New Guy, with a New-to-me 1994 Seadoo Spx

[Jetskigoodies]

I hate to tell you this now, after you cleaned the tank all up. Your spx is in the recall for the gas tank. If you take it to a seadoo dealership, they will replace it with a new one. The fill neck has a tendancy to crack, your hull will fill with fuems then the spark from your starter can create an explosion. So go get that new tank.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

I hate to tell you this now, after you cleaned the tank all up. Your spx is in the recall for the gas tank. If you take it to a seadoo dealership, they will replace it with a new one. The fill neck has a tendancy to crack, your hull will fill with fuems then the spark from your starter can create an explosion. So go get that new tank.

Wow ... Thanks for the heads up ... I just called my local dealer and they ran the HIN, and it looks like this recall hasn't been done yet so they have put the order in for a new tank for me, and said it should be there in a couple days. Glad I found out about this now instead of after I had it all back together.

:cheers:

 

[kicker]

Good catch JSG.

Tex, That hull cleaned up pretty good.

Before you install your new tank check your fuel baffle if the fuel float actually floats and also has the magnets attached still. If you want a gauge that works (some people dont care if it does) it is usually a $13 fix for a new float.

Put an ohm meter on it before you order the float to make sure the fuse inside the baffle is not blown.

Your reading should be from 30 ish (empty)to 80 ohm (full) just slide the float with the magnets up and down the baffle to see the different readings.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Good catch JSG.

Tex, That hull cleaned up pretty good.

Before you install your new tank check your fuel baffle if the fuel float actually floats and also has the magnets attached still. If you want a gauge that works (some people dont care if it does) it is usually a $13 fix for a new float.

Put an ohm meter on it before you order the float to make sure the fuse inside the baffle is not blown.

Your reading should be from 30 ish (empty)to 80 ohm (full) just slide the float with the magnets up and down the baffle to see the different readings.

The hull cleaned up a lot better then I thought it would ... it's not perfect but its a lot better then it was before.

Its funny you should mention the fuel baffle and float, because I was watching videos last night on this very topic and I figured it would be a good thing to check before I put it all back together, and since I am now waiting on a new tank from the dealer, there is no time like the present to take a look at it.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Update...

Well last night I was able to clean up and rebuild the carbs and get them back in tip top shape ... and here is some of the carnage pics ....

Old vs. New ...

And this is the best pic I could get of the filters ... I imagine the build up in the bottoms of the filters is one of the reasons that the grey fuel lines are no good...

Carb 1:

Carb 2:

and on a more positive note ... Look what came in today ... no charge, under the recall ... thanks again to Jetskigoodies for the heads up.

 

[kicker]

Nice tank!!! Mine should be in next week but the dealer told me that he had to do the installation and wants me to bring the ski to him. What a PITA. My ski looks like yours except with the motor in it, but nothing else. No fuel lines, exhaust, electronic, oil tank etc. All they will end up doing is open the hood and lay it in there.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Nice tank!!! Mine should be in next week but the dealer told me that he had to do the installation and wants me to bring the ski to him. What a PITA. My ski looks like yours except with the motor in it, but nothing else. No fuel lines, exhaust, electronic, oil tank etc. All they will end up doing is open the hood and lay it in there.

Ya I had to do a little convincing to let them just swap me tanks ... but in the end they said they were swamped and this would be the better way to do it.

I am pretty sure they are filing the paper work as if they had installed it so that they get paid from Bombardier for the install aswell.

Oh well all that matters to me is I have it and things are starting to come together for me .... However I am taking this weekend off to go up to the cottage and relax some so I wont be getting anything done this weekend, but the rest will be good for me.

 

[mashenden]

...and on a more positive note ... Look what came in today ... no charge, under the recall ... thanks again to Jetskigoodies for the heads up.
(pic of new gas tank)

I am lovin' the progress reports and pics since I am about to start a similar journey with a '95 SP (about the same, but with one less carb and less HP).

One favor... since you have the old and new tanks to compare, can you comment on any noticable differences, particularly around the neck (other than no crack)?

If something looks different, knowing that could help others determine if theirs has or has not been replaced yet.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

I am lovin' the progress reports and pics since I am about to start a similar journey with a '95 SP (about the same, but with one less carb and less HP).

One favor... since you have the old and new tanks to compare, can you comment on any noticable differences, particularly around the neck (other than no crack)?



If something looks different, knowing that could help others determine if theirs has or has not been replaced yet.

If your tank has been replaced, it would have a mould date of a later year than 96, also you can just call brp, and give them your hin and it will notify you if it has been updated or just call a dealer

 

[lamajama]

I hate to tell you this now, after you cleaned the tank all up. Your spx is in the recall for the gas tank. If you take it to a seadoo dealership, they will replace it with a new one. The fill neck has a tendancy to crack, your hull will fill with fuems then the spark from your starter can create an explosion. So go get that new tank.

Where can you find out more about this recall? Is is limited to this year and model or others?

 

[mashenden]

If your tank has been replaced, it would have a mould date of a later year than 96, also you can just call brp, and give them your hin and it will notify you if it has been updated or just call a dealer

Do you know if that date is typically engraved or on a sticker, or more importantly somewhere that is visible while still installed? While I plan to call BRP about it, in cases like this I like to already know the answer.

BTW - I really like your "committee" blurb. Rest assured I will work that into daily conversations at work.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

I am lovin' the progress reports and pics since I am about to start a similar journey with a '95 SP (about the same, but with one less carb and less HP).

One favor... since you have the old and new tanks to compare, can you comment on any noticable differences, particularly around the neck (other than no crack)?

If something looks different, knowing that could help others determine if theirs has or has not been replaced yet.

Thanks and good luck to you with your build ...

Well I had to give my old tank back when I picked up the new one, but I can take a look tonight and see if I notice anything specific with the new design. Although when they were sitting side by side on the parts counter they looked identical.

As stated below, just call your local dealer with your HIN(Hull Identification Number) and ask them to check and see if there is any outstanding recalls, they will be able to tell you right away.

If your tank has been replaced, it would have a mould date of a later year than 96, also you can just call brp, and give them your hin and it will notify you if it has been updated or just call a dealer

^^ this lol

Where can you find out more about this recall? Is is limited to this year and model or others?

I think it was all seadoos with a 9gal(???) tank pre 1996?? ... I just googled my model when Jetskigoodies mentioned it and came up with a lot of links discribing the recall.

 

[mashenden]

Where can you find out more about this recall? Is is limited to this year and model or others?

I'm told it applied to "most SeaDoo's from 1994 to 1996" and that it is a Service Bulletin that is safety related, which means it will not expire. To date I have not found any sort of number to use as a reference.

[edit] Also told Only the long rectangular fuel tanks from the SP, SPX, early XP that are pre 1997, and the GT, GTI and GTX early models.

All X4 style tanks 93 XP,94-95-96 XP,SPX,SP,SPI 97-99 SPX

And all T style tanks 95 GTX,96 GTS,GTI,97 GTS

 

[mashenden]

Thanks and good luck to you with your build ...

Well I had to give my old tank back when I picked up the new one, but I can take a look tonight and see if I notice anything specific with the new design...

Cool. Thanks again.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Cool. Thanks again.

Sorry I took so long to get back to you but I headed up to the cottage right after work on Friday and I am just getting back now ... but I did take a look at the new tank and I can't notice anything that really stands out on the new tank as an updated design, sorry I couldn't be more helpful to ya.

On a side note I will be able to resume the work and re-assembly of my ski ... Hopefully I will be able to make a lot of progress this week and get just that much closer to hearing this thing run. Stay tuned for progress.

 

[mashenden]

Sorry I took so long to get back to you but I headed up to the cottage right after work on Friday and I am just getting back now ... but I did take a look at the new tank and I can't notice anything that really stands out on the new tank as an updated design, sorry I couldn't be more helpful to ya.

On a side note I will be able to resume the work and re-assembly of my ski ... Hopefully I will be able to make a lot of progress this week and get just that much closer to hearing this thing run. Stay tuned for progress.

No problem.

I spent the weekend tearing into my project ski ('95 SP). Not good. In addition to needing the fuel work, it needs a new rotary valve and cover... then the bad new. It has a bad lower end - the rear cylinder piston arm is shot. Rebuilding the lower end is beyond what I am interested in doing. I'm not sure if it is worth spending the money on a rebuilt engine, or not. If it were just the engine, probably, but it seems like I'll need to buy a bunch of special tools too. Decisions, decisions.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Well I didn't get as much done as I had hoped this week and well this past weekend was superbowl weekend so I knew I wouldn't get alot done lol.

So tonight I was able to work a little on the ski and was able to change all of the oil lines with new ones and also change some of the water and bilge lines. Unfortunately I didn't take a lot of pics so you are going to have to just use some imagination until I can get to the garage where I am working on it and take some more pics for you tomorrow night.

One pic I did take was the following...

I know its for the plug wire support but I am not sure what the best way to go about straightening it would be? ... or is it something that I can go without... or is it something cheap enough that I would just be better off buying another one in better shape then this one. Your feed back will be greatly appreciated.

 

[mashenden]

My gut feel, having messed with one recently while removing my engine, is that it would bend back pretty easily. I'd use a flat blade in the gap to move it, or pliers. Maybe even hammer it against a flat, firm surface. The main thing is that it will probably need painted since the paint will probably flake off.

 

[mashenden]

[Deleted double post]

 

[BIGTEX2010]

My gut feel, having messed with one recently while removing my engine, is that it would bend back pretty easily. I'd use a flat blade in the gap to move it, or pliers. Maybe even hammer it against a flat, firm surface. The main thing is that it will probably need painted since the paint will probably flake off.

Ya that's what I was thinking too ... I just didn't want to risk breaking it if it was a couple dollar part ... I will try to straighten it up tonight and see what happens.

Oh and one thing that I forgot to mention in my last post ... I also removed the magneto cover and everything inside there looks nice and clean, nothing is rusted at all. I was able to do a couple small continuity tests to make sure that I didn't have any shorts but I guess I have to wait and see until I hit the start button to make sure that its working as it should.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Well after having my engine mechanic dis-assemble and inspect the bottom end I was able to start the top end rebuild. Problem I am having now is when I install the wrist pin bearings into the rod ends and install the wrist pin, there is what seems to me like an excessive amount of movement and space around the bearing.

After PMing Minnetonka4me and explaining my suspicion he agrees that the amount of movement that I am having may be a little more then normal. So after talking with him today, I got a digital vernier caliper and took some measurements and I would like to share them and get some opinions as to weather or not they are with in spec or if there is another set of wrist pin bearings that would suit my application a little better.

The measurements are as follows:

Wrist pins: 20mm
Wrist pin bearings: +/- 23.9/24mm
Rod ends: +/- 24.8/24.9mm

Do these measurements sound reasonable to everyone and/or am I just being a little worry some? OR Does someone know of another set of wrist pin bearings that would fit more proper into my application? OR am I just not using enough synthetic grease when installing the bearings?

Thanks to everyone who has helped me out so far and thanks in advance to everyone for their help with this.

 

[racerxxx]

Are you re-assembling with new parts? If so where did you get them and what part#'s did you get? Perhaps something was mis-labeled.

Are the wristpin bearings caged bearings or are they loose needles like the factory uses?

Caged beaings:

Loose Needle: The outer black piece and inner black piece are pressed out during install, note the needles are back to back.

If caged, when you insert it into the rod end it might be slightly loose until you put the pin in. The pin will "press" the needles outward and there should be very, very minimal rock. Now with the bearing out of the rod end it should JUST slip onto the wristpin and should be very minimal rock--like none. Did you measure the pin diameter on the piston? If that is bigger, then I'd say you have the wrong wristpin possibly.

Post some pics up.

 

[BIGTEX2010]

Are you re-assembling with new parts? If so where did you get them and what part#'s did you get? Perhaps something was mis-labeled.

Are the wristpin bearings caged bearings or are they loose needles like the factory uses?

Caged beaings:

http://tboltmotocross.com/images/B1041.jpg

Loose Needle: The outer black piece and inner black piece are pressed out during install, note the needles are back to back.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Sea-Doo-Jet-Ski-657X-717-720-Wrist-Pin-Needle-Bearing-Part-290832420-420832421-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqJ,!lgE8h9-Zn0fBP,i)T5zCQ~~60_35.JPG

If caged, when you insert it into the rod end it might be slightly loose until you put the pin in. The pin will "press" the needles outward and there should be very, very minimal rock. Now with the bearing out of the rod end it should JUST slip onto the wristpin and should be very minimal rock--like none. Did you measure the pin diameter on the piston? If that is bigger, then I'd say you have the wrong wristpin possibly.

Post some pics up.

Racerxxx thanks for your quick reply.

They are caged bearings and I got them as part of my complete top end kit, the kit came with new pistons, rings, wrist pins, pin bearings, and gaskets. I looked the bearings over and I can't seem to find any part numbers on the bearings themselves, if someone knows if/where the numbers may be stamped I will check them and post them up. I will post up the part number on the kit when I get to my shop later tonight. Unfortunately it may not be until quite a bit later because the area I am in is getting hit with 15-20cm of snow right now . I will also try my best to take some pictures that indicate what I am describing because a picture is worth a 1000 words right.

When I put this bearing into the rod end there is a lot of space around it, I should clarify that the measurements I supplied of the bearing are with the wrist pin inserted into it. It seems to fit nicely on the pin just not so nicely in the rod end.

Do the loose needle bearings(OEM style Bearings) make that big of a difference? ... would they make up the difference in sizing that I am seeing?

 

[racerxxx]

TEX,

In this picture , on the tag, does it say 657X. If so, I think they take a different bearing than a normal 657.

Yep, just checked SBT and they call out 2 different bearings for the 657 and 657X. The rod must be the same as the 720's because that bearing crosses over to a 720

So now the question is, what do you have??? I'll see if I can find any dimensions online

657X/720 wristpin bearing

657/X--Read the first note

And confirmed again on their top end kit

657 Top End Kit

 

[BIGTEX2010]

TEX,

In this picture , on the tag, does it say 657X. If so, I think they take a different bearing than a normal 657.

Yep, just checked SBT and they call out 2 different bearings for the 657 and 657X. The rod must be the same as the 720's because that bearing crosses over to a 720

So now the question is, what do you have??? I'll see if I can find any dimensions online

657X/720 wristpin bearing

657/X--Read the first note

And confirmed again on their top end kit

657 Top End Kit



http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac150/BIGTEX2010/1994 Seadoo SPX/IMAG0054_zpsaab21636.jpg

These are exactly the links that I was looking at last night, as I was thinking that I may have the wrong bearings... but I was not able to find the dimensions for the 2 different numbers listed, and I never thought to look at the engine label. However I did plan on calling SBT today to see if they would be able to measure the bearings listed or if they had more information on them.

Thanks Racerxxx I will check it out tonight when I get home, do you know off hand or from experience if the 657x/720 bearings are bigger?