Replacement coil for 2000 GTX RFI

[lmarkie74]

Replacement coil for 2000 GTX RFI is not the same as the 22 year old original coil. The part number is 278001546 is the right part number from the parts manual.
This old one is enclosed in a plastic case with that electronic glass they pour into it. This new coil comes without plug wires, plug caps, the case and not encapsulated in the case. The coils are the same. I was thinking, by the picture, that the 2 brass ends you see it the picture, where screw threads to screw the coil wire into just like the plug wire caps. They are not. They are something else. They look similar to butt connectors. How would you connect the plug wires to this coil?

 

[etemplet]

Did you buy it yet??? I dont see the single plug connector that comes off the coil on the stock unit. Much easier to get the correct one off Ebay. plug and play.

 

[lmarkie74]

Did you buy it yet??? I dont see the single plug connector that comes off the coil on the stock unit. Much easier to get the correct one off Ebay. plug and play.

Exactly the same on Ebay or anywhere else. 278001546 is the OEM part number. It's the replacement but without the leads and the plastic case filled with the glass stuff. I will have to get with the one I bought it from and ask them how the heck do you connect leads the it. Kinda dumb not to sell it without leads.

 

[etemplet]

You're buying new. I buy used.
Used Coil Ebay

 

[lmarkie74]

You're buying new. I buy used.
Used Coil Ebay

I found the right terminals to make it work at O'Reilly's. New coil, New connectors, New wires, and New boots. I modified the under seat mounting bracket to make it fit. Looks really good. My problem was GTX RFI would run good for about 3 minutes and then bog and surge. I do believe that a 22 year old coil encapsulated in that epoxy material was not letting the coil cool and creating a weaker spark. If I let it cool for a few minutes the ski runs good for a few minutes more. Then bogs and surges.. I will know tomorrow when I test it. Starts up out of the water great and is consistent at RPM.

 

[etemplet]

Did you replace the fuel filters in the tank and check fuel pressure?

 

[lmarkie74]

New fuel pump a 2 filters. 60psi on fuel pressure. Just recently replaced ignition coil. Thinking that the coil may be getting hot. Thought was the reason that if I let the jetski sit, I would run great for a few minutes and bog down and surge. Only things I haven't replace is the Stator and the MPEM. It's either a fuel issue or electrical issue, I think? Aggravating!!!

 

[etemplet]

Be careful replacing parts. That wil gain you NOTHING on a RFI. I Have one right now I got 10 hours troubleshooting. It was running, bogged and quit. I replaced every part... still the same. I have a lot of spare parts and I know the dang testing routine by heart. LOL These skis can be sneaky. LOL

 

[lmarkie74]

Be careful replacing parts. That wil gain you NOTHING on a RFI. I Have one right now I got 10 hours troubleshooting. It was running, bogged and quit. I replaced every part... still the same. I have a lot of spare parts and I know the dang testing routine by heart. LOL These skis can be sneaky. LOL

I talked with a jetski dealer and repair guy down in Florida. He said he hates working on them. Lol! I may have my problem solved. The only thing I haven't replaced is my MPEM and Stator. Did a static ohm test on the stator 3 yellow wires. .5 ohms all 3 combinations. Within range. Did a dynamic test of the 3 yellow wires at regulator connector with the engine running. Spec is 25-70 vac. Depending on RPM. A-B is 25 vac at idle. B-C is 2 vac. A-C is 2 vac. All combinations should be 25 bac at idle or somewhere close. Explains why Stator is getting hot.

 

[etemplet]

That is a good test for sure. I'll take the RFI over the carb Seadoo. They just get weird problems for some reason. I had a guy over one day working on his... he had done everything imagineable to the ski. Then we pulled out every part and replaced them one at a time. The ski did the same thing. I think he had a twisted crank but he checked it and said it tested good.

I think the ski I have has a mag issue. I'm gonna test that as well. Where did you test the 3 yellow wires? At the Rectifier? I have a lot of plugs so I just use one the plug in and I don't need to have my head in the engine compartment to test. Thanks for the follow up post !!

 

[lmarkie74]

That is a good test for sure. I'll take the RFI over the carb Seadoo. They just get weird problems for some reason. I had a guy over one day working on his... he had done everything imagineable to the ski. Then we pulled out every part and replaced them one at a time. The ski did the same thing. I think he had a twisted crank but he checked it and said it tested good.

I think the ski I have has a mag issue. I'm gonna test that as well. Where did you test the 3 yellow wires? At the Rectifier? I have a lot of plugs so I just use one the plug in and I don't need to have my head in the engine compartment to test. Thanks for the follow up post !!

I did the testing at the rectifier. Back probe with T pins. Unplug the ABC connector. Easier to get to. Spec is 40-75 vac at 3500 RPM. I measured 25,1,1 at about 2,000 RPM. Let me know your readings.

 

[lmarkie74]

Another thing.....I tested each 3 yellow wires to ground one at a time. You should get no continuity. One of the wires, I got continuity. It's shorted to ground.

 

[POPPS]

If it shorted to ground then you will need to replace the stator,

 

[etemplet]

I did the testing at the rectifier. Back probe with T pins. Unplug the ABC connector. Easier to get to. Spec is 40-75 vac at 3500 RPM. I measured 25,1,1 at about 2,000 RPM. Let me know your readings.

What the hell are thos T things? Improvise or real tools??? I can't test like that right now cuz da sumbish don't run. LOL

 

[lmarkie74]

The manual has a tap in wiring harness to check ohms and VAC. T pins are from Amazon. Much cheaper back pinning. If you went to Walmart, they would be in the sewing area. I use them to back pin the connector wiring. Since it doesn't run, connect your multimeter to pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 yellow wires. Check what you are getting on VAC while cranking.

 

[etemplet]

Yes I don't buy the seadoo tools. Too easy to make my own or find another way. That's a good idea as something should be happening while cranking. LOL

 

[yotaman96]

I found the right terminals to make it work at O'Reilly's. New coil, New connectors, New wires, and New boots. I modified the under seat mounting bracket to make it fit. Looks really good. My problem was GTX RFI would run good for about 3 minutes and then bog and surge. I do believe that a 22 year old coil encapsulated in that epoxy material was not letting the coil cool and creating a weaker spark. If I let it cool for a few minutes the ski runs good for a few minutes more. Then bogs and surges.. I will know tomorrow when I test it. Starts up out of the water great and is consistent at RPM.

Can you let me know what you used to make everything work? What did you do about the missing ground wire? What plug wires? Do you have any pics?

 

[lmarkie74]

Spark Plug wires I got from O'reilly's auto parts. 7mm wire is about $2/foot. I bought 2 feet. Crimp boot connectors on wires and assembled boots to coil. Pretty tight. The old ground connector is a single packard connector. I cut the connect off and crimped a eyelet connect to it. As you can see from the coil picture, there is on hole. I modified the plastic old mount piece to get the coil to fit. Used a long screw and lock nut to mount. Eye connect (ground) is bolted to the metal of the coil in the picture. Just like a mower coil. Used the old boots on the spark plug side. Works great for a replacement. Can't get the older style anymore or is way too expensive.

Was not my problem though. My Stator was bad. Replaced stator and it runs perfect.

 

[yotaman96]

Spark Plug wires I got from O'reilly's auto parts. 7mm wire is about $2/foot. I bought 2 feet. Crimp boot connectors on wires and assembled boots to coil. Pretty tight. The old ground connector is a single packard connector. I cut the connect off and crimped a eyelet connect to it. As you can see from the coil picture, there is on hole. I modified the plastic old mount piece to get the coil to fit. Used a long screw and lock nut to mount. Eye connect (ground) is bolted to the metal of the coil in the picture. Just like a mower coil. Used the old boots on the spark plug side. Works great for a replacement. Can't get the older style anymore or is way too expensive.

Was not my problem though. My Stator was bad. Replaced stator and it runs perfect.

Thanks for the response. I was having trouble finding wires that fit the new coil. I'll probably try the ends you posted since they're working for you. I was considering running a ground wire from the coil to the engine block instead of cutting the wire off the old coil, since it's most likely still good. I'm chasing an issue where the ski starts great out of the water, but almost impossible to start in the water. Also cuts out a bit at low rpm when I go full throttle. I have some injectors on the way too. Already replaced both fuel strainers. The ski sat for a long time.

 

[lmarkie74]

Thanks for the response. I was having trouble finding wires that fit the new coil. I'll probably try the ends you posted since they're working for you. I was considering running a ground wire from the coil to the engine block instead of cutting the wire off the old coil, since it's most likely still good. I'm chasing an issue where the ski starts great out of the water, but almost impossible to start in the water. Also cuts out a bit at low rpm when I go full throttle. I have some injectors on the way too. Already replaced both fuel strainers. The ski sat for a long time.

I just completely rebuilt a Seadoo GTI 717. I was having the problem of starting it in the water. Turned out it was the Rotary Valve Cover bolts came loose and the cover was pulling off. I Loctited (Blue) the bolts in and now it starts fine and runs great. Once a gap develops with the sheet Rotary Valve, you can't get any compression to start the engine. Did you do a compression check? Don't use the Harbor Freight Compression Tester crap.

 

[yotaman96]

I just completely rebuilt a Seadoo GTI 717. I was having the problem of starting it in the water. Turned out it was the Rotary Valve Cover bolts came loose and the cover was pulling off. I Loctited (Blue) the bolts in and now it starts fine and runs great. Once a gap develops with the sheet Rotary Valve, you can't get any compression to start the engine. Did you do a compression check? Don't use the Harbor Freight Compression Tester crap.

I have checked the compression. It was 110 on both cylinders, but that gauge has read low on everything I've checked with it.

 

[lmarkie74]

I have checked the compression. It was 110 on both cylinders, but that gauge has read low on everything I've checked with it.

And it is not the Harbor Freight compression tester? I got a good one at Advancedauto.

 

[yotaman96]

And it is not the Harbor Freight compression tester? I got a good one at Advancedauto.

No, it's a BraveX. Still a generic tester, but had good reviews. I'll have a Bosch here tomorrow. I'll compare the readings.

 

[Larfme]

Spark Plug wires I got from O'reilly's auto parts. 7mm wire is about $2/foot. I bought 2 feet. Crimp boot connectors on wires and assembled boots to coil. Pretty tight. The old ground connector is a single packard connector. I cut the connect off and crimped a eyelet connect to it. As you can see from the coil picture, there is on hole. I modified the plastic old mount piece to get the coil to fit. Used a long screw and lock nut to mount. Eye connect (ground) is bolted to the metal of the coil in the picture. Just like a mower coil. Used the old boots on the spark plug side. Works great for a replacement. Can't get the older style anymore or is way too expensive.

Was not my problem though. My Stator was bad. Replaced stator and it runs perfect.

Did you ever get this ski working?

 

[Larfme]

I installed one of these. Works well so far.