Re-sealing ride shoes vs. new wear ring/seal/pump rebuild?

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Our 1996 Speedster cavitates...bad on take off. It revs to the moon for about 15 seconds before getting enough flow to come up on plane.


I've ordered the new wear ring and neoprene seal for the pump. I'm wondering if I can rebuild the pump and still leave the ride shoes alone and in place?

Should I deal with the pump first then come back and re seal the ride shoes if it still cavitates after rebuilding the pumps?


Thanks,

Donnie
 
The ride shoe is glued in, and dang near impossible to remove. So, re-sealing it is just cleaning out the cracks, and putting in a fat bead of RTV.

The kind of cavitation you are describing is a bad carbon seal on the driveshaft.
 
You are a wonderful person and a God send.

Thank you, I was dreading attempting to remove that thing. Hopefully the carbon ring isn’t as bad lol.

I already had one on the watch list but didn’t know at what point or how to check.

I saw in another older post that you don’t use your factory bilge pump/water sensor...keep in mind this is my first boat.
How do you know when to turn the pump on? Do you just kick it on for a few every hour or so? It seems that the discharge hose is at the rear under the swim deck and without emptying the trunk and checking under the cover..how do you know there is water in the bilge to discharge?

Thanks again
Donnie
 
If you don't trust the factory sensor and pump - just activate the pump when your cursing around - the annoying sound will be overcome by the sound of the music, engine, and the wind. Then take a look at the export and see if there is any water being pumped. Turn it off when not needed - All GOOD!!!
 
The carbon seal isn't expensive... or hard to replace. But... I'm guessing you will replace the wear ring... and you will still have the issue.

As far as the bilge pump... yes... I just kick it on every once in a while. You can put an auto pump in... but they are more expensive, and I haven't had one last more than a season or two.
 
I won't replace the wear ring(s). Not yet anyway. I'm just waiting to see if this will work before ordering....Sea Doo Carbon Seal Drive Line Rebuild Kit & Boot All 787 800 SPX XP GTX GSX 685867153931 | eBay


From what I read around here...your opinion and advice I trust very much when it comes to Seadoos.

Since I already paid for and ordered the wear rings and seals...I'll just keep them in the garage for if they ever do need replacement. Might even return one set and keep one.


If I put an aftermarket bilge pump wired in with the factory sensor, would it still work properly?


Thanks,

Donnie
 
Oh and while I have the pumps off...should I just change the pump oil so I know it's been done or is it not that big of a worry?
 
You should replace the pump oil every season, BEFORE you put it away for the winter. That way... if you find water in there... you won't have rotten bearings in the spring.
 
So I can’t get that carbon steel to move backwards far enough or I’m doing something wrong to pull the driveshaft. I have the O-rings removed I think and will post pictures soon but when I yank on the driveshaft it doesn’t want to come out.
 

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I put a block of wood on the PTO flywheel, and then use a tire spoon to push on the back of the stainless ring. It's almost impossible to do it by hand.

BUT... it's absolutely impossible to do with the pump off. You need that in place to stop the drive shaft from moving. (is your pump off?)
 
The pump on the first photo is removed. The pump on the second one is not.
It looked liked the o ring is already moved up to the front?
I will bolt the pump back up if that’s not it.
Had my neighbor come over and help me too.

I did end up getting the carbs right off like you said just loosening the cables and pulling the barrel ends right off.

Can only imagine how tough it’s going to be to get these things back on.

Do you happen to know which removal tool is the correct part number for a 1996 717 engine?
It’s $120 but it’s worth it to me. I’d also pay a forum member like $50 to let me rent and ship back :)
 
Got it!

Saw a photo or video where a guy used a pair of channel locks with a zip tie around the very end of the handle then I was able to pry against both sides at once using a tow hitch at a block against three flywheel/balancer. Then I just used a pick and grabbed the o ring and cut it with a razor blade

Will see how hard it is to get the c clip back in there before I drop $100 on the tool.

Heading to seadoo dealer now to see about carb gaskets
 
OK I have another day off and I’m out here working on the boat right now, I cannot get the driveshaft out. I was able to get the O-ring out and get the pump off the back but the driveshaft even after removing the white “sheath” off the rear of the driveshaft it will not pop out. I’ve yanked on it pretty hard. It probably has not been removed in 20 years.
Any tips on how to get the driveshaft itself to pop out of the back of the engine? I’ve tried spinning it over by hand, putting rag on it and pulling with pliers...?
 
See attached photos..
 

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You need to unclip the stainless clamp on the rubber boot where the driveshaft goes into the back of the engine. That clamp and boot are holding the driveshaft.
 
THe one on the small end of that boot that is clamping down on the driveshaft itself.
 
Do yourself a HUGE favor. When you put it back together, grease the parts up so it will actually come apart the next time you need to work on it.

One handed, while shooting the video with my other hand. I'm right handed, so that is my awkward left hand pulling that back. Yes, it should work that smoothly, when greased. I only have issues when I work on skis/boats that people haven't taken care of them, that is when I see them stuck and stubborn. Don't forget when you have the pump back on to pump grease into the PTO to push the driveshaft backwards. Just pump until the driveshaft JUST stops moving backward.


Here is the kit to end all kits for the carbon seal. They even sell the OEM boot for $19, so for $10 more that what you paid, plus shipping ($8 unless you spend over $99 then you get free shipping), but the stainless part is thicker and puts an extra 1/8" of positive pressure on the carbon seal. I love these things.

OSD Sea Doo Carbon Seal Kit - Heavy Duty (2 STROKE) [OSD2004] - $54.99

I hope that bellows that came in that kit is stiff like the original one. If not that's no bueno. I have heard complaints that those are too soft and compress too easily. I only use OEM bellows on the driveline.

Leave that white shaft protector off, those alone can cause cavitation. Their sole purpose it to lose their life if you suck up a ski rope. So.....pay attention to the rope if you're doing watersports off the back of the boat.

 
Ok so I’ve got some scarring on the wear ring and some knicks on the impeller...since I already have new wear rings I’m going to order an impeller removal tool and replace those.

On the little clamp on the front that hold the front of the drive shaft...can I use a zip tie in place of the hose clamp or should I reuse the one that came off?


Will remove that white shaft protector, thank you. The bellows kit, carbon seal and stainless collar seem to be of good quality and pretty stiff. Will see how it holds up though, I did take some synthetic grease to the shaft before installing so I figure if this kit doesn’t hold up too well, I’ll have it hopefully greased enough to where I can use the one you shared in the link above and do it again later this winter.

At this point, I really just want to get back out on the water before the lake drops too much and then will do the paint/interior/graphics/hydro turf part of the restoration once it is running.


Got the gas gauge fixed today thanks to the forum! The float magnet popped off...new float and all fixed. Replacing fuel lines tomorrow and getting other carb rebuilt and mounted back up.
 
Do you guys happen to know if a zip tie will suffice for the front on that driveshaft on the boot that holds the grease in? I saved the little clamp and can probably reuse but the zip ties sure make it easier!
 
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