No fuel getting to carbs on '96 GTI??

[30th t/a]

For some reason, fuel is NOT making it to the carburetors on my 96 GTI.
I pulled the fuel supply line off, tried starting it and no fuel comes out of the line. So I removed each line coming off the top of the fuel sending unit baffle and no fuel comes out.

I am new to Jet ski's but I would think when I try to start the jet ski, fuel should be coming out of one of the nipples on the fuel sending unit and going to the carburetors???

All OEM grey fuel lines have been replaced with new fuel line
Fuel sending unit is a freshly rebuilt unit. The Gas gauge works, but could unit not be supplying fuel to the carbs???
Fuel selector valve have been cleaned inside & out.
The fuel sending unit connector is plugged in.

anyone have any ideas?

 

[LouDoo]

On your ski the fuel pump is actually located in the mag. side carburetor. So you may need to rebuild the carbs. There are a few things that you could check, check the fuel tank vent hose also the rubber "O" ring in the fuel filter/water separator. You also might want to check the fuel lines and make sure you haven't reversed the return line with the supply line, it's easy to do. Also check the pulse line, it runs from the mag. carb. to the block, this is what works the fuel pump.

BTW the connector at the fuel baffle only works the fuel gauge, has nothing to do with fuel delivery, so you can eliminate that.

Lou

Moving this to the 2-stroke PWC forum.

 

[30th t/a]

The strange thing is, 3 weeks ago, I rebuilt the carbs, I replaced only the main fuel lines going to the carbs and replaced the fuel sending unit baffle with a used rebuilt unit.
I took the ski out, and it started up great everytime and ran fine up to 43mph then would die out when I went WOT.
People said I needed to replaced the grey oem lines coming off of the fuel selector valve. So I replaced them & installed a new wear ring.

I took the ski out to the lake and when I would try to start it, it would only turn over a 1/4 turn. I figured this was caused by something I did when I installed the new wear ring. People told me to loosing up on the nuts that hold the jet pump in place just a little. So I did that and now it turns over fine (which is great) but now It wont start at all.

 

[Coastiejoe]

The fuel selector itself needs to be cleaned when you replace the lines. Green Goo gets tuck in there at the connections.

 

[30th t/a]

So you may need to rebuild the carbs.

I did rebuild the carbs. The jet ski started & ran fine up to 43mph after I rebuilt the carbs. However, it would die when I went WOT. So I cleaned the fuel selector valve, installed new fuel lines that go to the fuel selector valve and I could also tell the wear ring needed replaced, so I changed it out. After I replaced these items, thats when the headaches began. The engine would only turn over 1/4 turn when I tried to start it. I loosened the that hold the jet pump to the hull, just a small amount. Now it turns over perfect, but still will not start.

Its getting spark. I even dribble some gas in the carbs...still nothing

There are a few things that you could check, check the fuel tank vent hose also the rubber "O" ring in the fuel filter/water separator. You also might want to check the fuel lines and make sure you haven't reversed the return line with the supply line, it's easy to do.

I double checked that I had the lines on correctly but I will recheck again.

Also check the pulse line, it runs from the mag. carb. to the block, this is what works the fuel pump.

Hmm, I will check this too but I havent touch it since the last time I had it out and it started & ran fine (up to 43mph)

Coastiejoe

The fuel selector itself needs to be cleaned when you replace the lines. Green Goo gets tuck in there at the connections.

I clean the fuel selector valve when I installed new fuel lines. Still wont start.

I'm just stumped because this jet ski started & ran before I replaced the wear ring and the fuel lines that go to the fuel selector valve.
It was a simple job. Would the wear ring have anything to do with it not starting??

 

[kicker]

The wear ring will not keep it from starting unless it is restricting the motor from turning over, I think you fixed that already.

Check your pulse line for a kink or a sharp bend, they can be tricky to put on without kinking and sometimes it takes a week or 2 for them to kink.

That said, if you poured some premix in the carbs it still should have at least sputtered. How is your compression? Should be in the 140 to 150 psi range.

 

[30th t/a]

Problem solved

Here is what happened. When I installed the new wear ring, I had the (4) 17mm nuts that hold the jet pump to the hull too tight. This would only let the engine spin a 1/4 turn, maybe a 1/2 turn. We'll stupid me kept trying to start it (not knowing what the problem was)...and constantly trying to start must have flooded the engine.
I let the jet ski sit for a week, check the fuel lines to make sure I had them going to the correct locations, all looked good... hit the key and bam, fired up, idles great & revved great.

Now, My only 2 concerns are:
Since I had the (4) 17mm nuts so tight, that the engine would not spin over, could I have damage anything? Like that thrust bearing (even though it spins, starts & runs perfectly hooked up to the hose)?

And - Since I loosened the (4) 17mm nuts up, is there a chance now that they could be too loose?

 

[30th t/a]

Anyone got some advice for this?

Now, My only 2 concerns are:
Since I had the (4) 17mm nuts so tight, that the engine would not spin over, could I have damage anything? Like that thrust bearing (even though it spins, starts & runs perfectly hooked up to the hose)?

And - Since I loosened the (4) 17mm nuts up, is there a chance now that they could be too loose?

 

[JJinSC]

Now that the engine is cranked torque those bolts to specs according to your manual. Do it quickly with a torque wrench right after you start it and you will not even need the hose (kill the engine immediately). Should be able to do it within 10 to 15 seconds. Do not run it more than 30 seconds without a hose connected (using proper procedure). This will allow the impeller to trim the new wear ring for a perfect fit at the proper torque.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JJinSC]

Oh yeah, spray some Seadoo lube xps lubricate in the pump around the impeller and on the wear ring before doing this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk