Oil removal device via dipstick tube

[Doctor_Venkman]

I have a an oil pump to remove my used oil but I don't have anything that will fit down the dipstick tube. What do you folks recommend? I'd really rather not have to buy a new pump that includes the needed piece.

I await your sage advice.

 

[Rikky001]

My savage advice; if you don't have the proper tools leave it for somebody else.
You will need to go in the dipstick's tube to a defined depth, and follow the simple procedure to get most of the oil out. There are many youtube video's to help you or check here the How to do section

I am boring I guess but first step is proper tools Good luck.

 

[mkov608]

This pump comes with the correct hose:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000JFN9WW

But, I use this pump because it's so much faster.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZIFZVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[LakesideRec]

You will need a couple feet of some plastic tubing in something like 1/4" exterior size. Vinyl tubing might work, but tends to have thick walls leaving you a very small inside diameter. Poly tubing like the kind that might be used for an ice maker connection (but smaller) will be stiffer and have thinner walls. You will want to get the largest ID tube you can that will fit all the way down the tube.

Maybe something like this:
UDP 1/4 in. O.D. x 0.170 in. I.D. x 25 ft. Natural Polyethylene Tubing-T16007001 - The Home Depot

You can probably just jam it into the end of whatever tube your pump has or else you will have to find the right fittings. All these parts should be available at a hardware store or home depot, but you might have to experiment to find the best tubing.

Inserting to the proper depth is pretty easy as you will want to get it all the way in until it hits the bottom. On my SeaDoo, the tube is slightly curved and is slight wider at the top couple inches. If yours is like that, don't be fooled by that first tight spot. The tube needs to go in more like 12-18 inches to hit the bottom.

A manual pump will take a lot of work because sucking the oil through that small tubing will be slow going. Once you figure out exactly how much length you need, you can cut it off to the shortest feasible length.

Warm oil pumps out a lot easier than cold.

 

[Doctor_Venkman]

My savage advice; if you don't have the proper tools leave it for somebody else.
You will need to go in the dipstick's tube to a defined depth, and follow the simple procedure to get most of the oil out. There are many youtube video's to help you or check here the How to do section

I am boring I guess but first step is proper tools Good luck.[/QUOTE

That's why I'm going to that SOAK! I I want the proper tools so I can avoid traveling 60 minutes round trip and leaving my jet skis with someone else for a week or more.

 

[greenhornet2]

I bought the pump at sea doo It had a small plastic hose that fit inside the pump hole on the suction side. it takes a little while if the oil is cold but it works

 

[Rikky001]

Good that you have the tools now.

You will note that you only get a bit of oil out when sucking it out cold...
To be able to get most, almost all of it, the engine should be warmed up and you rev it 4000 rpm for 10 seconds, than shut it down at 4000 rpm. (this will move most oil from the PTO housing to the sump). Suck oil out.
Pull the suction tube out and turn the engine over for 10 seconds (depress the throttle lever and hold it while cranking so you don't start the engine), suck oil out. Repeat this process 2-3 times and you will be able to get most oil out.

This is standard Seadoo procedure which works fine. Seadoo suggest to mark the syphon tube at 475 mm and stick it in the tube to that depth. Most just ram it till the bottom but you will note that when you stick it at that depth it works fastest and get most of the oil out.

Success with the job.

 

[ski-d00]

Nowhere does BRP ever recommend to crank the engine over without oil in it. Not sure where this bad advice came from but not what the manufacturer preaches. Most engine wear for all engines is done at initial start up when there is no oil pressure throughout the system. What you are essentially doing is magnifying this wear by 1000x when you are cranking with an oil starved engine.

You shouldn't be concerned with getting every drop of oil out. Changing the oil by removing 3 quarts of the 4.8 quarts is fine as long as the oil is changed on a regular basis.

 

[Rikky001]

Nowhere is relative, for sure if you never read a manual.
Which dumb ass would turn over an engine without oil??? Read my comment properly. it is straight from the manual.
The procedure is to get most oil out, not cranking without oil...

 

[Rikky001]

Section 02 Engine, Subsection 10 Lubrication system, pages 112-114 Seadoo shop manual 2011
Internet is full of opinions... follow manufacturer guidelines and recommendations avoid expensive repairs

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, follow the manual but it will not get most of the oil out. You should get 3 to 3.5 quarts and not 4.8 quarts out which is the system capacity.

 

[Rikky001]

Right, please shoot how to get most oil out, always interested to learn better ways.
My understanding is that what BRP write in the manual is the accepted and proven method; all official dealers and people who take doing maintenance serious follow the same procedure.

Anyway, my advice here is free and up to the people what they do with it. Topic closed for me.

 

[boatrboy]

Funny this topic just came up. I was at the boat show in New York and spoke to a guy who races for team Sea Doo at the Sea Doo booth. I asked this exact question (since I just acquired a 2005 gtx E-Tec) and he suggested I just drain the oil as long as I change it regularly. I copied whats in the manual below so being an engineer myself, I think I will follow the manual procedure.

However I am wondering what the guys here who work at dealers really do.

Mark
.

 

[skiasylum]

That’s how I do it, the service manual for my ski and instructions included with Sea-Doo oil change kit explain it the same way.

 

[Chester]

Funny this topic just came up. I was at the boat show in New York and spoke to a guy who races for team Sea Doo at the Sea Doo booth. I asked this exact question (since I just acquired a 2005 gtx E-Tec) and he suggested I just drain the oil as long as I change it regularly. I copied whats in the manual below so being an engineer myself, I think I will follow the manual procedure.

However I am wondering what the guys here who work at dealers really do.

Mark
.
View attachment 39105

Yes, this is the proper way. You will get 4 quarts out of the engine and that's why the kit comes with a 1-gallon jug of oil.

Chester

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Wonder why the dip stick tube doesn't terminate at the bottom of the sump so it can act like a straw to evacuate the oil, like most marine engines.

 

[boatrboy]

Yes, this is the proper way. You will get 4 quarts out of the engine and that's why the kit comes with a 1-gallon jug of oil.

Chester

Thanks - I imagine that turning it over without starting is really not doing any harm for 10 seconds pumping out that last bit of oil. I believe that the Sea Doo engineers know what they are talking about.
Cant wait until it warms up to perform the correct maintenance on my new ski!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thanks - I imagine that turning it over without starting is really not doing any harm for 10 seconds pumping out that last bit of oil. I believe that the Sea Doo engineers know what they are talking about.
Cant wait until it warms up to perform the correct maintenance on my new ski!

If you were to remove the spark plugs while cranking (maybe an opportunity for fogging too?), the pressure on rod bearings will be reduced and there will be no way for the engine to start (besides using the WOT throttle flooded engine fuel shutoff feature).

If replacing plugs, I prefer to burn the fogging oil out beforehand, this way those fresh new $$ plugs aren't contaminated.

 

[skiasylum]

Some additional information per service manual:

Capacity: 3L (3.2 qt) oil change with filter, 4.5L (4.8qt) total

When we are changing oil we are never removing all of the oil from the engine. We are mixing the new oil with old oil that we can’t evacuate. It is then important to refill the oil to the proper capacity after the oil change. Between the full and add marks on the oil dipstick with a warm and level engine.
If you use the Sea-Doo suction pump (it’s graduated) and your oil level was at the proper level before the oil change you can add the same amount of oil as you took out and be fairly safe that your oil is at the proper capacity without restarting the motor after you have completed the storage procedures. Check it again in the spring with a warm and level engine.

 

[boatrboy]

Thanks for all the feedback!

 

[boatrboy]

I finally got time to do the oil change today. I basically followed the manual procedure.

FWIW;

I warmed it up only for a few minutes on the hose.
I marked the siphon hose and inserted it to the line and siphoned oil out.
I cranked it over with throttle wide open for ten seconds.
I tried to siphon more out but nothing more came out until I pushed the hose in a little further.
Changed filter-siphoned the well once the filter was out.
Measured oil that was removed in a measuring cup. it measured 3 qts.
Since the dipstick appeared to be on the overfill side - I refilled with slightly under 3 qts. And checked level. Started and adjusted level to middle of bump on dipstick. It ended up taking the 3 qts to fill to proper level.

Side note - I was fooled looking at the dipstick thinking the oil was black and dirty and wanted to change this asap. It turns out the dipstick is black. If I had wiped the oil in my fingers I would have seen it was quite clean. Oh well at least I am starting with clean oil...

 

[skiasylum]

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