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Rave valves Won't stay engaged

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Brant

Brant

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Hey Out there! I cleaned my Rave valves and have added some new problems. When I hit the throttle sometimes the raves don't come on at all and it only revs 5000. if I let off and hit it hard they will come on. Also after i feel them kick in I'll try to cuise around 5500-6000 after a minute or so I can feel a loss of power, Slows back down to 5000. I then have to let off and re-apply hard to get the raves back on line. I have the red caps all the way in now but tried to back them out flush and she ran like garbage, bogging and surging....Anyone ever had this happen? Should I try and adjust the red caps part way?....Thanks...Brant
 
Brant said:
Hey Out there! I cleaned my Rave valves and have added some new problems. When I hit the throttle sometimes the raves don't come on at all and it only revs 5000. if I let off and hit it hard they will come on. Also after i feel them kick in I'll try to cuise around 5500-6000 after a minute or so I can feel a loss of power, Slows back down to 5000. I then have to let off and re-apply hard to get the raves back on line. I have the red caps all the way in now but tried to back them out flush and she ran like garbage, bogging and surging....Anyone ever had this happen? Should I try and adjust the red caps part way?....Thanks...Brant
Click to expand...

Backing the caps off reduces the spring pressure on the spring that holds them closed, if they're like mine. So, reduce the spring pressure by increments by backing out the caps until they begin to operate smoothly? Or vice versa from flush, tighten caps till engine operates well at lower speed and the valves still open as throttle is increased.

Mine are enabled by the MPEM through an air solenoid. My understanding is with this setup, the cap adjustment doesn't have much effect.
 
New fuel lines, selector valve and carbs cleaned last year. I'll try and ajust the caps by increments. Its a 97 GTX so there is no solenoid...BRANT
 
If you completely took the springs out of the RAVES it wouldn't "limit" your rpms. The RAVES if clean will not effect the overall power of the machine no matter how much you adjust the cap. They only affect the power band. The more turned in, the later it kicks in, the more turned out, the sooner they open.

Sounds more like a fuel delivery issue to me. I'm not an expert, but I would be looking more in that direction.
 
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I'm listening! Thanks for the input. I also had a water leak at the rear valve and replaced the diaphram at the same time as the raves were cleaned. Could that water valve affect the rpm?
 
Yes if the water valve is flowing too much water into the cone pipe at higher RPMs, the cone pipe water flow is reduced as exhaust pressure in the water box increases it pushes the spindle valve upward and diverts water into the waterbox.
 
agree with GTXMAX, raves will not cause bogging/surging. sounds like a fuel system problem or a bad rectifier. check for A/C voltage across your battery while the ski is running.
 
Good call on the rectifier. Forgot that one. Its an easy possibility to eliminate. Unhook the red wire going into the regulator and go for a ride. If it clears up and runs correct replace the voltage regulator. Just remember, your battery will not charge with this red wire unhooked.
 
Check all your rave lines. You may have a hole and be losing pressure somewhere in the system. The RAVES may not be the problem as others have mentioned but seems odd that something else would malfunction at the same time you serviced the raves. You have not mentioned anything about it performed prior to the work you did. What was it doing that made you decide to clean the raves?

If you want to eliminate them from the equation just unplug them and see how it runs. Even with them non-functional the engine should still accelerate smoothly and run smooth.
 
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Good thought though. I've never owned a 951 nor Rfi ski, so I'm not very familiar with the RAVE set up that uses the solenoid.
 
That's what makes this place great right. Little collective knowledge here and there and we can fix about anything.
 
Just pull the regulator red wire(or the whole connector) and go for a ride, this will tell you if it's a charging circuit issue. Make plans for getting back to dock (I carry a paddle), the battery will no longer be charging.
 
I'm planning a 50 mile ride tomorrow. How long will this thing run without charging? Could be a long paddle!!! BTW My water valve was leaking so when i had it apart I looked under the rave caps and noticed the #1 rave piston was broken so I cleaned them both when I replaced it. Ski was running really good up to that point. However it would require a throttle jab once in a while to get full revs. I thought a bad rectifier caused the thing to run like poo not limit the revs????
 
Well yes, some people have reported their voltage regulator bit the dust and was passing AC into the charging circuit, not sure how much AC is too much but the symptom was they couldn't get the engine to rev out (apparently the AC feeding into the charging system increases with RPM) and the ignition system poops out and stops firing the plugs.

So you've got some ideas for a few things to check, I'd do it for ya if I was there but I can't! :)

I dunno, maybe it just needs new plugs or the wires are burned and need to be clipped back 1/4" or so?

Unfortunately this armchair mechaniking stuff doesn't anyways lead to the root cause....... doesn't stop me from trying though.

If you're going on a 50mi ride then you better get off your duff and let that thing know who's boss! (take a long a paddle 'case'n it wants to spank you!) Make a plan A, a plan B, a plan C.......?
 
Thanks for the help! I checked for A/C voltage and got 24v while the engine was off and 29v idleing. Then I tested a battery on the shop floor and got 24v A/C????? Then i used another meter and got the same readings. I didn't think D/C batteries would register A/C voltage. Anyhow, Here's what I've done; I changed the plugs, clipped 1/4" off the spark plug wires, Re-cleaned the raves. Put a long paddle in the bucket and I'm off to lake Erie tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it went..........Brant
 
Well I got out on the water today and she runs a bit better. Still won't rev up to 7000 every time. It seems to hang up at 5000 and then sometimes it will feel like it just kicks in and takes off. Other times I have to let off and give it throttle hard, Then it kicks in.....???? I got other problems Though........My other 97 crapped out a rod bearing after 5 miles and I had to tow it back....Had plan A-B-C & D. I didn't count on plan "F#@*.....That put an end to our day.........Almost too close to the end to bother fixing it....Damn short summers...........
 
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I always hate plan 'F! :)

12v DC batteries aren't 29v or 24v, and they don't produce AC. I've noticed some meters nowadays register AC on a DC circuit when there isn't any, the cheapo ones made in China. I have one that does, paid $9 for it at Harbor Freight.

I hope you pulled the disabled the rectifier/regulator as a test.

I can't think of anything else off hand that hasn't already been suggested.
 
My meters are the cheap ones. I have a good one at the cottage I'll run a few more checks on the week-end. I never got to pull the red wire! We were just happy the thing let go where it did. One hour later and we'd have been in deep!!!! Towing is a slow ordeal......
 
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