Rebuilding a 951 and need sugestions on a good tap/die or thread restore kit

[Spunbearing]

Hi guys,

I have finally gotten all the parts for my 99 GTXL build and I am starting the engine clean up process. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a tap and die or thread restore kit to clean up the threads? They are either corroded or full of thread locker.

I have been checking the tool sites and they suggest Greenfield but I can't afford a whole set right now. Do you guys know the specific sizes I would need that would cover most of the engine work? That would save me the cost of buying a complete kit.

Thanks!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Have you checked into Craftsman, kobalt (Lowes) or Husky at Home Depot?
I bought a cheapie loooooooong time ago but it doesn't have the metric sizes we need for Rotax. Works ok to clean up as you are doing. I may be investing in a good one soon.
Check Harbor Freight, with the 20% off coupon, should be a decent price.

 

[Spunbearing]

I was hoping for something higher end then the ones you mentioned. Most of those have gone over seas for their production and the quality has taken a turn for the worst.

Does anyone know the sizes I would need to get?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Try Snap-on or SK

sorry but i don't know the sizes you may need. Many different size bolts on a Seadoo.

 

[racerxxx]

On my 787 I used the following:

M10X1.5
M8X1.25
M6X1.00
M5X0.8

These will be your most common taps. You can purchase them from McMaster Carr ( www.mcmaster.com) For a HSS (High Speed Steel) Tapered Tap with a D5 denotation(pitch diameter limit-I'll call it overcut) you can get them for $7 a piece, they are a decent tap, way better than a Harbor, Sears, Home Depot, Lowes etc... If you want to pay $13 each you can get a D3 denotation, less cut, your screw will feel tighter/positive (probably what Bombardier used) while you thread it in. All the M6-M10's I have are D5 or D6, the screws were just a hair looser threading in, but with the loctite your good to go, no worries. Your only chasing the threads so you don't need to spend a fortune on the tap, you just need sharp ones that are cut nice. All the big box store one's I see look like garbage, the flutes have burrs, way too much coating left on them etc.... You could probably get away with a cheap kit like THIS for cleaning the threads. Just remember to not rush the job, use plenty of oil, start the tap a few turns in then back out a turn or two, then go in a few turns, back out a few, then slowly keep working your way in, always reversing to clear the cut, and NEVER force it into the bottom of the hole. This is not what a machine shop would call a production tap, meaning it would not hold up to daily repetitive use, but for the average Joe it would be good. also remember to clean the threads of your screws as well, you can use a wire wheel in a bench grinder or the slow way a small wire brush, my preferred method. Also clean the holes after you tap them with brake clean or the like or the Loctite might not cure properly with the oil contamination.

 

[Spunbearing]

Has anyone tried the FMT - Standard USA brand at Fastenal? They have a High Speed Steel version of taps. I don't mind buying online but I do like dealing with a B/M store when returns might be possible.

 

[Dr Honda]

Fastenal can suck eggs !! (same with Granger) I've tried to use them at my shop a bunch of times... but their quality, and pricing sucks.

There is nothing wrong with the quality of craftsman's taps and dies, for light duty use. That's what I have at home. But I agree with Racerxxx. A good quality, industrial tap will work better. Heck... I can take a "Vermont" tap (from Kenametal) and put it in a cordless drill... and run it into a hole without worrying about breaking it.


In the shop... I use different brands, that I buy from industrial shops like Enco, McMaster Carr, MSC, etc.


What ever you buy... make sure they are lubed with a real tapping fluid. It will make all the difference. I use "Tap Magic" for any hand tapping.