Odd spacers on Pump Mount ('97 Challenger)

[LSaupe]

Just pulled my pump (having some cavitation issues).

When I pulled the body though, I see two oversize washers spacing out the top of the pump body from the tansom. Anyone seen this before? Do they belong there? I have concerns over making a seal, not to mention alignment issues. You can also see my drive shaft. The engine end did not have a rubber bumper installed (as is done on the pump end). Should one be there? This boat has one spacer ring between the pump and boat body. The manual indicates that sometimes there is two. Would this boat have two or one, or is it a case by case basis?

I will be replacing my wear ring an impeller. Any suggestions for an impeller. Need a bit more lower end for pulling tubes and occasionally 4 people.

Heard mention of a Skat Trak Swirl. Any advice here (pitch etc)?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Wearing ring...?

Just pulled my pump (having some cavitation issues).

When I pulled the body though, I see two oversize washers spacing out the top of the pump body from the tansom. Anyone seen this before? Do they belong there? I have concerns over making a seal, not to mention alignment issues. You can also see my drive shaft. The engine end did not have a rubber bumper installed (as is done on the pump end). Should one be there? This boat has one spacer ring between the pump and boat body. The manual indicates that sometimes there is two. Would this boat have two or one, or is it a case by case basis?

I will be replacing my wear ring an impeller. Any suggestions for an impeller. Need a bit more lower end for pulling tubes and occasionally 4 people.

Heard mention of a Skat Trak Swirl. Any advice here (pitch etc)?

Did you measure the ring? From the pix, it doesn't seem that it's out of spec. Or, maybe it's just the way the pix is taken. Your impeller is beat up pretty good, just replace with a remanu. I don't see a reason to spend a couple hundred bucks for an extra mile per hour or so. I bought 2 last year and wasn't impressed.

Your washers? You need to leave them on. A lot of time, when there is a problem or when the engine is installed, they don't get the alignment just right. So, to compensate, you'll see a mechanic put a washer or two behind the pump. This should not affect the seal as long as you have a good seal, use the silicone sealant.

It's been a while since I seen you in the forum. It's spring time now so I guess I'll see a lot of the old clan......:cheers:

 

[LSaupe]

Thanks for the reply. Yep, its spring and time to get things back in shape.

Actually the ring is beat up real bad (chunks missing actually). Must havce injested something at one time it didn't like.

As far as the rubber on the drive shaft ends. The shop manual indicated there should be two. Should I add one to the engine end?

 

[shakedown]

yes, you need one on each end.

 

[LSaupe]

I havent pulled the pump apart yet, but I notice I have about 3/16" of for aft play (along the shaft direction, not side to side).

Is this common, if so are there limits? The impeller spins smooth and appears solid other that the fore-aft movement.

Are bearing hard to replace on these pumps? Is a press required?

Many thanks,

Larry S.

 

[Dr Honda]

That sounds like a lot of clearance... but, the spec is wide open.

When the pump is spinning, the impeller loads the shaft forward, and pulls the shaft up on the thrust bearing. The main thing is... if you push the impeller into the pump, and it doesn't contact anything, or binds up... you are OK.

I'm not saying the bearings are good... but the axial play can be high.

 

[LSaupe]

How difficult is it to change pump bearings? Can these be knocked out with a wooden dowel and mallet or will a press be required? If so, how much force typically, would an Arbor press suffice or would I need access to an hydrualic?

Hope you all had a great weekend,

Larry S.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Bearings..?

The bearings are not pressed in super tight. They are only pressed in tight enough to hold them. I tap my bearings out, then press them in. To tap out these bearings, you really need to know what your doing. I have a spare shaft that I've cut down to hold my bearings even in the pump while removing. IF you just take a socket or something and tap on them, you'll likely cause the cage of the bearing to twist sideways. This wil gouge your pump casing.

Once you have the bearings and seal out, you only need a small press to push them in. But, there is also a clearance that must be adhered to. I generally set both mine at 2mm.

The most important is your air test. Once you've replaced the bearings, you need to do the air test. 10 psi for 10 minutes.....:cheers:

 

[Dennis]

driveshaft bumper plug

I would remove the grease boot on the engine PTO and make sure the rubber plug for the end of the driveshaft isn't up in the center splines of the PTO. You don't want 2 of these plugs in either end of the shaft or pump thrust washer damage may occur.

DAWG

 

[Chester]

Get a 14.5/22.5 Swirl impeller. You may experience a small drop in top speed but, for what you need it for, you will have much better hook up under load (when towing). Yes, that wear ring is bad, replace it.

Chester