• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Please help me validate what the mechanic said.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I paid a Seadoo shop to rebuild it. The main jet appears to be squirting fine. I just went through it, minus pop-off and everything seems to be working correctly. I took the fuel pump apart and it looks like the previous owners mechanic actually rebuilt that.

I'll triple check the jet, check my idle and high screws, recheck the plugs and then...I don't know what, pull the head?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
First, thank you all for helping. I would be lost without this forum and all of you.

I called the dealer that rebuilt the carb. Told him what was happening and asked if there might be too much oil getting to this motor. I noticed that a noticeable amount of more smoke was coming out of the port motor than the stargboard. He told me not to adjust that cable but to try changing the plugs and check spark.

The plugs were oil fouled in a bad way. Put two new plugs and have perfect spark. Started it up and it sounds much better. Going to head to the water later and test.

Question: Can you adjust the amount of oil? What is the proper setting? How do you set it for Rotax 717?
 
Test failed. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday but I think it's the fuel pump. Problem is there is a lot wrong with this boat, cables are installed wrong, carbs not right, blah blah.

Let you all know what the final diagnosis is.
 
The oil pump is hard to access on flat top motors, look at the pictures of the pump and observe the lines - best way is to clean them off with laquer thinner and put dots of nail polish on both sides of the lines, then you can set them so much quicker.
 
The oil pump is fine, it's the fuel pump I think might be the problem.

Rectifier, no, I was uncomfortable cutting the wire. Rather have the dealer do it, mess it up and own the problem :-)

I was reading the service manual that I finally bought and the problem could also be air getting in from a poor seal. The seals on this boat were just "done" by the same mechanic that never fixed the carbs.

At this time I own the boat for short money. If this shop fixes it for a reasonable price I would still be in this boat very short. I can't do any more work of this; I was crushed between two cars in January being a good samaratin by a kid with no car insurance. My leg is pretty messed up so I only have so much energy each day. I've expended all the energy I have on to give this and I'd rather pay to have it fixed and spend my energy enjoying it. :-)
 
I hear you, a couple years back a truck (f250) fell on my buddies head. he has the same prob... and its friggen hot here on top of that, it can drain ur energy just as by itself...can happen to the best of us....well i hope they get the prob fixed for ya...so you CAN enjoy it..... hope your summer is long and fun!!!
 
I have been watching this thread with great interest, as I was experiencing the same surging issue in my '97 Speedster. The port engine was having the same symptoms.

Maybe I was just lucky, but all we had to do to fix the problem was replace the spark plugs and clean the fuel filters. Runs like a champ now!

Good luck rshaker2
 
Thanks, hope this works out soon.

So, the mechanic spent a week doing nothing then his dad passed away. I have it back and I think fuel filter might be a problem too. I took it out and it's twisted, weird or not?

I hope that's it else I have to reseal the motor and find a fuel pump. Anyone have a fuel pump?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
shake....fire boat up on trailer, with water going thru both motors, hold rpms to 5500, at that time, put voltmeter on battery, and see what its reading, better yet, test battery with 1 motor atta time. If its in the 12's or 15's, then replace the rectifier, no cutting of anything, just unplugging and installing new one or both.

If you have "good" throttle response, then your pop-off is fine. Your boat has 2-720's, so that means, you got 1 carb per motor. Removethe airbox assy, and carb, on each, is right there. Have buddy move throttle arms, to verify that the "squirters" are clear, other than that, remove carb/s, and carefully pull apart. No need for rebuild kit, unless you see torn/detoriated gaskets/diaphrams, or a bad needle.
 
First thing I'm doing is getting a new filter. I looked at the port side one again and it's really torqued badly.

Can I test it connected to a hose at 4000? I can't really get it past that anyway. We tested the squirters and rebuilt the port carb. I'm hoping the filter is the key since I've done so much other stuff.

Thanks ALL!! Will post if the filter resolves the issue.
 
This boat was not taken care of properly.

When I went to replace the filters ($25 a piece?!?!) there were black bits in the housings. I pulled the filler tube out of the tank and saw lots of black crap in the tank, a full tank! So I pumped the entire tank, cleaned the filter on the bottom of the tube but wished I had bought a replacement and put it all back together. Tomorrow my hope is to test the rectifier and pray, pray a lot!

Also, What do you think about a bad MPEM? As I was reading the service manual it mentions that top rpm might be an MPEM, also, a previous owner installed a float switch for the bilge pump but if the MPEM is working right shouldn't it turn on the bilge pump automatically?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I finally fixed fixing most of the safety issues with the trailer and replaced the rectifier. The old one looked burned out. I hope to test it this week. It should be easier since I can test in on the trailer now.

I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks for all the help.
 
the rectifier ...how did it "look" bad???????...if you unplug your red wire and the boat runs "fine" than the recti got's to go, if not it's not the problem.....alot of times they will go cause the boat to "bog" or "surge" but you cant tell if it is good or bad from looking at it.....you were worried at some point about "clipping" the wire...dont be; crack open your ebox, there will be 3 yellow wires and 1 red, pull the red female and male connector appart (clipping) that will tell the truth...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow very interesting thread, read it slowly so I can learn..

Please let us know.. it sounds horrid, how much did you spend already trying to fix the problem?

I noticed something in my life, its usually the smallest tiniest thing you wouldnt ever expect, like when my boat wasnt starting correctly, seadooya came over, and all it was that the wires attaching to the on/off key were not touching correctly!

Can you believe all he had to do is tight the wires and it never had that problem again? unbelieveable!

So it sucks having to pay to replace all the other stuff thinking thats what it was, and finding out it was like a $8 dollar problem!

But at least you have like a new boat!
 
I in closer and closer to success.

The rectifier was definately bad. It was all blacked out on one side, popped the new one in and gave it a run on the newly repaired trailer and both motors went to 7k rpm :-)

But then the port one died, it started again and when I started going up on the throttle I got to about 4k, it held, then surged to full throttle, ran for a while then I backed off a little and it died again. The starboard motor was running great.

I'm thinking carb, pop off pressure? What do you think? I'm so close I can taste it, also the throttle cables are grossly out of adjustment. Any direction on how to fix that and could that be the problem?

Thanks all.
 
I'm hoping this thread helps others. I'm going to put a summary post when it's complete with costs, time, savings and problems reapired.

cheappc said:
Wow very interesting thread, read it slowly so I can learn..

Please let us know.. it sounds horrid, how much did you spend already trying to fix the problem?

I noticed something in my life, its usually the smallest tiniest thing you wouldnt ever expect, like when my boat wasnt starting correctly, seadooya came over, and all it was that the wires attaching to the on/off key were not touching correctly!

Can you believe all he had to do is tight the wires and it never had that problem again? unbelieveable!

So it sucks having to pay to replace all the other stuff thinking thats what it was, and finding out it was like a $8 dollar problem!

But at least you have like a new boat!
Click to expand...
 
Put it in the water yesterday and we're back to the same problem. The starboard motor appears fine, the port bounced between 4-6k rpms then after about 10 mins it settles it at 5K rpms and holds there.

I'm thinking when they guy rebuilt the carb he just did the rubber parts and this might have a pop off problem.

Do you agree, carb? What happens if I take it out Sunday anyway, could I do more damage running the motor this way.


Seadooya, the carbs are squirting, the rubbers are new, throttle response seems fine but the cables are definately adjusted wrong. Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks all
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
97 Challenger Starting Issue and Mag Question
Replies
1
Views
223
rusty nail
rusty nail
C
1998 seadoo challenger no spark
Replies
2
Views
463
rusty nail
rusty nail
jeraldbrown94
96 sportster cavitation
Replies
2
Views
140
SDC_MI
SDC_MI
P
97 Gtx shuts off at 4500rpm
Replies
3
Views
200
PhatUnicorns22
P
AquaEye
97 GTX. Normal engine noise?
2
Replies
25
Views
784
AquaEye
AquaEye
Back
Top