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Rectifier and regulator the same?

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Rabid

Active Member
Hello
Im new here and aquired a 1997 GTX that is depleating the charge in the battery. I replaced the battery and after riding it each time it seems the the battery isnt keeping up the charge. I went on a 2+ hour ride to charge the battery and when I got back to the dock the battery would just click the starter. Someone recommended replacing the rectifier. but in the post someone started replacing the regulator. is that the same as the rectifier?

Also the shop said that they replaced the starter relay to get rid of the low 12v message.

Thanks for the help
Rabid in Texas
 
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battery

this was happening on my '02 XP.

it's one of 2 places.

Either the stator, or the rectifier.

take it to your dealer, for 1/2 hr or less labor they have the tool to tell you if the stator is good... (the tool costs as much as this).

If its the stator, it's not too hard / bad. (mine was the stator)

the rectifier is built into the MPEM, but there is a guy who makes 'external' ones...

but step 1 is finding out which device it is...

I do all my own work, but the tool to test the rectifyer (specifically the connector leads) is like $30... for $30 they can do it for you...

DON'T waste your $$ on a used rectifier, not worth the hassle. buy a new one. Yes they are $300 vs $100... trust me. took me 2x to get one that worked... spend the $ and get a new one if that's the problem.
 
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I really apprciate the help

Im off the next couple of days..I will run it over. When I got the 97 I noticed that the previous owner had several batteries sitting around and I was wondering if there was a probem. I got the 97 with another side purchase.

I just bought one of the standard 90 day warranty sealed batties 6 months ago. Im looking into buying one of these. It has a 2 year warranty

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc625.htm

Rabid in Texas
 
Previous post suggestion for rectifier

just found this from a previous post for the rectifier

QUOTE:
If your looking to test the magneto and regulator/rectifier..........all you need to do is have a cheap, digital multi tester. You can hook your ski up to the hose, start the motor, start the water, then set the meter on 20 VDC or higher, depending on your testers range. Then, put the positive and negative on the battery post. IF all works, you should have anywhere from 13.8 to 14.2 VDC on the battery terminal. You don't have to rev it to 5k for this. If you only get 12 VDC while the ski is running, you got a problem.
__________________
 
Also with that test, if you get more than 15 volts, the regulator is bad.
The voltage regulator is incorporated in with the rectifier as one part. The magneto produces AC current and the rectifier changes it to DC current. The voltage regulator keeps the voltage below 14.5 - 15 volts. You will find it in the front gray electrical box right next to the MPEM, it has 3 yellow wires and 1 red wire coming out of it.

Chester
 
finally go to check the voltage

I bought a battery load tester and it showed that static voltage was greater than 12 volts and when I added a load to it was in the good range. I tried to start it for 15 seconds and it turned over but did not fire. I let the starter cool and tried to fire it up and all I got was the pinion drive clicking forward. I used the battery charger and got the doo to fire up and checked the voltage and it was around 14.3. Im going to buy a new battery soon and clean all the connections to the starter.

is there anything else I should look at?
 
battery review

I ordered that battery with the two year warranty listed above and it really cranked over the engine after it had been sitting a while. It did a great job!! The cost was 98 dollars with a 2 year warranty

The battery I bought last year from the sea doo dealer initially was weak and I had to charge it after the first starting go around. 76 dollars with a 90 day warranty. POS!!!
 
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