Ok from the beginning. I have a 2001 XP and everything was perfect until one night my steering cable leaked water fast enough to fill the inside of my ski up with water. It was deep enough to get inside the cylinders. I pulled it out of the water pulled the spark plugs out and got all the water out of the engine and put the plugs back and and it fired right up. So i put the hose on it and let it idle for about 20 mins to make sure I had gotten all the water out of the engine. At this time everything sounded and looked good. The next time I put it in the water(next weekend) everything seemed okay until I got to WOT and it would not get over 6100rpm supposed to be at 7k. So I took it home and got the carbs off only to find water inside the carbs. So I cleaned them out and put it back together. Decided to get the steering cable leaked stopped so I took the pump out and fixed the leak, and while I had the pump out I decided I would change the oil in the pump so I put a synthetic 10-40w in it as replacement. On this rebuild I started the high speed jet roughly at 1/8 turn(cap is in the middle position) out on each carb. When I ran it this time, it only got 6500rpm. So I pulled it out and turned the cap all the way closed which should put it at the zero point and there was little to no change between 6300 and 6400rpm. I rebuilt the carbs last year when I first bought the ski and I guess I got lucky on the positioning of the high speed screw, because it ran perfectly on the first setting(just cant remember exactly where I set it, didnt know it was that important at the time). I am just curious if I am looking in the right place as to what the problem is with the lost rpm. Compression is 120psi on each cylinder which is what it was before the water incident. My next idea is to open the caps all the way out which should be about 1/4 out from the zero point. I just do not have a lot of confidence that this is going to fix my problem.
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Power Loss
- Thread starter mccordb
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Ok I cleaned the rave valves and still no change, does anyone know what kind of tolerance there is on the exact positioning of the high speed screw. I am wondering if I am even looking in the right spot. I have tried it at the whole range that the cap will allow me to adjust it and there is little to no change. I lose a few rpms at the full open position. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have adjusted my carbs high speed screw over the whole travel of the cap and there is little to no change in top end rpms, I also removed the RAVE valves and cleaned them very well and still no change. I am thinking that is is something other than the carbs now. Is there a test you can do for the water regulator, I see where there is a possibility that it could cause the loss in rmps. Also, I removed the pump housing to fix the steering cable and I am not sure if I remember seeing a shim, is there a way to check the alignment of the pump housing?
ok i checked the elec boxes for water and they were dry. I think I am going to pull the carbs back off and make sure I got the HSA set in the right spot. What are the chances that if a shim was under the pump housing and I didn't notice it when I pulled it off that it could be the cause of the RPM loss? Also is there a way to check the alignment of the pump housing?
Yeah it has the neoprene seal. I checked water regulator yesterday and it moved up and down with ease and there wasnt any trash in the lines. If when I get the carbs off and readjusted it doesn't fix it I am going to be out of options. I cut the plug wires back ab 1/4" and put new plugs in it.
ok i have taken the carbs back off and got everything set, I have cleaned the rave valves, and compression is at 110. I now have no idea what else could be causing the 600rpm loss on the top end. Idle, take off, and cruise it all seems fine it just cant get to 7k in the water. Any ideas, I am almost to the point I think I need to rebuild? Like I said it had a leak and fill up with water over night and I tried to start it not knowing there was water in the engine and since that point I have not been able to get the rpms up. The day before it filled with water it was great.
undies1993
New Member
Just on a side note, I have heard that you should not run it for more than 5 minutes on the hose.
compression IS low, and with it filling up with water, and you not knowing, and hit start button. Need to pull carbs off, again, and inspect the reed pedals.
The W.R., will move easy, if the "set-bolt" has unscrewed itself. Located at bottom of valve.
Ok so what am I looking for to repair or replace reed petals? Secondly how exactly do you get the WR out of the exhaust?
well i checked it after i bought it last year and it was reading 120 and turning 7k with no problems. and after the water got in it and i noticed that it would only do 6500 i checked it again and it was showing 120 so i cleaned carbs and run it again with no change, then i cleaned the rave valves and again no change. so i checked comp again and it was showing 110....if i do i new top end i was thinking about going with .020 over and maybe even shaving down the head a little but i would like to make sure that there is not some other problem that i can not find....
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