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??? Please help please ??? 1995 seadoo spx

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DRAGRACER1107

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i BOUGHT A 95 SPX TWO WEEKS AGO, IT HAD BEEN SITTING SINCE LAST YEAR, THE GUY TOLD ME IT MAY NEED THE CARBS CLEANED. i BOUGHT IT SO i WOULD HAVE SOMETHING TO TAKE ON OUR ANNIVERSARY TO THE LAKE, i HAVE 1 WEEK LEFT TO FIX THIS THING. IT WILL START RIGHT UP BUT DOESNT SOUND RIGHT, IT WILL REV, BUT AFTER A FEW MINUTES IT DIES LIKE IT RAN OUT OF FUEL. LET IT SIT A FEW MINUTES AND IT WILL START AGAIN AND DO THE SAME THING. i CLEANED THE CARBS AND PUT A NEW PUMP DIAPHRAM IN, NO DIFFERENCE, THEN i NOTICED THE FUEL BOWL UNDER THE HOOD WAS NOT FULL. i BYPASSED EVERYTHING AND PULL FUEL STRAIGHT FROM THE TANK AND SAME THING. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS
 
Yes

You need to replace the grey fuel lines. What happens is these lines are actually laminated and the glue between the laminations deterioates with age and produces a green goo that goes everywhere in the fuel delivery system.

You need to replace the grey fuel lines with 1/4" black rubber fuel line. You can get the fuel line from and auto parts store, you will need about 20' and about 20 stainless steel clamps (if you redo the vent lines you'll need 25').
It's not too hard of a job just start at the fuel baffel and replace one at a time following the original paths.

You will also need to replace or clean the main fuel filter, both carb filters, and replace the fuel selector switch. Use soap and water and a little degreaser to clean the main and carb filters. Since your carbs. have just been cleaned you may get by without cleaning the carb filters. I would check with the original owner and see if you can find out when this was done.

I have not had a lot of luck cleaning the fuel selector, if you get a new one use the newer type, the knobs on the old style always crack.

Also I didn't do the vent hoses on mine since these lines are not part of the fuel delivery system.

Lou
 
WHEN I WAS MESSING WITH IT YESTERDAY I WAS TRYING TO PULL THE BAFFLE OFF AND ALL FOUR LINES CAME OFF, i AM PRETTY SURE i GOT THEM BACK ON RIGHT, BUT IS THERE A WAY TO TELL FOR SURE? SOMETIMES THE FUEL FILTER BOWL UNDER THE HOOD IS ONLY HALF FULL OF FUEL, COULD THAT BE MY PROBLEM, IF SO WILL REPLACING THE FUEL LINES HELP. THE LINES ALL FEEL LOOSE NOT LOOSE ENOUGH TO COME OFF BUT I CAN TURM THE LINES.
 
Anytime air enters the fuel or oil system you risk having a lean burnout, the longer you wait to fix it the closer you get to the need for a new motor and fix the cause of the original problem, if you look at the top of the tank there are markings, but they are 2 vents and the reserve which is at the bottom and the main that draws about 2 inches from the bottom so you do not get all the steel gas can trash. If you take the main line off the control switch and gently blow in the tank you may hear some bubbling, now do the same with the reserve line - it will have a deeper or lower pitched sound as it is the bottom of the tank, reset your lines as needed and then remove the carbs so you can clean the tiny basket filters - it is best done with the carbs in a metal cookie sheet so any part that drops is recovered, this is very hard in the hull and much harder on the water. Mark the oil tank with some tape and be sure the motor is drinking, you can use premix gas until you know it pumps oil thru the nozzles, many times oil clogs develop when oil of one brand is mixed with another - always get the old oil bottle or choose a supplier close to home so you do not have to clean the oiling system often, kerosene will flush most clogs out while you use premix gas 32-1 is the ratio you are aiming for in the tank while you get the old motor back on its legs, if you do this each season you will have a summer of fun, once you see the oil drinking just fill with gas and go.
 
Grey Fuel Lines

Hi,

Check this link out it answers you question about the fuel baffel plus a wealth of information about the grey fuel line problems.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=5563

The grey fuel lines are usually loose probably because of the deterioration.

Have you been able to find out when the carbs were cleaned? This is important because you will save your self a lot of work if you don't have to pull the carbs.

I believe the fuel bowl shoud be pretty full, so you probably have an air leak due to the old hoses.

Lou
 
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THIS IS GREAT ALL THIS INFO, THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP. i CLEANED THE CARBS MYSELF, ONE WEEK AGO, AFTER i TOOK IT TO THE LAKE FOR THE FIRST TIME THIS SEASON, THAT IS WHEN THIS PROBLEM AROSE, EVEN AFTER CLEANING THE CARBS AGAIN i THOUGHT i WOULD GO BACK IN AND SE IF i MISSED SOMETHING AND THEY WERE STILL CLEAN, BUT i DECIDED TO REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP DIAPHRAM WHILE I WAS IN THERE.
 
Ok all fuel lines replaced now it's doing the same thing it will start but keeps trying to die on the low end you can keep it reved up and it will stay running but let it fall very far and it back fires threw the cArbs, any ideas. I still think it's a fuel problem, because it will start right back up after a few minutes
 
ALRIGHT, i JUST TOOK THE ROTARY VALVE COVER OFF AND OF COURSE THE ROTARY VALVE FELL OFF, SO NOW HOW DO I TIME THIS THING, MAYBE THIS IS MY PROBLEM? WE WILL SEE. I DO KNOW THE FUEL SYSTEM IS WORKING NOW THE FUEL BOWL IS FULL. i DID NOTICE THAT THE MAG SPARK PLUG LOOKED A LITTLE DARKER THAN THE OTHER ONE SO MAYBE ITS A LITTLE LEAN ON THAT CYLINDER, I MIGHT HAVE MISSED SOMETHING IN THE CARBS. THEY ARE COMING OFF NOW.
 
Fuel Selector Valve

Did you change the fuel selector valve? Changing it made a big difference on my ski.

Lou
 
NO BUT I TOOK IT COMPLETELY APART AND CLEANED IT, WITH A WIRE BRUSH, INSTALLED NEW ORING, IT IS GOOD AS NEW, I CAN BLOW THREW IN ON POS AND ON RESERVE, I REALY DONT THINK THAT IS IT BUT MONDAY WHEN SOMEONE IS OPEN i WILL GO BUY ONE ANYWAYS. ANYONE THINK IT SOUNDS LIKE A ROTARY VALVE PROBLEM?
 
The reason I mentioned the fuel selector is, when I took mine apart there were remains of either an O ring or a gasket inside that I assumed was part of the original valve. So after I cleaned it, and reassembled, the valve would leak fuel and therefore would let air into the system.

Lou
 
I will get one on monday, also finally got the rotary valve back toghether hopefully right, but went by the service manual so should be right. Tomorrow morning i will be putting the carbs back on and running it to see if anything has changed. Tonight i will be ripping the carbs back apart and going threw them with a magnifying glass to make sure. We shal see.
 
sloe da roe...

Alright homeboy, first, stop typing with CAPS on...:D

Next, the rv needs to be set at 147/65, so properly aligned/installed, the front(mag) hole, should be exposed, with the front piston, being at TDC. The tip of each blade, top blade should be around the 10"00-ish mark, and bottom tip aorund 4;30/5:00-ish.

Next, the fuel line goin to the carb, follow that line back to the filter, remove it, and take it to directly to the "res" fitting on tank(next to the pink wires). Use a flashlight..etc, to verify the markings. Take the "on" fitting line, and go to the "outlet" fitting on the selector switch, and then on switch, loop the on/res fitting. Leave the switch on "off".

Doing this, your bypassing the filter and selector switch, it aint venting fumes into the hull, choking out the motor....:cheers:
 
THANKS HOMEBOY!!!! I will give that a try, but im leaning towards something else now like maybe something in the carbs or maybe a float sticking closed just seaping a little fuel. like i said the motor will start up sound good for a few minutes and then just die if idleing, if im running the rpms up a little it will stay running but not very good and its doing a little back fireing while doing all this. just got the kids to bed time to rip the carbs back apart.
 
Ok at it again and running out of time, has to be running by friday (thats when we leave on our anniversary trip). I completely redid the fuel system front to back, then completly rebuilt the carbs, still the same problem, it will start, run for a little bit it will rev just seems to have a slight miss, then die after a while, i checked the spark after it died and little to none very speratic, i know its something electrical now but what, i am going to start at the electrical box, and any help would be appreciated. when its done it should be a near new machine thought.
 
Ok just pulled the electrical box out and it is clean as new inside there was 1 wire that has a little tear in it, it was the temp sensor, so i soldered it back toghether and put a heat shrink on it. everything else looked great dry and clean. after it starts it will run for a little while then die then I checked the spark and none, then everynow and then there is a little? I'm thinking coil anyone agree. thanks again for the input.
 
DRAGRACER1107 said:
i BOUGHT A 95 SPX TWO WEEKS AGO, IT HAD BEEN SITTING SINCE LAST YEAR, THE GUY TOLD ME IT MAY NEED THE CARBS CLEANED. i BOUGHT IT SO i WOULD HAVE SOMETHING TO TAKE ON OUR ANNIVERSARY TO THE LAKE, i HAVE 1 WEEK LEFT TO FIX THIS THING. IT WILL START RIGHT UP BUT DOESNT SOUND RIGHT, IT WILL REV, BUT AFTER A FEW MINUTES IT DIES LIKE IT RAN OUT OF FUEL. LET IT SIT A FEW MINUTES AND IT WILL START AGAIN AND DO THE SAME THING. i CLEANED THE CARBS AND PUT A NEW PUMP DIAPHRAM IN, NO DIFFERENCE, THEN i NOTICED THE FUEL BOWL UNDER THE HOOD WAS NOT FULL. i BYPASSED EVERYTHING AND PULL FUEL STRAIGHT FROM THE TANK AND SAME THING. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS
Click to expand...

If the main fuel filter isn't full, then you have a fuel leak somewhere and the lines are sucking in air. Double check ALL fuel hoses. Make sure everything is snug and tight. You can pressure test the lines to find the leak.
 
So I have narrowed it down to an electrical problem. I went to page 125 of the manual, and did the ENGINE START/STOP SWITCH VERIFICATION it was good, then did the SAFETY LANYARD SWITCH VERIFICATION and is was good, then the TIMER DELAY VERIFICATION also good, then on to the MPEM VERIFICATION AND THERE WERE 2 TESTS OUT OF 9 THAT CHECKED OUT OK. DOES THIS SOUND LIKE A FAULTY MPEM, IF THERE ANOTHER WAY TO CHECK THE MPEM I WOULD LOVE TO SO I DONT WAST A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS
 
rev limiter

alright, in the ebox, locate the coil. You'l see a blk/red wire going to it, then it branches off to a butt connector. Unplug the connector, and try to fire it up. If it fires, then you'll need to pull the choke, to kill it. Leave the blk/rd wire, still attached to the coil.

Also, remove the sparkplug boots, and trim off 1/4in of wire, then re-install boots.
 
Ok no problem, but what exactly am i doing there. Is it taking the rev limiter away? If so is the rev limiter the problem, and if so is there a fix for it? thanks for the help.
 
the fix

yup, new mpem. Just seeing ,if it does start, then you got/starting, have issue within the board, on the limiter side....common thing.

If it doesnt start, then atleast, the limiter in within, is still functioning correctly, then i'd take next step to clipping the plug wires.
 
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