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Noob with used '03 XP DI with issues (Reposted from Meet and Greet)

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dusty92900

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OK, here's the deal:
Bought an '03 XP DI online and picked it up in person and it was made known that something electrical was wrong with it. Put in a fuse and got it running, but with very annoying "Maintence" and "12 V Low" messages along with a blinking red light and beeping at slow speeds. After reading several threads on here, I ran a test on it and ended up buying a new rectifier. Pretty sure that problem is solved now but haven't been able to check it out on the lake.
The one time I was able to take it out, I also noticed that it didnt seem to have the power that I thought it should as it would only hit about 4800 RPM and about 33 MPH. Did some checking on here and it was VERY obvious that the wrong oil was in it (the blue stuff)!!
Looked into it deeper lastnight and removed the spark plugs to do a compression check and I can only get 80 psi on both cylinders. Also noticed that the front spark plug had water droplets on it and a small "puddle" on top of the piston that appeared to be water. I had just drained and hosed out the hull but I can't think of any way for that small rinse to get into the cylinder like that, can anyone else?? I don't think i ever sprayed the engine directly and it was just from a water hose at about half throttle with a nozzle. My only thought is a blown head gasket unless anyone else has another theory. Thoughts, concerns, and questions are MORE than welcome!!

Will pull the head tonight if I have time to get a better look at the condition of the cylinders and such to asses what's going on, but I wonder if there is something that I should check before I bust the bolts loose. Any ideas??

Another note: I did clean the RAVE valves after reading on here about the cheaper oil issues. Were these valves in the expected condition of running on the wrong oil or MUCH worse or what? IMG_3611.jpg
 
well... either your compression tester is off, your battery is low, you aren't doing the correct DI procedure for the test... or your engine is shot...

someone should post up the compression test for the DI, which involves some throttle movement. I'm more familiar w/the carb setup.

if you don't have compression, you don't have an engine... so let's hope that's not it.

1. valid compression test.
2. we will help u take it from there.
 
Well, I got some much better results last night while checking the compression. I saw a small, seemingly insignificant comment about disconnecting the injectors so I tried that. After both sets of fuel injectors and air injectors were disconnected, I got 130 psi on both cylinders so I'm pretty sure it's ok.

My new-to-me oil tank should be in today so I'm hoping to get to test it this weekend during a family camping trip with the XPS oil and new filter. Hopefully it was the wrong oil holding back my rpms and replacing the recitifier got rid of the "12 v low" message and beeping too.

I'm assuming any codes that have been activated in the past have to be cleared, so is there a way to clear codes without a computer?? Or will they simply go away once the computer recognizes that it is no longer an issue?
 
Well I took it to the lake this weekend and still having the same issues: "12 V low" / not charging the battery and maximum engine speed of 4800 RPM / 35 mph. I'm leaning toward MPEM just from lack of other options. Any other ideas?? Where can I get a hold of a programmer to read the codes??
 
12v low on a DI model, assuming the rectifier and battery are good, is usually an indication that the voltage regulator has failed... you can buy heavy duty ones.

it's a common failure.

limited to 35 MPH may be a type of limp mode.
 
Well I figured out my 12V low issue! Just after I bought the ski a couple weeks ago I replaced a fuse and installed the 30A starter fuse and got it running. Then replaced the rectifier and nothing changed so I was having the same problem. Then I got my head out of my rectum and checked the fuses again and of course the same one was blown again (from the previous rectifier rubbing thru the wires). Replaced it whaalaa!! No more "12 V low" codes.

Now the throttle issue is still there so I took it to the dealership for them to read the codes on it and it is showing P1102 & P1103 are the only active ones. Is there a way to test the TPS to identify if they are defective or have been electrically fried? Any suggestions on how to move forward with diagnosing the problem??
 
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