RXDI 2002 starting problems and dies when ideling

[Cpt JAK]

Hey Guys. I'm new here and also a newb regarding 2-strokers.
Just baught me a Sea-doo RXDI 2002 with only 65h and previously owned by my friend. So driving vice it has been handled gently.
It has been on land for 4 years when I took it home a week ago and changed the battery and it started up right away!
BUT, it's difficult to rev it, dies in idle. And now its really hard to start.
I have checked the fuel pump, lines and even dissembled the injection. It sprays just fine. Checked the sparkplugs. They do spark and looks just fine.
So, it got air, spark and fuel. But runs bad if I manage to start it at all!
It was like this when he put it away for 4 years ago, so this problem is not directly linked to the storage.
I havn't done any compression check and really dont think there is any issue there. Is there any sensor that could be bad that electronicly hinders the motor from running?
Downloaded some manuals for it, but doesn't really help either.
Hope someone is handy with this grumpy rotax 2 stroke engines.

 

[JJinSC]

Start with cleaning entire fuel system. Today's ethanol fuel do not store well.it gums up iand clogs the carbs filters, etc. get all old fuel out of tank. Yes you will have to go through the carbs.

 

[JJinSC]

Oh I see that is a DI. You will have to clean injectors

 

[Coastiejoe]

Ok,, the DI ski is a beast all its own. I know you FEEL there are no compression issues and or fuel issues, but you can't guess, especially with a DI.

So, first do a compression test and post your numbers. The fuel pressure MUST be at 107 psi at an idle. It is a combination of fuel pump pressure and the air pump. You MUST do this test. If not, you will spend MANY hours guessing and spending money that is simply a waste...

 

[Cpt JAK]

Ok, first! There was like 1/2 gallon of fuel left so I diluted that old stuff with 2 gallons of new. Maybe not so smart. But to drain the system isn't that easy.
Compression test I can do. But to messure the fuel pressure. I don't know anything about that. How is that done?
Air pump? Havn't seen any air pump!

I also have problems connecting a hose for cooling water. Is there a special coupling that fits?

 

[Coastiejoe]

This being new to you, you will want to get a manual and get familiar with the basics. The basics are very important. As is "base" engine. If the "base" engine is not right, nothing else can be. Base engine refers to quality of compression, spark and fuel. As well as timing,,,

 

[Cpt JAK]

Just made a compression check. The fwd shows 50 psi and the rear 110 psi. So that doesn't sound very good to me. But the instrument is old and had som cracks in the rubber cone that is pressed towards the holes. Gonna get a new one tomorrow and check again.
Reasembled everything after the check and the engine did run perfect. Don't know why.
Is there a way to check the oil injection? Don't know if that is clogged! And again, how to connect a hose with cooling for it? Only run it for a few seconds now because of no water

 

[Coastiejoe]

When we see numbers this low, always double check with a second gauge That said, even if it reads low, you are WAY outside the 10% variance from cylinder to cylinder.

 

[Cpt JAK]

CoastieJoe! You don't even know how right you were. Thank you for your kind advice.
Baught a new compression tester today and did a nother comp test.
FWD cyl: 45-50 psi
REAR cyl: 115 psi
Everything else seems to work and it apears to be in good condition. So the next question is. Is it still worth the time, effort and money to rebuild this toasted engine?
Is there more checks I should do before diciding wheather to scrap it or not?
CoastieJoe were talking about fuelpressure. The only thing I have done with the fuel system is to lift the pump and looked at it. Listened to it (sounds ok). It's building pressure and the spray from the injectors looks good and sprays even.

 

[Coastiejoe]

How many hours are on the Crank?

 

[Cpt JAK]

The doo got 65h total time. If a top end rebuild is whats needed only, I'm up for it. But if there is more deeper problems I might sell it.
Is there any more checks I should doo before taking it apart?

 

[mikidymac]

Seeing how you are in Sweden and this is a DI ski I would not waste my time with it. Even here in the States messing with a DI can get very expensive.

 

[Coastiejoe]

To add to that,,, The DI ski's are great when they are running as they should. And they have the same "basic" 2-stroke mentality as other 2-strokes. What makes them considerably more difficult is the DI set up. Cost more to fix and diagnose. You really do need some specific tools and knowledge for this ski.

 

[Cpt JAK]

Stubborn as I am I decided to lift the cylinder head and have a look inside. Easier said than done. All went well until the last bolt. The tool slipped and the torx head is now ruined. Of course it's the inner one under the injection. I have never seen bolts that were so damn hard to remove. They were covered in som white powder like salt. Now I have to remove the whole engine to cut that bolt. The thing is, now I'm stuck with the exhaust. The bottom bolt must need a special tool or something. The Doo is a freakin nightmare to take apart. All smells of gas so I dont dare to use any grindig tools in there.I Might burn the whole house down before this is done.

 

[mikidymac]

We will help you the best we can and good luck.
Remember I told you to walk away from it. LOL.