ready to replace my drive shaft assembly, need pointers

[alindley]

Hey, at the end of last summer I had a pretty bad issue where I broke my drive shaft, Pto, and carbon seal. I ordered the parts from someone on here but didn't get them till middle of winter after I had alerady winterized it. So I just left it until now.

I have a new Pto, drive shaft and carbon seal, I was just wondering if there was anything else I needed? From the schematic it looks like there's a lot of seals. Do I need each seal? Or is there a way around that to just make it work?

I haven't even checked the box, or what else I had sitting around since the winter so I might be wrong, but I was just wondering if there's anything I can salvage? The drive shaft is inside of the ski right now,, I couldn't pull it out because there's still stuff attached to the shaft and I couldn't pull it thru the hole yet.

also does anyone have a nice walk thru for this procedure?

I have no experience other then taking it apart last summer. I also opened the jet pump bearing? cause someone told me to check the oil, it was all good but a bunch leaked out cause I didn't close it properly with the little ascrews. Is there a trick for that?

 

[bell99man]

Well, the cone should have a threaded plug in it. That would be the better way to check it. The oil is cheap so I would just waste that and refill if it looked good. When filling it, spin the impeller to pull the oil into the bearings. It helps burb it a little quicker. I'll look for a link and some photos.

 

[Thumper3322]

It really isn't that hard.

Go to Sbt site and get their manual for engine removal and install. Skip to the pto shaft install part. Pretty easy and straight forward.

 

[bell99man]

You don't have to remove the motor. Just start the procedure from that point.

 

[alindley]

Ok thanks. I did it all today, well most, I think I have to remove it and spin the carbon seal around, it all came together. I also have one plastic o ring I can't figure out where it goes, so I'm gonna check the manual when I get back

The only real problem I'm gonna have is getting that little c clip out? We only got it out by smashing it with a hammer. Does anyone have a trick? Cause I don't wanna break my new one, I smashed the old one and broke it, the half moon half ring, and a next metal piece goes around it

 

[Strizzo]

i think you're talking about the metal circlip and the stainless ring that rides against it? then the stainless ring contacts the carbon ring, right? you should be able to pop it off the shaft with a pair of needlenose pliers. i'm not sure how easy or hard it should be though, i've only put one on, never taken one off.

 

[alindley]

i think you're talking about the metal circlip and the stainless ring that rides against it? then the stainless ring contacts the carbon ring, right? you should be able to pop it off the shaft with a pair of needlenose pliers. i'm not sure how easy or hard it should be though, i've only put one on, never taken one off.

yea, right now i have it set up the way it in the pic, but its not stiff, and i have a rubber o ring sitting around the carbon seal not sure where it goes to?

but as it is, i put the circlip on, pushed the shaft in, and i see the big piece has to get past the circlip cause thats what keeps it on, is there any way to push the female part over the clip? to get it in far enough?>

 

[alindley]

 

[alindley]

 

[bell99man]

You can't put that on first. Shaft thru hull but not in pto yet. slide on bellows with carbon ring. Slide on stainless ring and then put shaft in pto. I think at this point it is easier to put the pump back on to hold the shaft still. Then you push back on the stainless ring until you see the groove for the circlip. Push circlip in and release stainless ring and bellows. They should slide over the ring enough to cover it. Then clamp down the bellows.

The clip must go in front of the ring. That is what holds it against the carbon ring. If you put the clip on first then the ring can't be put on behind it.

 

[bell99man]

Yep, you have the ring on the wrong side of the circlip. It should not be able to slide into the pto boot.

 

[alindley]

You can't put that on first. Shaft thru hull but not in pto yet. slide on bellows with carbon ring. Slide on stainless ring and then put shaft in pto. I think at this point it is easier to put the pump back on to hold the shaft still. Then you push back on the stainless ring until you see the groove for the circlip. Push circlip in and release stainless ring and bellows. They should slide over the ring enough to cover it. Then clamp down the bellows.

The clip must go in front of the ring. That is what holds it against the carbon ring. If you put the clip on first then the ring can't be put on behind it.

ok so at this point what should i do? pull the shaft back out, take the half room ring off (how do i do this properly without breaking it i had a hard time getting it off the first time)

then slide it all back in, compress the boot till i can see the circlet, the pop the half moon on, and let it go back to size in which is should all be solid?

i also have 1 rubber o ring in here doing nothing not sure where to put it

its just around the carbon ring/boot

 

[alindley]

Ok, I THINK i got this done

<--- this is how it is now just chilling around the meet up spot

<---- See this rubber ring??? i just put it around where the seal and the steel thing meet, but its not really tight or anything???

I was just wondering how tight the seal and the metal thing have to be? I tightened it all i can, but with my hand i can seperate the seal and the metal part....

Other then that I' 99% sure I'm done here, was just looking for any tips before i put it in the water and HOPEFULLY not sink... cause that would be terrible...

Anything I need before starting it now? Havent touched it since its been winterized... Drop in the water, fresh gas oil, crank her and go??

 

[Thumper3322]

What the hell is that rubber washer doing around the carbon seal? Nothing goes around it.

Also, you need a Seadoo clip or zip tie on the pto boot where the shaft goes into the pto. And put synthetic grease in there using the tit.

Hey fuel lines should be changed out if not done. And selector valve cleaned etc.

 

[Strizzo]

there should be light to moderate pressure between the stainless ring and the carbon seal, you should be able to pull them apart by hand, but when in the water there shouldn't be more than an occasional drop coming from the joint. i don't know where those o-rings came from, they look like the pump cone o-rings if they're not stretched out. if they are stretched in that picture, they might have come from the stainless floating ring, you did replace the o-rings in it didn't you?

how the seal works is the stainless floating ring should have two o-rings inside to seal it to the driveshaft, then it turns with the driveshaft and is held against the carbon ring by your half moon ring circlip. the carbon seals against the stainless ring and is lubricated by the water it is sealing out of the hull.

 

[alindley]

What the hell is that rubber washer doing around the carbon seal? Nothing goes around it.

Also, you need a Seadoo clip or zip tie on the pto boot where the shaft goes into the pto. And put synthetic grease in there using the tit.

Hey fuel lines should be changed out if not done. And selector valve cleaned etc.

No clue, It was just an extra piece I got sent, had no clue where it went, around the carbon seal was the only place it fit properly...

How do I do fuel lines and selector valve? I wanna tune this up properly before i put it back in the water, just to know everything is good, so anything else or more work i should do i will do it asap. I have zip ties so ill throw one on the pto boot, and I used waterproof grease on everything. Filled up the boot with grease and anywhere there was metal just filllled with water proof grease.

Strizzo

there should be light to moderate pressure between the stainless ring and the carbon seal, you should be able to pull them apart by hand, but when in the water there shouldn't be more than an occasional drop coming from the joint. i don't know where those o-rings came from, they look like the pump cone o-rings if they're not stretched out. if they are stretched in that picture, they might have come from the stainless floating ring, you did replace the o-rings in it didn't you?

how the seal works is the stainless floating ring should have two o-rings inside to seal it to the driveshaft, then it turns with the driveshaft and is held against the carbon ring by your half moon ring circlip. the carbon seals against the stainless ring and is lubricated by the water it is sealing out of the hull.

Ok, theres light pressure thats what iwas worried about, that it had to have huge pressure that it couldnt move.

As I was saying it was just an extra part I was sent no clue where it goes. On the impeller where you connect the pump cone thats filled with oil, does it need a seal? cause I took it apart, dumped the oil and put it back together but there was no seal around that.

The floating ring is the part that goes against the little half clip? there were 2 o rings inside of it.

 

[Thumper3322]

That extra o ring was probably for your cone. Did you buy a package or something that came with all the parts you need?

Sounds like you have the carbon ring done right now. Water test will show you.

Yes the pump cone had a o ring. When you pull the cone off you can see it. They can be reused if still in good condition.

Fuel lines, do some searching on here. There is so much on that. If they are grey tempo lines they have to be done. Not hard job, just time consuming.

Selector valve comes out easily and only one screw holding the cover on.

When you do this stuff look at micro fiche from the parts section on this site. It will help lots when taking apart and putting things back together.

 

[alindley]

That extra o ring was probably for your cone. Did you buy a package or something that came with all the parts you need?

Sounds like you have the carbon ring done right now. Water test will show you.

Yes the pump cone had a o ring. When you pull the cone off you can see it. They can be reused if still in good condition.

Fuel lines, do some searching on here. There is so much on that. If they are grey tempo lines they have to be done. Not hard job, just time consuming.

Selector valve comes out easily and only one screw holding the cover on.

When you do this stuff look at micro fiche from the parts section on this site. It will help lots when taking apart and putting things back together.

Yea, I'm thinking the ring was the cone. Because when we took it off there was no ring, it just barely fit around the cone, and kept popping off before we could put it on, so took it off and just left it with the seal. I guess I'll just order a next one.

For the fuel lines, is that something I should do right now, or should I test my ski and see how it is? All the lines are really clean and new, was swapped the summer before.

I did a bunch of searchs for selector valve, and it only came up with the fuel line replacement, but if its one screw I'll def take it out and clean it before I go.

And is micro fiche a user name? cause I couldnt find whatyou were tryna say.. When I go to parts I just get linked to http://www.seadoowarehouse.com/, is it in there?

 

[alindley]

bump anyone?

 

[Strizzo]

There is a groove in the pump cone, the old o ring is probably flattened out so its hard to tell its there right now. Did you pressure test the pump after you put everything back together?

 

[alindley]

No I didn't. How do I do that?

 

[Johnnie J]

Hi. I'm new to this forum. I replaced my carbon ring on my 1996 GTS. It originally had the o ring holding the floating ring. The new replacement is the
C clip. I got in on and the floating ring butts up against it. There seems to be no way the floating ring will go over it like it did with the o ring. Is this the way it is suppose to be? Thanks