No guages on 99'xpl
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Fuses?
Have you check your fuses in the electrical box?
Have you check your fuses in the electrical box?
Fuses OK
I checked the fuses last night. All appear to be ok, I didn't test with a meter but visually they look fine. When I got the ski the guy I got it from said he had replaced "some $800 module" From what I can gather that would be the MPEM. Is it possible he put one in from another model that did not have guages? I did your advanced diag. from another post about 5 times and 4 of the 5 times it started but once I got a single beep?? Thanks again.
I checked the fuses last night. All appear to be ok, I didn't test with a meter but visually they look fine. When I got the ski the guy I got it from said he had replaced "some $800 module" From what I can gather that would be the MPEM. Is it possible he put one in from another model that did not have guages? I did your advanced diag. from another post about 5 times and 4 of the 5 times it started but once I got a single beep?? Thanks again.
More info
I was able to get a hold of the guy I got it from and this is what he said.
"Peak Power Sports looked at it and told me that it is a power to the gauges issue the gauges work but one of the wires needs to be fixed I think it is the purple wire going to the gauges"
I haven't had a chance to check it yet so not sure. Didn't know if this would help.
Thanks
I was able to get a hold of the guy I got it from and this is what he said.
"Peak Power Sports looked at it and told me that it is a power to the gauges issue the gauges work but one of the wires needs to be fixed I think it is the purple wire going to the gauges"
I haven't had a chance to check it yet so not sure. Didn't know if this would help.
Thanks
Probably so!
It probably is just that. A lead wire that powers up your system. The MPEM (multi purpose electronic module) is the brain, but if your motor is running, then it meets all the requirements for the mpem to function. There is a built in power relay that if you leave your lanyard attached for more than about 30 seconds, the mpem will power down the electronics. But I think that is unlikely because you said you did the advanced diagnostics. If you tested and 4 out of 5 times it tested good, then I'd say it is o.k..
Chase down your wire that the previous owner told you about.
I'm at work at the moment and can't look at the wiring at the moment. But I think you have your answer. Just chase that lead wire down.
It probably is just that. A lead wire that powers up your system. The MPEM (multi purpose electronic module) is the brain, but if your motor is running, then it meets all the requirements for the mpem to function. There is a built in power relay that if you leave your lanyard attached for more than about 30 seconds, the mpem will power down the electronics. But I think that is unlikely because you said you did the advanced diagnostics. If you tested and 4 out of 5 times it tested good, then I'd say it is o.k..
Chase down your wire that the previous owner told you about.
I'm at work at the moment and can't look at the wiring at the moment. But I think you have your answer. Just chase that lead wire down.
Wiring Diagraphm
We have them here, available to premium members. I've tried to access my manual and for some reason, my Adobe isn't reading the files correctly. The only idea I can think of now that may help you, is that if you were told it was the purple wire, then there should only be one purple wire going to your gages. See where that wire leads and get a multi meter tester and see what the reading on it is at the gages, then at the point of origin. You may find that you have a line break.
I'll keep trying to view the wiring diagraphm. Until then, you may decide to become a member for a month or longer, depending on what your needs will be in the future. Or give me a little time and I'll see what I can dig up!.......
I was finally able to pull up some electrical prints on your doo. Do you have VTS? If so, then the prints are probably the same. They are for the XP....so I don't think there is much difference between the Limited and the regular XP.
It does seem like the purple wire that powers up the gages originates at the MPEM. I'm not really good at the electronics, but I'd say open your electrical box and look for connector #2 and see if there is a purple wire there and if there is, see if there is something broke or loose along the way. I'd probably try a continuity check across the paths. Remember, before doing any continuity checks around the mpem, disconnect your battery wire.
We have them here, available to premium members. I've tried to access my manual and for some reason, my Adobe isn't reading the files correctly. The only idea I can think of now that may help you, is that if you were told it was the purple wire, then there should only be one purple wire going to your gages. See where that wire leads and get a multi meter tester and see what the reading on it is at the gages, then at the point of origin. You may find that you have a line break.
I'll keep trying to view the wiring diagraphm. Until then, you may decide to become a member for a month or longer, depending on what your needs will be in the future. Or give me a little time and I'll see what I can dig up!.......
I was finally able to pull up some electrical prints on your doo. Do you have VTS? If so, then the prints are probably the same. They are for the XP....so I don't think there is much difference between the Limited and the regular XP.
It does seem like the purple wire that powers up the gages originates at the MPEM. I'm not really good at the electronics, but I'd say open your electrical box and look for connector #2 and see if there is a purple wire there and if there is, see if there is something broke or loose along the way. I'd probably try a continuity check across the paths. Remember, before doing any continuity checks around the mpem, disconnect your battery wire.
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To chime in here, The purple wire is the power + wire to your guages. Check continunity with a multi meter, and the fuse and holder. also make sure the switch is working( for the light in the guage to work) and last but not least make sure the (black -) has continunity too.
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continuity?
Do you have a multi meter and know how to do a continuity check? Did you check all the fuses in the mpem?
Do you have a multi meter and know how to do a continuity check? Did you check all the fuses in the mpem?
fuses
I visually checked them, I did not check them for an open. I work at a dealership so I have access to most tools. Is it possible that just that particular function of the mpem is not functioning? Like a pcm in a car it will still run but something doesn't work. I am bidding on one on ebay now just as a spare if that isn't the problem. I havent checked resistances yet with the meter because I don't know where to check them at and what wires are what. I'm ready for a beer. Thanks.
I visually checked them, I did not check them for an open. I work at a dealership so I have access to most tools. Is it possible that just that particular function of the mpem is not functioning? Like a pcm in a car it will still run but something doesn't work. I am bidding on one on ebay now just as a spare if that isn't the problem. I havent checked resistances yet with the meter because I don't know where to check them at and what wires are what. I'm ready for a beer. Thanks.
results
I pulled the MPEM and harness completely out:boxing_smiley:
Fuse holder showed 1.something ohm's
Purple wires ranged from .5-1.0 ohm's black also
Can't see any breaks or cuts.
I noticed once I had the MPEM out there was a 30A instead of a 15A in the batt. slot, Don't know if it was blowing with the 15A never tried as it is apart right now.
Thanks again.
I pulled the MPEM and harness completely out:boxing_smiley:
Fuse holder showed 1.something ohm's
Purple wires ranged from .5-1.0 ohm's black also
Can't see any breaks or cuts.
I noticed once I had the MPEM out there was a 30A instead of a 15A in the batt. slot, Don't know if it was blowing with the 15A never tried as it is apart right now.
Thanks again.
30Amp!
If someone slipped a 30 amp fuse in the 15 amp slot, then chances are that whatever that fues went to, which from your post is the mpem, then it's probably blown. Question is why was a 30 amp fuse in that spot? If they kept blowing he 15, then that means there is probably a short somewhere. It's kinda hard trouble shooting electricals from here, but I don't think there is any in between on an mpem. Either it works, or it doesn't.
If someone slipped a 30 amp fuse in the 15 amp slot, then chances are that whatever that fues went to, which from your post is the mpem, then it's probably blown. Question is why was a 30 amp fuse in that spot? If they kept blowing he 15, then that means there is probably a short somewhere. It's kinda hard trouble shooting electricals from here, but I don't think there is any in between on an mpem. Either it works, or it doesn't.
Forward Harness
So I removed the entire harness in the front of the hull, from mpem to guages. Ohm tested all the wires and they are ALL ok. Could the rear harness cause a problem, I wouldn't think so. I applied power to the vts guage and it spiked so I am pretty sure the guages themselves work.:ack:
So I removed the entire harness in the front of the hull, from mpem to guages. Ohm tested all the wires and they are ALL ok. Could the rear harness cause a problem, I wouldn't think so. I applied power to the vts guage and it spiked so I am pretty sure the guages themselves work.:ack:
Continuity?
If you have the harness out, I think a continuity test would give you better results than ohm testing. If I remember right, ohms is the resistivity in the wire, continuity will tell you if there is a seperation behind the rubber insulation.
Not really to familar with your specific ski, I ride the seadoo boats. But the continuity test is generic. I use it quite often when I'm tracing my wiring system.
If you have the harness out, I think a continuity test would give you better results than ohm testing. If I remember right, ohms is the resistivity in the wire, continuity will tell you if there is a seperation behind the rubber insulation.
Not really to familar with your specific ski, I ride the seadoo boats. But the continuity test is generic. I use it quite often when I'm tracing my wiring system.
More Testing
So I talked with one of my techs and he told me that Testing OHM's can trick me. There could be 1 strand out of a 15 strand wire that is still connected showing me that I have continuity but I need to do a voltage drop because it may not be passing enough voltage to activate the guages. I need to find out exactly which wires to test I already rebuilt the harnes and installed it again, not like it's a big deal to remove. If I do the premium membership is there a wiring diagram available to me because I cannot find one anywhere. Thanks again I really do appreciate the help.
So I talked with one of my techs and he told me that Testing OHM's can trick me. There could be 1 strand out of a 15 strand wire that is still connected showing me that I have continuity but I need to do a voltage drop because it may not be passing enough voltage to activate the guages. I need to find out exactly which wires to test I already rebuilt the harnes and installed it again, not like it's a big deal to remove. If I do the premium membership is there a wiring diagram available to me because I cannot find one anywhere. Thanks again I really do appreciate the help.
Yes, there is
There is wiring diagrams in all the shop manuals. I have been using a printed version of the 1997 model XP in trying to help you. I'm just not very much into the electrical side of these things. My experience is really on the mechanical side. I wish I could be of better help to you.
If your doing this work without the layout in a manual, you got to be pretty good with electricals. If so, then maybe the manuals layout of how these highways work may be of good use for you to do further trouble shooting with.
Good luck and I'll help you to the extent that I can. Like I said though, in the electrical side, that isn't much.
There is wiring diagrams in all the shop manuals. I have been using a printed version of the 1997 model XP in trying to help you. I'm just not very much into the electrical side of these things. My experience is really on the mechanical side. I wish I could be of better help to you.
If your doing this work without the layout in a manual, you got to be pretty good with electricals. If so, then maybe the manuals layout of how these highways work may be of good use for you to do further trouble shooting with.
Good luck and I'll help you to the extent that I can. Like I said though, in the electrical side, that isn't much.
Great!
Glad you were able to conjure up those diagrams. I'm sitting here looking at something that looks really french to me, so I don't think I could have helped a whole lot.
Please let me know how it goes!.......
Glad you were able to conjure up those diagrams. I'm sitting here looking at something that looks really french to me, so I don't think I could have helped a whole lot.
Please let me know how it goes!.......
Getting There
So now that I have the diagram I was able to see how the power distribution was set up and where to check for power. Come to find out that someone has had the forward harness out at one point and had the connectors all back asswards. I re-routed all of the connectors and now I have
*VTS guage
*RPM guage
*Can't tell if speedo works but I assume it does
*Oil level light works
*Fuel guage still does not work, I can apply power to the wire and the guage goes to full but I have 3/4 tanks and the needle is all the way empty. Workshop manual says to check the sender operation with a potentiometer but I don't have one. Maybe the fuel sender is bad all the wiring appears to be ok. Thanks to everyone who helped and I will post again when IO figure out the fuel guage operation--Anyone seen this on the fuel guage? Common problem?
Thanks, Josh :hurray:
So now that I have the diagram I was able to see how the power distribution was set up and where to check for power. Come to find out that someone has had the forward harness out at one point and had the connectors all back asswards. I re-routed all of the connectors and now I have
*VTS guage
*RPM guage
*Can't tell if speedo works but I assume it does
*Oil level light works
*Fuel guage still does not work, I can apply power to the wire and the guage goes to full but I have 3/4 tanks and the needle is all the way empty. Workshop manual says to check the sender operation with a potentiometer but I don't have one. Maybe the fuel sender is bad all the wiring appears to be ok. Thanks to everyone who helped and I will post again when IO figure out the fuel guage operation--Anyone seen this on the fuel guage? Common problem?
Thanks, Josh :hurray:
Fuel Sender
I measured the resistance coming from the fuel sender and had around 7-8 OHM's. According to their chart that is about right, I have a little over 3/4 tank of fuel. I will check my wires from thesender to the mpem and to the guage again, as far as I can tell the guage is working.:rant:
I measured the resistance coming from the fuel sender and had around 7-8 OHM's. According to their chart that is about right, I have a little over 3/4 tank of fuel. I will check my wires from thesender to the mpem and to the guage again, as far as I can tell the guage is working.:rant:
I have the same problem with my fuel guage. I have a 1997 787 challenger. I have the correct resistiance at the fuel tank sender and checked continunity to the guage ...The guage reads empty...I checked all over with local repair shops and this is a common problem. They go bad and no real test to check if it is really good or bad. The fuel guage for my boat is retail...$140.00. I just keep an eyeball on the fuel tank and remember about the reserve being 10% of tank capacity..till I find one cheaper.
Karl
Karl
Fuel Guage
Yeah I checked on riva and my fuel guage is $180.
. I don't want to replace it if that isn't the problem though. The shop manual says it works off of resistance pink/black and pink from sender, resistance there is good, then those 2 wires go into the mpem on plug 2(i think) The wire from the mpem to the guage is a single pink wire out of plug 1(i think) so the mpem must convert it into a reference voltage somehow since it is only 1 wire. I get nothing from that wire. The weird part is when I unplug the guage and test the pink wire coming out of the guage my testlight lights dim???? Why would there be power coming out of the guage???? The way I see it the purple/black wires provide the guage with power and the other connector pink/blue I think are reference for the oil/fuel levels. I wonder if the guage is shorted out internally, but that still doesn't explain why I don't get anything from pink coming out of mpem?? Maybe I am making things too difficult. Any Idea's?
Yeah I checked on riva and my fuel guage is $180.
. I don't want to replace it if that isn't the problem though. The shop manual says it works off of resistance pink/black and pink from sender, resistance there is good, then those 2 wires go into the mpem on plug 2(i think) The wire from the mpem to the guage is a single pink wire out of plug 1(i think) so the mpem must convert it into a reference voltage somehow since it is only 1 wire. I get nothing from that wire. The weird part is when I unplug the guage and test the pink wire coming out of the guage my testlight lights dim???? Why would there be power coming out of the guage???? The way I see it the purple/black wires provide the guage with power and the other connector pink/blue I think are reference for the oil/fuel levels. I wonder if the guage is shorted out internally, but that still doesn't explain why I don't get anything from pink coming out of mpem?? Maybe I am making things too difficult. Any Idea's?
Rule of thumb... I wouldn't use a test light because if component you are trying to test dosen't use the ground, than you will fry the component! go an purchase a cheap Multi-Meter, even walmarts has them...and read the paperwork to use it. This way you don't chance grounding or applying 12 volt power to the wrong component, and having to spend more money. The multi meter is very forgiving. The purple wire does send power to the guage. The pink and pink/ blk wire loop resistance from the sending unit. If you send 12 volts to either of these 2 wire you will damage the sender.... On my 1997 Challenger the oil sender unit uses the blue and blue/blk wires to the guage. You really should think about subscribing as a premium member and check out the manual for the wire diagram.
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