Runs great for 30 minutes and then the oil light flickers, need help

[caperss]

First time out on my 2011 RTX is 260. It starts right up and runs great for 30 minutes had it up to 60 and it had more so its running pretty good. After 30 minutes of cruising I slowed to test the brake and reverse. It was the first time I had let it idle since leaving the ramp when I started off again I noticed the oil light flicker and then go out, two minutes later it flickered again so I started to head back in. As I was getting closer the flickering was now happening more often and staying on longer and then about 5 minutes later the check engine and low oil pressure warning came up on the dash so I slowed it down and then it went into limp mode and the alarm went off luckily I was close to the ramp. I checked the oil level and it was between the bends in the dipstick. When I got home I let the ski cool off (about 1 Hour) I went to flush it and hook it up to my diagnostic tool and sure enough PO524 (low oil pressure) fault was the only fault in the list from my CanDoo Pro. I cleared the fault and started it up to rinse it out. No oil pressure lamp and it is running fine. I have read about the sensors, I don't think that's the case although it may be. This engine has been through the mill (only has 100 hrs. and middle cyl. only has about 60psi when warm I got it that way) I just want to use it as a tube puller for my grand kids when they visit so I'm not worried about all out performance I just want it to run and not spin a bearing. It is acting just like a worn oil pump or pumps. I'd like to cheat and go to a higher viscosity oil. What do I have to lose the next step is to replace the engine. I just want to buy some time. Maybe just one more summer. What oil can I try to thicken up the recommended oil? Non synthetic in stead of a blend? Maybe a 20-50 blend? Maybe just non synthetic 20-50 Castrol GTX? STP? Just looking for any suggestions. I know a lot of you may think this is blasphemous but I'm just an old guy who loves the sport and is on fixed income and can't swing the three grand to replace the engine right now. Just need some help. Thanks in advance. P.S. Boy did I have some fun for that fist 30 minutes! I'd like some more.....

 

[Seadoodoc]

Did you pull oil filter out and take a look?

 

[caperss]

I did not. I was told it was fresh but you are right I should look at it. See if there is any foreign material in it or heck the way I was lied to about the ski chances are its 4 years old and clogged. I'll change it out B4 I go back out. When I change the oil filter if I get the same results what do you think about thicker oil as a cheat to buy some time? Also any recommendations....

 

[bell99man]

As long as one cylinder is free wheeling, it should have a lot less torque, acceleration, run rough and throw codes. I'm surprised you're not getting exhaust codes or other issues. Actually there is a thread about oil leaking if the driveshaft is out. It has a great video about how the oil is moved throughout the engine and having one cylinder out might have an affect on the oil pressure. I'll paste a link below.

I've never heard of using thicker oil to improve compression, just for higher heat. I ran a 20-50 weight in an air cooled VW that had a very oversized displacement with enormous carbs. It was a new build and the oil was recommended by the builder.

 

[bell99man]

Does oil leak if drive shaft is not in?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=89270&share_fid=43845&share_type=t

 

[caperss]

Its not leaking any oil into the hull/bilge if that's what you are suggesting. I am guessing since the engine is beat and tired that I may have larger bearing clearances and worn oil pump parts causing lower than adequate oil pressure once the oil gets hot and thins out. The oil is definitely going away via oil ring blow-by but it takes 5 hrs or more before I need to add more oil. My original question stands, has anyone run thicker oil in their ski and if so has it had any bad results?

 

[bell99man]

My previous post was just a link to a video on how the oil is moved through the engine block and bearings.

 

[ski-d00]

If your motor only has 100 hours, most likely your bearings, rings, and oil pumps(which are very reliable) are fine so there would be no need to replace the motor. It is much more likely that you have a valve sealing issue on your middle cylinder and would be a relatively simple fix. Before running thicker oil which may ruin your motor, do a leak down test and post the results. It is also very easy to test oil pressure. They have provided ports where it is simple to remove the set screw and add a gauge which takes 5 minutes.

 

[caperss]

So here is what I found. The oil filter was crushed as was mentioned by seadoodoc. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the ski and put a fresh oil filter in. Other than it being crushed and the pleats awful hard I didn't see any metal or anything out of the ordinary. Of course the seller lied to me about replacing the oil filter too, no way this was new or just happened. I was going to replace the op sending unit but after seeing the filter it was very obvious what was going on. I wont have time today to get her wet but on the hose like always it started right up and the oil pressure was about 90psi cold after running for a minute or so and a few blips of the gas it was at 80-85. That's pretty close to specs so I'm happy about that. Tomorrow will tell the story once I get it hot. As for the middle cylinder I bore scoped it and its not good. Top of piston is pitted and the cyl. wall is scored, that's where my blue smoke is coming from it legitimizes the 60 psi compression test. As long as I have adequate oil pres. I'll run it. It still goes plenty fast (fast enough for me). If I can get a few seasons out of it I will be more than happy. Its funny when I have it on the hose or I'm at the dock the blue smoke is noticeable but when I'm running in the water I don't see any of it. I'm probably polluting the water though :facepalm: Wish me luck tomorrow, I'm going to see if I can run for an hour or more without a problem. Thanks so much to all who replied giving me ideas.

 

[caperss]

Oh yes, one other question. What causes the oil filters to collapse like mine did? Is it because the filter is so dirty it implodes? Never seen anything like it before, or is it just a symptom of these engines and happens now and then. Would really like to know. Thanks again!

 

[ht_addict]

The other possible causes of collapsed filter I have seen:

• water in the oil from wave jumping or from failing intercooler
• failing head gasket with slight antifreeze leak which will clog filter membrane

 

[caperss]

Ok that must be it. This ski has obviously been abused by its previous owner and it looks it but there is a brand new shiny intercooler in there so yep failing intercooler is most likely the cause of the collapsed oil filter. I took it out yesterday and ran it for a good 45 minutes and I had great oil pressure the whole time out. I was running low on fuel so I came in and took it home to look at everything and check for leaks etc. Everything was good but the dipstick was at the low bend. I followed the correct procedure for checking the oil level and topped it off. Went back to the ramp and took it out again for a fast 30 minute run, when I got back home I had used about an 1/8 inch of oil on the dipstick. I can live with that. The ski is running very good I'm going to have to keep an eye on oil level but that's ok I'm on the water and having a blast. Thank you all for your input!!

 

[AircraftDoc]

After you work through the things you found and still find the oil pressure light coming on, then look at the following.....
1. Using full synthetic oil is ok, but is is thinner and causes lower pressures. It has great shear strength.
2. The oil pressure sensors. Should be two and have been known to fail.
Members have used the synthetic oils and they are better than the blend, but messes with the low pressure sensor (set at 28 psi) sometimes because of the high viscosity. Best to stick to the SeaDoo's OEM oil.

 

[ski-d00]

Using full synthetic is not okay, unless you want to ruin the supercharger.

 

[AircraftDoc]

Using full synthetic is not okay, unless you want to ruin the supercharger.

I am for sticking with the OEM oil.
Just in case someone might use a full synthetic with wet clutch properties. They should visit the ACEA web site on the sience of oil.

 

[caperss]

Update on my ski, She still has some blue smoke when flushing out after running but to my surprise its not using very much oil any longer. Oil pres. cold is 95psi and about 50 psi when good and hot at idle. I had it out for a full hour at speed averaging 45-60mph during that time it ran flawlessly and has plenty of power. When I checked the oil level when I was done it was still up to the top bend. I'll keep an eye on it but I am curious how it went from burning a quart of oil that first hour to hardly burning anything at all after 3 run hours on the meter. I'm not complaining but I find it odd. All the same I am happy its back in the water and can do 60 MPH +.

 

[AircraftDoc]

Oh yeah, one more thing on oil level with superchargers. Don't over fill. You want the level to be under the full line. Otherwise, the high level of oil have been known to foul plugs and puff smoke. The supercharger sucks some oil into the intake system.