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Oil ?

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robrat20

robrat20

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I have a 2001 sea doo gtx rfi, I bought a rebuilt motor with a no fault warranty. Just wanting to know whats a good 2 stroke oil to run that wont break the bank. The shop said whatever oil I use I should mix no more than 1 ounce per gallon of fuel in the fuel tank even though it's oil injected he said the oil injection barely gives the engine enough oil and that's why I should mix with fuel as well. He said don't use the quicksilver brand at all. Any thoughts on that
 
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I also have an 01 GTX RFI. I will let the experts comment on break-in, but I use Mercury Marine Quicksilver full synthetic. The Walmart by the lake stocks it for $38 and change. A lot of pictures show this in a black container, but that is the old packaging. It is in a silvery container. Be careful to pick up the PWC full synthetic if you go to Walmart. They seem to stick it right next to the 2 cycle outboard oil - which you DO NOT WANT.


-Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
no you shouldn't mix oil in the fuel tank in any fuel injected engine, it will raise havoc with the injectors. ask me how i know. the oil injection does it's job very well. api-tc full synthetic 2 stroke is the oil you need. i know it's costly but an engine is much more costly.
 
That is correct NEVER use premix in a RFI or DI engine. I use BRP XPS2, API-TC rated full synthetic, actually the rating is more important than the brand. BTW Quicksilver API-TC is fine, I used it for years.

Lou
 

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So the quick silver PWC full synthetic is ok to use. I run Amsoil Dominator in my other 2 strokes anyone uses that
 
you can get XPS-II, the correct oil, on eBay for $45-50 free shipping. it's the only thing I run, and if the engine ever fails, you can't blame the oil...

Meow... oil.. meow... ;)
 
Just as the ice starts to build the cats come out! Meow! Can't wait until the Spring. Meow, hiss, meow...
 
robrat20 said:
I have a 2001 sea doo gtx rfi, I bought a rebuilt motor with a no fault warranty. Just wanting to know whats a good 2 stroke oil to run that wont break the bank. The shop said whatever oil I use I should mix no more than 1 ounce per gallon of fuel in the fuel tank even though it's oil injected he said the oil injection barely gives the engine enough oil and that's why I should mix with fuel as well. He said don't use the quicksilver brand at all. Any thoughts on that
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Pre-mixing won't work in a fuel injected motor, I predict it can only cause problems. Your best results will occur by following the BRP factory break-in instructions, set it up correctly and burn the proper oil/fuel.
 
HP MarineTM Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil. Has anyone ran this and this should be safe to run and better than the xps2
 
robrat20 said:
HP MarineTM Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil. Has anyone ran this and this should be safe to run and better than the xps2
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I'm wondering if the "S" in AMSOIL stand for "Snake"? I wouldn't put the wrong stuff in my $16~$17k outboard motor.

I see a ring snagged the exhaust port and there seems to be galling on the needles of the bearing. That's not too impressive for a motor I would expect 1500 or more trouble-free hours from, will it make it?.
 

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I've been using Mystik JT-4 full synthetic oil for a couple years now. It's only around $20 a gallon and meets all the oem ratings. It's manufactured by Citgo and has tested out to be very good stuff, and is incredibly cheap.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I'm wondering if the "S" in AMSOIL stand for "Snake"? I wouldn't put the wrong stuff in my $16~$17k outboard motor.

I see a ring snagged the exhaust port and there seems to be galling on the needles of the bearing. That's not too impressive for a motor I would expect 1500 or more trouble-free hours from, will it make it?.
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You are correct, Amsoil HP is "dual rated", supposedly meets API-TC and TC-W3 specifications. I have never understood how this can be. API-TC is low ash, TC-W3 is no ash, seems to me a contradiction in terms. I am also suspect of their testing procedures. I know there are a lot of guys out there that use Amsoil and as far as I know with success, personally I won't use Amsoil. For a few dollars more I'll just stay with OEM.

Lou
 
Hicktown said:
I've been using Mystik JT-4 full synthetic oil for a couple years now. It's only around $20 a gallon and meets all the oem ratings. It's manufactured by Citgo and has tested out to be very good stuff, and is incredibly cheap.
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Were do you get Mystik JT-4 full synthetic oil?? down in Orlando the only distributor they had in the Mistik website does not sell it anymore.
 
LouDoo said:
You are correct, Amsoil HP is "dual rated", supposedly meets API-TC and TC-W3 specifications. I have never understood how this can be. API-TC is low ash, TC-W3 is no ash, seems to me a contradiction in terms. I am also suspect of their testing procedures. I know there are a lot of guys out there that use Amsoil and as far as I know with success, personally I won't use Amsoil. For a few dollars more I'll just stay with OEM.

Lou
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In my Doo's I always used amsoil. (except for the first 6 months where I used tcw-3 penzoil because I didn't read the fkn manual...)Although I WILL admit, it was largely due to convenience, fair prices shipped right to my front stoop.

In my yami, no way amsoil is going in there, but yes "technically" its dual rated, actually the PO of that ski used amsoil. (and had some clogged injectors) but if you poke around you will find 10 guys that swear by amsoil, 10 that swear by mystic, 10 that swear by yamalube, and they all have engine failure pic's to prove their point.

oil is such a weird thing, so dam many opinions, and so dam many options.

For me its simple, make a choice other than the $15 stuff at wallyworld or west marine, and keep using it, keep your lines current, and fuggadaboutit.

meow.
 
alexd51 said:
Were do you get Mystik JT-4 full synthetic oil?? down in Orlando the only distributor they had in the Mistik website does not sell it anymore.
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I get it at a midwestern chain store called Blaine's farm and fleet. They have it for about $21 a gallon. Certainly beats $45 a gallon for the OEM. But, I'm not sure if you'd be able to find it in Orlando. Maybe try giving Mystik a call.
 
Since were on the topic meow...

Visited a new marine store that just opened because they had a BRP logo in the window. So I stopped in and asked if they had xps. Turns out that they don't and brp won't sell it to them. What ?? They do have some sort of synthetic outboard oil with the brp logo on it. Weird...
I think it was for Evinrude outboards.
Something new to avoid I guess.
 
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Yes, BRP bought the JohnnyRude trademark from OMC some years ago, so those JohnnyRude outboards will have the BRP logo on them. OMC was killed by oiling issues (trying to run too lean) and a few other problems.
 
Spimothy Leary said:
For me its simple, make a choice other than the $15 stuff at wallyworld or west marine, and keep using it, keep your lines current, and fuggadaboutit.

meow.
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Actually, if you have an old carbed outboard and you're pre-mixing, the Wallyworld TCW-3 stuff has been a winner for the guys who've tried it. They usually mix it on the heavy side I think (judging by the smoke plume), and have many hundreds and probably thousands of hours on the stuff.

There really aren't many bad oils around anymore although you can use the wrong ones. One that claims to be a universal solution is like being a jack of all trades and master of none, IMHO.

When a customer comes looking for oil around here, I always point him to the stuff the OEM calls for. That way when something goes wrong and he's towed back into the marina he can't lay blame on me.
 
I dislike outboard 2 stokes... all they seem to do is smoke... as did most PWCs except sea-doo.

Running XPS-II leaves very little smoke behind my skis once warmed up.

Most yahamajamas leave a nice thick trail of smoke... but that may be down to the oil used.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
I dislike outboard 2 stokes... all they seem to do is smoke... as did most PWCs except sea-doo.

Running XPS-II leaves very little smoke behind my skis once warmed up.

Most yahamajamas leave a nice thick trail of smoke... but that may be down to the oil used.
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my doo smoked like I was cooking hot dogs under the seat :) I ran around 40:1, really only noticeable when idling through the no wake zones.

my yami smokes like i'm cooking a brisket AND some dogs, AND babyback ribs... I run 32:1 when I take my yami out I have to go out of my way to be at the back of the group so as to not piss of my buddies :)

anybody using the stock injection system will most def be smoking less...
 
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