newbie with 96 gsx

[dirt_farmer]

Howdy all, I just got a 1996 GSX in good shape. I have been searching the forums here for a few days. As of right now it won't rev over 4000-4500rpm. I have replaced all the gray fuel lines on the feed side and am in the process of cleaning the carb filters. I know the on/reserve selector selector valve is restricted on the "on" setting. I havn't cleaned the RAVE valves yet and I also have read somewhere that the rectifier could be out and cause the rev limiter to malfunction? Am I headed in the right direction? Also if someone has any links on how the rave valves work? Modern 2 strokes are kind of new to me.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

Well here she is.



Found this in the fuel pump.



-Jeff

 

[Dr Honda]

If there is a known obstruction int he fuel system... fix it before you roast your engine.

But yes... if the RAVE's are stuck shut... the RPM's wont climb as the should... and if the regulator is bad... all kinds of strange things happen.

 

[dirt_farmer]

Thanks doc, I do have the selector bypassed for now. I found a torn o-ring and bad diaphragm in the fuel pump, rebuild kit ordered. I tried to post pic last night but must have to wait for a mod to ok them. The filter on the pto carb was pretty bad but the mag carb filter was clean. I'll pull the raves today and clean them up and get some new plugs.
-Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

I got the rave valves cleaned, the pto side was carboned and hard, the mag side was greasy. New plugs in, any thing else I should be cleaning up while waiting for the carb kit?

Thanks, Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

OK I need a definitive answer, I put the RAVE guillotine back in with knife edge and word "top" towards the exhaust manifold, and the curved face toward the piston/ spark plugs. I have now found "how to's" online showing it facing both ways, and I know they will slide in both ways on my engine.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[Dr Honda]

the "TOP" should be up. (I think you put yours in upside down)

 

[dirt_farmer]

the "TOP" should be up. (I think you put yours in upside down)

That's the deal, the valves are near vertical in my machine. The only way "top" wouldn't be up is if you put the threaded end down. I'll flip them around so the "top" faces the plugs (top of the engine right).

Thanks again, Jeff

 

[bigJake]

That's the deal, the valves are near vertical in my machine. The only way "top" wouldn't be up is if you put the threaded end down. I'll flip them around so the "top" faces the plugs (top of the engine right).

Thanks again, Jeff

yes, TOP should be facing the sparkplugs

 

[dirt_farmer]

I flipped the rave valves around and got my carb kits in, no improvement in the water. She revs up just fine hooked to hose, but hits 4-5000rpm on the pond and falls on its face. Sounds very much like I'm hitting a rev limiter. I read somewhere about pulling the 15amp fuse in the front compartment to take the rectifier off line and see if that helps, I may try that later. Also my info center has the wrinkled look and I can't read anything. I know there are fixes for the gauge face, but I'm wondering if there is any mode it could be in that lowers the rev limiter?

Thanks, Jeff

 

[bigJake]

I flipped the rave valves around and got my carb kits in, no improvement in the water. She revs up just fine hooked to hose, but hits 4-5000rpm on the pond and falls on its face. Sounds very much like I'm hitting a rev limiter. I read somewhere about pulling the 15amp fuse in the front compartment to take the rectifier off line and see if that helps, I may try that later. Also my info center has the wrinkled look and I can't read anything. I know there are fixes for the gauge face, but I'm wondering if there is any mode it could be in that lowers the rev limiter?

Thanks, Jeff

5,000 rpm is about when your RAVE valves should be opening and providing an extra boost of power. How are the red caps on your RAVEs adjusted? standard setting is flush with the top of the black housing.

 

[dirt_farmer]

The red caps are set flush with the black housings, the valves are clean and move freely, the diaphragms are clean and intact. I reused the gaskets but used a light coat of sealer on them. Will it hurt anything to test run it on the hose with the caps off to make sure the valves move on there own?

I should restate my rpms, starting from an idle and gunning it, it will jump right up to 5000rpm sputter for a second and settle around 4000rpm. Starting out slow it will just climb to 4000rpms. On the hose I was just blipping the throttle and it would hit 7k, but I didn't hold it there. Can I run the rpms up on the hose with out damage?

Thanks, Jeff

 

[bigJake]

The red caps are set flush with the black housings, the valves are clean and move freely, the diaphragms are clean and intact. I reused the gaskets but used a light coat of sealer on them. Will it hurt anything to test run it on the hose with the caps off to make sure the valves move on there own?

I should restate my rpms, starting from an idle and gunning it, it will jump right up to 5000rpm sputter for a second and settle around 4000rpm. Starting out slow it will just climb to 4000rpms. On the hose I was just blipping the throttle and it would hit 7k, but I didn't hold it there. Can I run the rpms up on the hose with out damage?

Thanks, Jeff

without the caps and the springs that put the tension on the valve the valves will probably just open when you start the engine. you stated you were waiting for the carb kit to arrive, have you complete the carb rebuild or still waiting for the kit?

did you clean the fuel filter under the hood? Castrol Super Clean works great, do NOT use carb cleaner

If you did the carbs, and fuel filter and you are sure the selector valve is cleaned, try some vasecline on the o-ring in the fuel filter, otherwise it may be a problem with the rectifier. Check out this thread for testing the rectifier:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?45282-help-please!!!!!

 

[dirt_farmer]

Yep carb kits are in and carb filters are clean. Fuel lines replaced except for return after the y and vent lines. Selector is restricted in on position but have been using reserve which flows freely. Filter under the front is clean and added a large filter just before the carbs. I'll make sure the filter o-ring is sealing, and check the rectifer link. Will I hurt the pump or seals if I run the rpms up on the hose?

Thank you, Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

Tried it on the pond again today with the 15amp fuse pulled, no improvement. With the fuse back in I have 13.8v dc at idle.

Hooked it to the hose with the rave covers off and they move freely, pulse up and down at idle and move up quick with any throttle.

I also checked compression today ( I know should have been first thing) 148psi & 150psi.

The plugs are oily, I know the cable to the oil pump is hooked up and moves the actuator.

I did not check the sump in the tank and it runs the same on "reserve" that flows freely and "on" that is restricted. I'll get a new selector valve, just trying to make sure I can get it running before spending to much $$ on it.

So am I back to fuel? or any other ideas? Any mode the unreadable info center could be in to limit RPMs? Exhaust/water box restrictions?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

Blew air back through the lines, reserve flows fine and on is restricted. Tank vents seem to operate fine blew air through them, ran the same with the fuel cap off. Hooked the line from the filter to a gallon jug of gas in the nose, maybe a slight improvement but still not it. Sucked the gallon jug in so the fuel pump is good. It Idles and runs so good up to 4000 rpm I just don't know what else it could be.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[brock1]

whats the valve on the wtarer box set at on your ski,,, also my raves are set about 1/8 inch down from the top and my water box valve is set flush with the top

 

[bigJake]

I should restate my rpms, starting from an idle and gunning it, it will jump right up to 5000rpm sputter for a second and settle around 4000rpm. Starting out slow it will just climb to 4000rpms. On the hose I was just blipping the throttle and it would hit 7k, but I didn't hold it there. Can I run the rpms up on the hose with out damage?

Thanks, Jeff

You want to limit running on the hose to a couple minutes. The Carbon Seal seal on the driveshaft is not cooled when the ski is running on the hose and will wear.

I didn't see that we had you remove the spark plug boot from the plug wires and cut back the wires about 1/4 inch to make sure you are getting a good spark, although this doesn't really seem like a spark problem, let's just cover all the bases.

Any mode the unreadable info center could be in to limit RPMs?

No.

Hooked the line from the filter to a gallon jug of gas in the nose, maybe a slight improvement but still not it. Sucked the gallon jug in so the fuel pump is good. It Idles and runs so good up to 4000 rpm I just don't know what else it could be.

Do you mean you by-passed the under hood fuel filter? Since you put an additional in-line filter in I'd be inclined to try removing the filter from the bowl under the hood. I know you said it was cleaned but you also say you are running on reserve which means you may be sucking crap off the bottom of the tank. that happened to me a couple months ago, I ran on reserve and plugged the fuel filter.

Have you tried it WITHOUT the extra inline filter you installed? if they are not big enough you won't get enough fuel.
Stupid question, but we all make mistakes - are you sure you didn't install the extra inline filter backwards?

Did you do the test for A/C voltage on the battery to check for a bad rectifier?

 

[dirt_farmer]

whats the valve on the wtarer box set at on your ski,,, also my raves are set about 1/8 inch down from the top and my water box valve is set flush with the top

Both raves and the water box are flush with the top.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[dirt_farmer]

You want to limit running on the hose to a couple minutes. The Carbon Seal seal on the driveshaft is not cooled when the ski is running on the hose and will wear.

I ran it up on the hose and it hits 7000rpm easy, but only held it there for a few seconds

I didn't see that we had you remove the spark plug boot from the plug wires and cut back the wires about 1/4 inch to make sure you are getting a good spark, although this doesn't really seem like a spark problem, let's just cover all the bases.

I did not, but there where fresh clippings laying on top of the engine from the last owner. Still something to look into.

No.

Thank you, I am planning to order the gauge face fix, just hoping to wait till seasons over.

Do you mean you by-passed the under hood fuel filter? Since you put an additional in-line filter in I'd be inclined to try removing the filter from the bowl under the hood. I know you said it was cleaned but you also say you are running on reserve which means you may be sucking crap off the bottom of the tank. that happened to me a couple months ago, I ran on reserve and plugged the fuel filter.

Have you tried it WITHOUT the extra inline filter you installed? if they are not big enough you won't get enough fuel.
Stupid question, but we all make mistakes - are you sure you didn't install the extra inline filter backwards?

Yes I bypassed the under hood filter and selector valve. The hose went from the fuel jug to my added filter then to the carbs. I have thought about loosing the oem filter but it is still clean right now.

I have not tried to run it with out my extra filter except before I did any service to it. It is the largest filter I could find with 1/4 fittings, larger then the factory filter. I am 99% sure the arrow is pointing toward the carbs. There is also an extra filter in the return line a po must have installed thinking it was the feed. Thinking about it now, it could be restricting the return and causing to much fuel pressure and flooding at high rpms. I'll get some more hose and loose the return filter and rest of the grey hose.

Did you do the test for A/C voltage on the battery to check for a bad rectifier?

Yes, meter read 0 on the ac setting

Thanks, Jeff

 

[bigJake]

that filter the PO added is definately something to look into. If he got it on backward, that could be yoru problem. Hope that's it cause I think we've pretty much touched on everything. Let us know.

 

[LouDoo]

I know I got in late on this thread, and maybe I missed something. But have you checked your compression? I've seen engines with low compression run fine on the trailer, but run badly in the water.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

I know I got in late on this thread, and maybe I missed something. But have you checked your compression? I've seen engines with low compression run fine on the trailer, but run badly in the water.

Lou

yea Lou, he's got perfect compression. I think we've hit about all the basics including the rectifier. Could it maybe be an air leak around the carbs?

 

[dirt_farmer]

Well I gave up on it for this year. Drug it home to winterize and now my starter won't crank. I put some stabil in the fuel tank and poured rv antifreeze in the head untill pink came out the exhaust. I'll pull the plugs and spray some fogging oil in and spin the engine over by hand.

Thanks for all the help, Jeff