well, I got a PM from garyjaffa, he said all cylinders were running about 130 psi. So, it seems the head gasket is fine. I think he just ingested some water from the broken exhaust system.
I believe the smoke is the water burning off the oil. He'll need to either do an oil and filter change, which I recommend, or run the engine slowly until the water has evaporated. Which like DCKD said, at no more than 5 mimutes at a time, unless it's in the water. The problem DCKD is referring to is the shaft seal. While out of the water and running, the shaft seal has no cooling.:cheers:
I recomend you treat it as a flooded engine and follow the proceedure to remove the contaminiated oil/ filter and dry the system of water per the seadoo service manual.
Karl
Karl
Thank you everyone for all your help! I am a little confused by all the things that seem to be happening, Checking the compressions this morning all cylinders (with throttle wide open) were around 130 psi but I am sure now that the liquid coming from number 2 is petrol (gas), I just run the ski with number 2 fuel injector wiring disconnected and the white smoke seemed to stop?. When I look down the plug hole of number 2 there always seems to be liquid? Could this be overfueling causing the smoke?
Gary
Gary
I think I have found the fault??? After removing the injection rail and fitting the start key (lanyard) the fuel spurts out from number 2 injector, if I swop the lead from no 2 to any other injector the fuel spurts from which ever injector I connect lead 2 from, (High fuel consumption and white smoke!!!) Is this an ECU fault causing constant power to the lead or is there something wrong???
Thank you
Gary
Thank you
Gary
Nate Surveyor
New Member
Bump
I bumped this up, as I am curious about the answer!
On the autos I have worked on, the injector is a electro magnet, that has a time duration to determine how much fuel is injected, from a pressurized fuel rail. So, if these are that way, it sounds like you are on the right track. The computer may have thrown into some sort of limp mode, due to the previous events, and simply needs a reset.
Just my thoughts.
Waiting to see what is really going on.
Nate
I bumped this up, as I am curious about the answer!
On the autos I have worked on, the injector is a electro magnet, that has a time duration to determine how much fuel is injected, from a pressurized fuel rail. So, if these are that way, it sounds like you are on the right track. The computer may have thrown into some sort of limp mode, due to the previous events, and simply needs a reset.
Just my thoughts.
Waiting to see what is really going on.
Nate
Agree....
:agree: with Nate. I think you may be onto something. When we originally started this thread, we were working with a ski that may have ingested water and ran hot.
Now, it does seem you may have an ECU problem. Does it need to be reset? This is possible.
If I'm reading this correctly, you've pulled the wire connector from your #2 injector and for which ever injector you connect it to, it spurts fuel as does the #2 injector. When you say spurts, do you mean a solid stream of fuel or is it "pulsing" The injector system should have a pulse and each time it pulses (fuel distribution on each intake stroke) the injector should spray a fine mist into the cylinder.
Have you done a visual on the way your #1 and 3 injector work. This will help you determine what you should see with your #2. Also, what I'm reading into your post, are you saying the injector is spraying fuel without the machine turning over? When you put on the key, does it send fuel through the injector? If you are seeing fuel from the #2 injector, just from powering up your electrical system, without pushing the start button, then yes, you do have a problem. Probably with the ECU as you've suspected.
:agree: with Nate. I think you may be onto something. When we originally started this thread, we were working with a ski that may have ingested water and ran hot.
Now, it does seem you may have an ECU problem. Does it need to be reset? This is possible.
If I'm reading this correctly, you've pulled the wire connector from your #2 injector and for which ever injector you connect it to, it spurts fuel as does the #2 injector. When you say spurts, do you mean a solid stream of fuel or is it "pulsing" The injector system should have a pulse and each time it pulses (fuel distribution on each intake stroke) the injector should spray a fine mist into the cylinder.
Have you done a visual on the way your #1 and 3 injector work. This will help you determine what you should see with your #2. Also, what I'm reading into your post, are you saying the injector is spraying fuel without the machine turning over? When you put on the key, does it send fuel through the injector? If you are seeing fuel from the #2 injector, just from powering up your electrical system, without pushing the start button, then yes, you do have a problem. Probably with the ECU as you've suspected.
Hi, when I connect the key to the ski number 2 injector spurts (Constant Flow for about 3 seconds, not atomised!) then stops, (without the engine turning over). When the engine is turning over no 1 & 3 injectors spray out like a pulse (very fine mist)
Gary
Signals....
O.K....it's not supposed to do that. You said you removed the connector from #2 and connected it to one of the other injectors. Did it spurt the same way.
With what you've given so far, it seems the ECU has a problem. If you changed the injector connection to the #1 or 3 and it spurts those injectors too, without any atomization or is doing it when the engine isn't turning over, then there is a problem in the ECU.
You may end up at the shop with the B.U.D.S. system trying to make a correction to that signal. I hope you don't have to replace the ECU...
O.K....it's not supposed to do that. You said you removed the connector from #2 and connected it to one of the other injectors. Did it spurt the same way.
With what you've given so far, it seems the ECU has a problem. If you changed the injector connection to the #1 or 3 and it spurts those injectors too, without any atomization or is doing it when the engine isn't turning over, then there is a problem in the ECU.
You may end up at the shop with the B.U.D.S. system trying to make a correction to that signal. I hope you don't have to replace the ECU...
Nate Surveyor
New Member
OK, I have got something to add...
It is possible when too much fuel gets into an engine, to cause the fuel to get past the rings, and into the oil, diluting the oil. Of course, this depends on how rich it was, and the condition of the engine etc. On some 4-wheelers, this thin oil causes the lobe on the cam to wear off. I am sure it causes other problems too. So, after all this trouble, I recommend that you check the oil out. Smell it, and look for a yellow color, or white color, indicating water in the oil.
The petroleum (gasoline) can definitely "hide" in the oil, and cause premature internal wear.
Lawn mowers can even do this. There is a PCV tube, from the carb to the crankcase, and it is supposed to return unburnt fuel vapor into the carb. Well, they can work in reverse, and dump fuel into the crankcase. A telltale sign is an over filled crankcase, with no apparent source. So, for the immediate, you can smell the oil, looking for gas vapors, and see if it is at a higher oil level than it was before.
I hope this suggestion helps. It may not apply, but it is always better to look for a non existent problem, than to overlook a simple one, that causes you trouble.
Nate
It is possible when too much fuel gets into an engine, to cause the fuel to get past the rings, and into the oil, diluting the oil. Of course, this depends on how rich it was, and the condition of the engine etc. On some 4-wheelers, this thin oil causes the lobe on the cam to wear off. I am sure it causes other problems too. So, after all this trouble, I recommend that you check the oil out. Smell it, and look for a yellow color, or white color, indicating water in the oil.
The petroleum (gasoline) can definitely "hide" in the oil, and cause premature internal wear.
Lawn mowers can even do this. There is a PCV tube, from the carb to the crankcase, and it is supposed to return unburnt fuel vapor into the carb. Well, they can work in reverse, and dump fuel into the crankcase. A telltale sign is an over filled crankcase, with no apparent source. So, for the immediate, you can smell the oil, looking for gas vapors, and see if it is at a higher oil level than it was before.
I hope this suggestion helps. It may not apply, but it is always better to look for a non existent problem, than to overlook a simple one, that causes you trouble.
Nate
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