Resealing the ride plate/cavitation on hole shot

[Davo070]

Hi, still getting some cavitation on initil hole shot, everything is fine if I ease on the throttle and no loss of top end, just seems if I floor the throttle right off the RPMs get up to 8000 but we go nowhere for a few seconds, eventually the power starts to come on but there is definite hesitation and a little vibration. Looking at the possible issues I am leaning towards resealing the ride plate or some leading edge damage on one or both of impellors.

Withe regards to resealing the ride plate, is it as easy as running round the outside of the ride plate with some good quality marine sealant or would it be best to remove and reseat? I dont really want to be out of the water for any extended period of time, I have had enough down time this year to last a few summers already!!

 

[thor7000]

I have the same problem...I tried sealing the ride plate and tunnel with 5400 sealant that I bought at West Marine. Also pulled the pumps and replaced both neoprene seals and still have some cavitation.....wasn't until I noticed that one of my pump housings was out of round (checked clearances around the impeller) and that's the engine that mainly has the cavitation. I found the thread on GreenHulk I believe were a guy replaced his plastic pump housings with the cast aluminum ones and it fixed the problem, I may do the same if I decide to keep the boat for another season. Good Luck!!

 

[James.Moon]

I had the same problem with my 2009 180SE as did several others on this forum with the 2009s. Turns out it was factory defective ride plate sealing. I finally got the dealer & BRP to fix it under warranty. I suspect disassembly is required as the dealer's cost to BRP to do it was about $850.
No material except silicone.

 

[ski-d00]

I resealed mine this year and it fixed 98% of the cavitation. Removed both ride plates and both pump shoes, cleaned all sealant off, resealed with 5910(replacement for the original 5900, basically the same thing with a little better resistance to antifreeze) in the seadoo recommended areas and also did every joint between the hull/rideplate, rideplate/shoe, shoe/hull so that every seam was perfectly flat or slightly concave and extends at least 1" deep in all seams. Took almost 2 full tubes with a little waste. If I would have changed the wear rings, it would have been 100% but they only had some minor grooves in them so not worth spending the extra $. It stands up and goes now, rips 200 lb slalom skiers out like nothing.