Removing Battery
- Thread starter BMor25
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ski-d00
Well-Known Member
remove the 2 screws on each side of the battery case at the bottom, then unclip the case halves at the top and the halves will separate, unbolt connections and remove battery. not hard but more complicated than it needs to be.
seadoo has gotten carried away with their accessory parts, imo. part of the reason these things cost so much now. they don't seem to agree with simpler is better.
seadoo has gotten carried away with their accessory parts, imo. part of the reason these things cost so much now. they don't seem to agree with simpler is better.
I was not able to un-clip and halve the plastic case that is around the battery.
I unplugged the wires from the various relays and removed it pretty much as a unit. Once i had it out, I was able to split the halves easily. I did so and put the halves back into the ski with all the wires plugged back in.
I unplugged the wires from the various relays and removed it pretty much as a unit. Once i had it out, I was able to split the halves easily. I did so and put the halves back into the ski with all the wires plugged back in.
MichiganSKI
New Member
I removed the battery from my 2012 Sea-Doo RXT 260 for the first time today...
- Disconnect terminal connections with Phillips head screwdriver
- Remove the the two 1/2" bolts on each side of the battery case at the bottom with a socket wrench and a long extension. Be careful not to lose the flat washers when you remove the bolts.
- Unclip battery case halves at the top (using your hands)
- FULLY SEPARATE THE CASE HALVES BY ALSO SEPARATING THEM AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THEY ARE TABBED TOGETHER VERTICALLY IN THE LOCATION WHERE THE BOLTS WENT THROUGH. It won't come apart if you don't pull up on one half and down on the other to separate the halves. The tabbing direction is reversed on the left vs. right sides, so reverse your up/down force to separate the halves on the 2nd side you attack.
As "ski-d00" mentions, this is not difficult but it's sure more complicated than it needs to be.
Sea-Doo Battery Removal
- Disconnect terminal connections with Phillips head screwdriver
- Remove the the two 1/2" bolts on each side of the battery case at the bottom with a socket wrench and a long extension. Be careful not to lose the flat washers when you remove the bolts.
- Unclip battery case halves at the top (using your hands)
- FULLY SEPARATE THE CASE HALVES BY ALSO SEPARATING THEM AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THEY ARE TABBED TOGETHER VERTICALLY IN THE LOCATION WHERE THE BOLTS WENT THROUGH. It won't come apart if you don't pull up on one half and down on the other to separate the halves. The tabbing direction is reversed on the left vs. right sides, so reverse your up/down force to separate the halves on the 2nd side you attack.
As "ski-d00" mentions, this is not difficult but it's sure more complicated than it needs to be.
Sea-Doo Battery Removal
Michiganski...
Welcome to the forum.
What city are you near.
See my signature below for a group in SDF (SeaDooForum.com)
Welcome to the forum.
What city are you near.
See my signature below for a group in SDF (SeaDooForum.com)
MichiganSKI
New Member
Joby,
As I was trying to remove my battery yesterday, my first inclination was also to pry at that fuse bracket to see if it would come off (it almost beggs to be pried at). It felt like it might break if I applied too much force, so I went online and found this thread. From reading Ski-Doo's post I decided I must have missed something because he didn't mention having to pry at anything. When I went back to it, I found that the separation of the halves was possible with your hands alone and didn't require the fuse bracket to be removed at all.
Do you think you could have broken it? Maybe we could help if you sent photos.
Good luck! Let us know if you figure it out. I'm guessing you're not the first one to pry the fuse bracket off.
For others - please note that the fuse bracket doesn't require removal to get the battery out; it can stay connected to its half of the battery case and the battery will still come out.
As I was trying to remove my battery yesterday, my first inclination was also to pry at that fuse bracket to see if it would come off (it almost beggs to be pried at). It felt like it might break if I applied too much force, so I went online and found this thread. From reading Ski-Doo's post I decided I must have missed something because he didn't mention having to pry at anything. When I went back to it, I found that the separation of the halves was possible with your hands alone and didn't require the fuse bracket to be removed at all.
Do you think you could have broken it? Maybe we could help if you sent photos.
Good luck! Let us know if you figure it out. I'm guessing you're not the first one to pry the fuse bracket off.
For others - please note that the fuse bracket doesn't require removal to get the battery out; it can stay connected to its half of the battery case and the battery will still come out.
Joby
New Member
Thanks for the reply, I fixed it in the end, it was not splitting the case I had a problem with, it was getting the bracket back on the side of the case. I had already taken the bracket off and replaced the batt, of course now I know how it goes I know I did not need to take the bracket off the side.
I took the batt and case out again and then disconnected all the wires from the bracket. Once I had the batt case and the bracket out of the dark hole it was easy to see how to clip it back on.
There are two tabs at the bottom of the bracket, they slide behind the bottom bar of the batt case, then you have to pull (hard) the top of the bracket (where the white module connector fits) up and over the top of the case, so that the clip locks into the batt case.
I would have taken pics if I had thought of it at the time sorry, if I every have to do it again I'll take pics...
thanks!
I took the batt and case out again and then disconnected all the wires from the bracket. Once I had the batt case and the bracket out of the dark hole it was easy to see how to clip it back on.
There are two tabs at the bottom of the bracket, they slide behind the bottom bar of the batt case, then you have to pull (hard) the top of the bracket (where the white module connector fits) up and over the top of the case, so that the clip locks into the batt case.
I would have taken pics if I had thought of it at the time sorry, if I every have to do it again I'll take pics...
thanks!
Piper Mike
Active Member
Just noticed this contraption on my 2013. Already snapped one of the top tabs trying to separate the case before I found this thread.....Almost better off to just take the wires off the battery and charge it in it's fancy holder. Guess we shouldn't take the battery out unless it's in need of replacement ?
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
the plastic panel has two black plastic push pins at the bottom. with a small screw driver, gently pry the pin about a 1/4" out but the pin doesn't have to be completely removed, just out some, then the entire pin will come right out. once both pins are out, slide the panel UP FIRST, don't just pry it out, it has hook tabs on each side, then it comes right out and you'll all the access you need to the battery.
I was able to remove the battery inside of its fancy holder after un-bolting the pos+neg cable along with the 2 bolts on the bottom. once i got the whole assembly loose i lifted it up a bit and was able to pop the fuse assembly off by hand from the bottom side first.
Be carful not to loose those lil square nuts inside the battery terimals! i lost one by tilting the battery a smidge and under the fuel tank it fell.
i def agree on how crazy complicated it is to get that battery out. way to much.
Be carful not to loose those lil square nuts inside the battery terimals! i lost one by tilting the battery a smidge and under the fuel tank it fell.
i def agree on how crazy complicated it is to get that battery out. way to much.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Try a sawzzall?
kunzman
Member
It will eventually make its way to the back of the ski. Check back near the rear of the ski after a few runs.
Take a wire tie and wrap it around the terminal. The square metal nut can't fall out...
lamajama
Well-Known Member
I used a short piece of the clear hose that comes with a vented battery and squeezed it between the battery terminal and the nut...I
also went to the $1 store and bought a fabric dog collar and clipped it around the battery. Now I can lift the battery up without
having it slip from my fingers....dumb idea but it works for me anyway....
also went to the $1 store and bought a fabric dog collar and clipped it around the battery. Now I can lift the battery up without
having it slip from my fingers....dumb idea but it works for me anyway....
BMoreE
Member
Removal was relatively straightforward thanks to this thread (though on mine there was no square nut... either that or I've lost them without knowing.) One clarification: the bolts at the bottom of the bracket for me were 13mm, not 1/2 inch. And getting your hand down in the tight space to get them out without losing the washers was dicey.
I'm also not looking forward to putting that sucker back in...
I'm also not looking forward to putting that sucker back in...
strake
New Member
Great read, as I'm about to replace our GTXiS 2010 battery. I started looking in the dark hole, and can see the two 13mm bolts at the bottom that hold the battery assembly in place.
Does anyone know what the battery dimensions are, as I haven't taken it apart yet. I would prefer to buy an AMG battery rather than the one that came with it (acid screw fills). The local Sea Doo dealer only sells the stock, acid style battery. since this sits in the fancy battery holder, I need to get one basically identical in outside dimensions. I just don't know what those measurements are.
thanks
Richard
Does anyone know what the battery dimensions are, as I haven't taken it apart yet. I would prefer to buy an AMG battery rather than the one that came with it (acid screw fills). The local Sea Doo dealer only sells the stock, acid style battery. since this sits in the fancy battery holder, I need to get one basically identical in outside dimensions. I just don't know what those measurements are.
thanks
Richard
BMoreE
Member
Mine is 6 3/8" x 5" and 7 1/2" high.
lamajama
Well-Known Member
Mine is shown as a CTX30L and is 6 1/2" wide by 5" deep and 7" tall. 2004 GTX
Grapeescape
New Member
Most complicated ridiculous setup I have ever seen. Obviously Seadoo has too many engineers with nothing better to do.
strake
New Member
I agree......... that's why I was asking for specifics........ fancy, over engineered plastic housing to hold the battery makes for less choices on getting a battery replaced. Let alone the task of doing so....
thanks folks for the replies.
Richard
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